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RT trailer hitch
- Thread starter Vegasric
- Start date
I believe the part number for the shaft (called retaining shaft) is 705 202 243 so I would say you should be able to order it. I too bought my BRP hitch off eBay without the module. While you will find a ton of opinions on the modules, I felt that there were several posts about failures of the BRP Module. I went the Show Chrome route. Slightly less expensive. You will need to tap in to a power source or, as I did, route power and ground all the way up to the battery. It is a 5 wire module so if you have a 4 wire trailer, you will also need a converter module. I put my converter on the trailer, not the bike. My buddy has a 5 wire system too so he can use my trailer that way. As an aside, I added extra waterproof plugs to the trailer module output behind the plastic to drive my add on LEDs rather than plugging them in to the bikes harness. I make my own added lighting. Hope this helps.
billybovine
Active member
Current BRP harnesses use a Hopkins isolater/converter. So if you have the "Y" connecter. Then get the rest from a trailer, auto parts store or online. Build your own.
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
AXEL SHAFT
.......Since I have built a few Hitches.....I know for a fact that a 5/8 th " threaded rod fits perfectly in the OEM axel........a heck of a less expensive than an OEM part.....You can get them at Home Depot or Lowe's......probably most Auto parts stores too, but they would be twice the price ..........Mike :thumbup:
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
WHAAAAAAAAAAAT
." Shear strength "....really :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack: ......So you think pulling a MAX loaded 400 lb trailer THAT IS ON WHEELS ........could possibly shear a non-cold rolled 5/8 th threaded rod. Well I have pulled my 3,500 lb Toyt pk-up using that " non-cold rolled rod " and guess what it " DIDN'T SHEAR ".......I just love people who come on this or any internet site and SCARE people with their NON - KNOWLEDGE. Do you even know if the BRP item is in fact COLD - ROLLED steel ???????..........I firmly believe that " Knowledge is Power " but a little Knowledge can be down right dangerous. Of course this is JMHO.......Mike :thumbup:
fjray
New member
Well sir I figured you would be the first to post up with an opposing opinion. Just because it can be done doesn't mean it should be done. We have no way of measuring the shock loads being placed on the hitch components so I'm just saying using the best quality components makes sense for safety for all concerned. the intent is not to scare but to educate those who may not know the difference in materials. I realize you have been doing what you do for a long time and not wanting to blow my own horn but I have been a professional mechanic and fabricator for over 50 years so I have a fair bit of knowledge myself. Opinions are just like belly buttons or a$$holes, we all have one and are allowed to pontificate as we see fit. Just don't expect it to be confused with fact.
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
NON - TIFF
I posted my answer to your question / problem, with an alternative to the OVERPRICED - OEM Hitch rod.....I don't give advice or recommend anything lightly.....I treat my advice as a Moral responsibility to give good counsel.....My answer to the NAYSAYER was just that .... an INFORMED response ....unlike what goes on - on say FACEBOOK...A couple years ago I put JBL 2 OHM speakers in my RT, and they are Fantastic ......I was immediately bombarded with criticism from some ALLEGED EXPERTS who stated the following .....your going to FRY your Harness or FRY the Radio or Melt the entire Spyder ....Because this CAN"T BE DONE......Well before I did the swap I consulted with an engineer at JBL and He assured me that not only was this going to work ....IT WOULDN'T HARM anything .....But He wasn't a Spyderlover EXPERT......:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:......I'll bet the naysayers here have scared a lot of Spyderlovers here to be afraid to do this SWAP ......All four speakers can be had for Approx. $ 100.00 ( you do the install ) .... Sorry for the Rant, but I don't like it when false info is thrown out with the only outcome being people get scared...........Mike :bbq:
M109Dreamer
Active member
Our JBL speakers have been fine. Haven't had any issues with ours either.
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IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
There is no shear load on the rod, is there? The hitch brackets go over the axle nuts on each side which provides the pulling connection. All the threaded rod does is hold the two brackets tight to the swing arm hence all it sees is tension, no shear. In fact, without doing the necessary calculations to know for certain, I think a 3/8" all thread would be plenty strong to hold the brackets on.Well sir I figured you would be the first to post up with an opposing opinion. Just because it can be done doesn't mean it should be done. We have no way of measuring the shock loads being placed on the hitch components so I'm just saying using the best quality components makes sense for safety for all concerned. the intent is not to scare but to educate those who may not know the difference in materials. I realize you have been doing what you do for a long time and not wanting to blow my own horn but I have been a professional mechanic and fabricator for over 50 years so I have a fair bit of knowledge myself. Opinions are just like belly buttons or a$$holes, we all have one and are allowed to pontificate as we see fit. Just don't expect it to be confused with fact.
As far as the shock loads, which I agree can be severe, the most vulnerable part of the design is the four bolts that hold the U bar to the brackets. The brackets are channel shaped and cup the swing arm so there is a fair amount of bearing area for them to hold against the vertical shock loads.
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