RTS Belt Tensioner Question

[Roadster Renovations]

The RT seems "smoother" throughout all speeds (but maybe I just wanted it to be)

Everyone seems to report the same conclusion so it can't be wishful thinking for us all. I think we all got used to lower speed vibrations and stopped noticing unless it was the really bad high speed one.

And you have to ask yourself, "Would prolonged vibration over time cause possible additional engine/transmission wear? I think the smoother the better for the components on the byke. (just like a out of balance wheel will eventually start wearing out front end parts from the shaking)

 

[Bob Denman]

new BRP version, I discovered that I apparently had the vibration all along, because now it is GONE!! :clap:
Yes, there is a whine because i have the older style belt, but it sounds a bit like a turbine engine, so it has some "cool factor" and is not so loud as to be annoying.

:congrats: :2thumbs:
As far as the whine: just tell folks that it's the Turbocharger spooling-up!

 

[jroberts650]

:congrats: :2thumbs:
As far as the whine: just tell folks that it's the Turbocharger spooling-up!

That's exactly what I was thinking. The first time I took mine around the block with the tensioner, I said to myself "Wow, sounds like a turbo on this thing" Lol! :thumbup:

When I don;t want to hear it, I just turn the radio up.

 

[jcthorne]

Actually, the lateral play increased .005 thousands in 200 miles. I have a video using a dial indicator that can be posted, so as the miles mount there will be more slop in it until it fails. In 50 plus years of automotive repair I have never seen a pulley application that did not extend at least most of the width of the pulley or was properly balanced with a bearing on each side. I got started on this aspect when a member reported that after a 20 minute 80mph ryde that the plastic pulley became extremely hot. Repeated times of heating up and cooling down will eventually "fry" the plastic and it will loose it's quality. Heat and plastic are not friends of each other. That is why we developed a double bearing pulley.
As far a the plastic arm goes, it might be fine for a time (probably as long as the pulley lasts) but with an aluminum it will never cause an issue or wear out. For those of us that are able to routinely take our bykes apart (even on the road) a part built to wear out and need replaced would just be an inconvenience. For someone that relies on the dealer to install this would require a tow and a dealer to get unstranded. Also, with the aluminum arm setup, only the pulley would need to be replaced if/when it needed replaced rather than the entire unit.
There will be some that will stay with the plastic and I am curious to see how long it takes for the first one to fail.

The
BRP tensioner on Louise F3T now has over 6000 miles on it and it runs just as it did when I installed it. No play in the bearing that I can feel. With the extremely low load on the bearing, the speed its running is well within the specs. It should last many years. At least as long as the rear axle bearings that are supposed to be replaced at about 20k.

So far there have been no reported failures of the BRP part and some have far more miles on them than I do. I know the Bakers are in the 20k range.

 

[Roadster Renovations]

The
BRP tensioner on Louise F3T now has over 6000 miles on it and it runs just as it did when I installed it. No play in the bearing that I can feel. With the extremely low load on the bearing, the speed its running is well within the specs. It should last many years. At least as long as the rear axle bearings that are supposed to be replaced at about 20k.

So far there have been no reported failures of the BRP part and some have far more miles on them than I do. I know the Bakers are in the 20k range.

.
The Bakers have rode 20k miles since they came out 4 months ago? Wow, they must constantly ryde.

 

[jcthorne]

.
The Bakers have rode 20k miles since they came out 4 months ago? Wow, they must constantly ryde.

They do. Charlene may pipe in. (Flamingobabe)

 

[Roadster Renovations]

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ler-Wheel-Kit-Belt-Tensioner-Accessory-for-F3

Actually, I did some research and they weren't available until the first of November. So, that would 20k in about 90 days. :yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes:

 

[Gary]

how do I order

doc Humphreys, I have read about your adaptor several time sand would like to order one for my 2015rts. but don't know were to go. do I get it from a dealer, or do I order on line some were.

 

[bcer960]

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ler-Wheel-Kit-Belt-Tensioner-Accessory-for-F3

Actually, I did some research and they weren't available until the first of November. So, that would 20k in about 90 days. :yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes:

when we went to the Nor-cal spyder rally last sept, we put on 7600kms in 15 days, so ya... it's possible.

