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RT trailer hitch

Vegasric

New member
Any info would be great
bought a used hitch for 2015 RTL from e-bay seller made mention of wiring harness was cut didn't state it was the module so close to housing can't splice
Also missing the axle shaft can these items be purchased separately
Thank you
 
I believe the part number for the shaft (called retaining shaft) is 705 202 243 so I would say you should be able to order it. I too bought my BRP hitch off eBay without the module. While you will find a ton of opinions on the modules, I felt that there were several posts about failures of the BRP Module. I went the Show Chrome route. Slightly less expensive. You will need to tap in to a power source or, as I did, route power and ground all the way up to the battery. It is a 5 wire module so if you have a 4 wire trailer, you will also need a converter module. I put my converter on the trailer, not the bike. My buddy has a 5 wire system too so he can use my trailer that way. As an aside, I added extra waterproof plugs to the trailer module output behind the plastic to drive my add on LEDs rather than plugging them in to the bikes harness. I make my own added lighting. Hope this helps.
 
Current BRP harnesses use a Hopkins isolater/converter. So if you have the "Y" connecter. Then get the rest from a trailer, auto parts store or online. Build your own.
 
AXEL SHAFT

Any info would be great
bought a used hitch for 2015 RTL from e-bay seller made mention of wiring harness was cut didn't state it was the module so close to housing can't splice
Also missing the axle shaft can these items be purchased separately
Thank you
.......Since I have built a few Hitches.....I know for a fact that a 5/8 th " threaded rod fits perfectly in the OEM axel........a heck of a less expensive than an OEM part.....You can get them at Home Depot or Lowe's......probably most Auto parts stores too, but they would be twice the price ..........Mike :thumbup:
 
I would hesitate to use the ready rod sold at the big box stores. It won't have the shear strength of good cold rolled stock. I've had the threaded rod fail under those applications

It would be nice if somebody offered a properly mounted hitch for the Spyder.
 
WHAAAAAAAAAAAT

I would hesitate to use the ready rod sold at the big box stores. It won't have the shear strength of good cold rolled stock. I've had the threaded rod fail under those applications

It would be nice if somebody offered a properly mounted hitch for the Spyder.
." Shear strength "....really :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack: ......So you think pulling a MAX loaded 400 lb trailer THAT IS ON WHEELS ........could possibly shear a non-cold rolled 5/8 th threaded rod. Well I have pulled my 3,500 lb Toyt pk-up using that " non-cold rolled rod " and guess what it " DIDN'T SHEAR ".......I just love people who come on this or any internet site and SCARE people with their NON - KNOWLEDGE. Do you even know if the BRP item is in fact COLD - ROLLED steel ???????..........I firmly believe that " Knowledge is Power " but a little Knowledge can be down right dangerous. Of course this is JMHO.......Mike :thumbup:
 
Well sir I figured you would be the first to post up with an opposing opinion. Just because it can be done doesn't mean it should be done. We have no way of measuring the shock loads being placed on the hitch components so I'm just saying using the best quality components makes sense for safety for all concerned. the intent is not to scare but to educate those who may not know the difference in materials. I realize you have been doing what you do for a long time and not wanting to blow my own horn but I have been a professional mechanic and fabricator for over 50 years so I have a fair bit of knowledge myself. Opinions are just like belly buttons or a$$holes, we all have one and are allowed to pontificate as we see fit. Just don't expect it to be confused with fact.;)
 
Thanks all

Sorry didn't mean to start a TIFF
Thanks for all the info. I to am a fabricater was looking for all possible tricks with least amount of cost and labor
Again thanks for all the info
 
I also used a 5/8" threaded rod and have no concern regarding the light load from a 400 lb. trailer load. Just don't over torque.
 
NON - TIFF

Sorry didn't mean to start a TIFF
Thanks for all the info. I to am a fabricater was looking for all possible tricks with least amount of cost and labor
Again thanks for all the info
I posted my answer to your question / problem, with an alternative to the OVERPRICED - OEM Hitch rod.....I don't give advice or recommend anything lightly.....I treat my advice as a Moral responsibility to give good counsel.....My answer to the NAYSAYER was just that .... an INFORMED response ....unlike what goes on - on say FACEBOOK...A couple years ago I put JBL 2 OHM speakers in my RT, and they are Fantastic ......I was immediately bombarded with criticism from some ALLEGED EXPERTS who stated the following .....your going to FRY your Harness or FRY the Radio or Melt the entire Spyder ....Because this CAN"T BE DONE......Well before I did the swap I consulted with an engineer at JBL and He assured me that not only was this going to work ....IT WOULDN'T HARM anything .....But He wasn't a Spyderlover EXPERT......:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:......I'll bet the naysayers here have scared a lot of Spyderlovers here to be afraid to do this SWAP ......All four speakers can be had for Approx. $ 100.00 ( you do the install ) .... Sorry for the Rant, but I don't like it when false info is thrown out with the only outcome being people get scared...........Mike :bbq:
 
I posted my answer to your question / problem, with an alternative to the OVERPRICED - OEM Hitch rod.....I don't give advice or recommend anything lightly.....I treat my advice as a Moral responsibility to give good counsel.....My answer to the NAYSAYER was just that .... an INFORMED response ....unlike what goes on - on say FACEBOOK...A couple years ago I put JBL 2 OHM speakers in my RT, and they are Fantastic ......I was immediately bombarded with criticism from some ALLEGED EXPERTS who stated the following .....your going to FRY your Harness or FRY the Radio or Melt the entire Spyder ....Because this CAN"T BE DONE......Well before I did the swap I consulted with an engineer at JBL and He assured me that not only was this going to work ....IT WOULDN'T HARM anything .....But He wasn't a Spyderlover EXPERT......:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:......I'll bet the naysayers here have scared a lot of Spyderlovers here to be afraid to do this SWAP ......All four speakers can be had for Approx. $ 100.00 ( you do the install ) .... Sorry for the Rant, but I don't like it when false info is thrown out with the only outcome being people get scared...........Mike :bbq:
Our JBL speakers have been fine. Haven't had any issues with ours either.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk
 
Well sir I figured you would be the first to post up with an opposing opinion. Just because it can be done doesn't mean it should be done. We have no way of measuring the shock loads being placed on the hitch components so I'm just saying using the best quality components makes sense for safety for all concerned. the intent is not to scare but to educate those who may not know the difference in materials. I realize you have been doing what you do for a long time and not wanting to blow my own horn but I have been a professional mechanic and fabricator for over 50 years so I have a fair bit of knowledge myself. Opinions are just like belly buttons or a$$holes, we all have one and are allowed to pontificate as we see fit. Just don't expect it to be confused with fact.;)
There is no shear load on the rod, is there? The hitch brackets go over the axle nuts on each side which provides the pulling connection. All the threaded rod does is hold the two brackets tight to the swing arm hence all it sees is tension, no shear. In fact, without doing the necessary calculations to know for certain, I think a 3/8" all thread would be plenty strong to hold the brackets on.

As far as the shock loads, which I agree can be severe, the most vulnerable part of the design is the four bolts that hold the U bar to the brackets. The brackets are channel shaped and cup the swing arm so there is a fair amount of bearing area for them to hold against the vertical shock loads.
 
Trailer hitch axle

I have taken lots of these off, never saw dents or damage. The shear stress is minimal. I am certain threaded rod would be plenty strong. I guess if you were pulling stumps it might be a factor Pulling a light trailer? Piece of cake!!
 
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