 

[Roadster Renovations]

doc Humphreys, I have read about your adaptor several time sand would like to order one for my 2015rts. but don't know were to go. do I get it from a dealer, or do I order on line some were.

Gary, you can order the adaptor kit here: roadsterrenovations.info
We first developed and tested this kit using the BRP idler kit for the RTs.

We have since developed what we consider a more durable unit that can be used on either the F3 or RT. We have even made them to fit onto the existing kit for those that have already installed the BRP kit. If you wish our complete kit you will need to send me a email to: [email protected] and we will invoice you.

We are waiting on the custom 2 bearing nylon pulleys to arrive and then the pre-ordered kits will go out next week. The aluminum arms, the springs, and the brackets are completely done and are just waiting on the pulleys. They are scheduled to arrive either Saturday or Monday.

 

[ArachnidRyder]

As a recent installer of Doc's adapter on my 2012 RT, I can say it is a fairly easy install, assuming you are comfortable with removing the Tupperware. In the few test miles I've ridden, it seems to have completely eliminated the vibration. The whine is not very noticeable to me, but then again my exhaust is a bit louder than stock due to the secondary cat delete. Great product! Thanks Doc!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jcthorne]

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ler-Wheel-Kit-Belt-Tensioner-Accessory-for-F3

Actually, I did some research and they weren't available until the first of November. So, that would 20k in about 90 days. :yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes:

I
stand corrected on the time. Thought we got our first ones back in July but was mistaken. Our first order arrived on Nov 4. Louise bike has about 3000 since then and I do not know what mileage the others have accrued. Still, have seen no inclination of failures nor any reported on SL.

 

[irvin48]

Gary, you can order the adaptor kit here: roadsterrenovations.info
We first developed and tested this kit using the BRP idler kit for the RTs.

We have since developed what we consider a more durable unit that can be used on either the F3 or RT. We have even made them to fit onto the existing kit for those that have already installed the BRP kit. If you wish our complete kit you will need to send me a email to: [email protected] and we will invoice you.

We are waiting on the custom 2 bearing nylon pulleys to arrive and then the pre-ordered kits will go out next week. The aluminum arms, the springs, and the brackets are completely done and are just waiting on the pulleys. They are scheduled to arrive either Saturday or Monday.

you mentioned nylon pulleys. i thought your rollers were aluminum. or is this on the spring end?

 

[Roadster Renovations]

you mentioned nylon pulleys. i thought your rollers were aluminum. or is this on the spring end?

This was answered in another thread, but I will go ahead an try to explain. After several hundred miles of testing the aluminum pulley, it was noted that there was a slight scoring on the outside of the belt. Only thing I can figure is that the belt was picking up road salt, etc., and scoring the aluminum surface. We immediately went back to our supplier and modified the pulley to nylon. The dimensions are exactly the same and they will come with the double bearings. Look for the video to be posted where we do some experimenting.
I am still running both aluminum ones on the Daytona and RT. I am thinking it may be more cosmetic than anything. I have several of the aluminum pulleys that have not been used. If someone wishes to try the aluminum we can make that happen. Just know that if it damages your belt you are on your own.

Let me give you an example: The starter on your cage has a starter drive that engages the ring gear and starts the engine. What many people don't know is that the starter drive is a softer metal than the ring gear. The reason for this is simple; it is much easier to replace a bad starter drive than the ring gear.
And in this same way we would rather the nylon pulley wear some than your belt.

 

[irvin48]

nylon more melt resistant than the brp plastic roller? you had concerns
about the brp roller heat resistance. just curious.-- irv toms

 

[Roadster Renovations]

nylon more melt resistant than the brp plastic roller? you had concerns
about the brp roller heat resistance. just curious.-- irv toms

Good question. It isn't as much the difference between the 2 plastics, but the bearing placement. The OEM one has one small center bearing. Ours have two bearings on the outer edges. Their inner race is secured to the arm. Our bearings are shimmed and actually only have the tension as their only load. Heat will not be a factor on ours. Someone had posted on here somewhere that after a 20 minute 80 mph ryde the OEM idler was very hot. That got me to thinking about doing a better one.