Rough Idle after engine reaches 3-4 bars

[SpyderWolf]

I looked at the paperwork and it made no mention of an update. The tech was not there when I picked it up, but when I dropped it off, I told him I was nervous about the DPS issues that seemed to pop up after the update to the update. I will go up sometime soon and ask him. It is running much better. :2thumbs:

Most likely the update was applied. Both mine and my wife's Spyders had the surging issue between 3,000 and 4,000 RPM and the update smoothed all of that out. It was actually called an Engine Optimization Bulletin or something close to that.

Whatever the case, I am glad to hear it is running better for you now. :thumbup:

 

[Wildcat48]

Rough running when hot

I figured out the problem why the spyders run rough when hot. Between the small enclosed space the engine is in plus the scary part. The way the fuel lines run that is the issue. The fuel line has only wire loom covering it to sheild the heat from the engine. The line running to the carb has a filter in it but no sheilding from the heat. The return line from the carb goes directly above the exhaust about 3 inches away and no sheilding. The gas tank only sits 3 inches behind the rear exhaust manifold. On old cars there used to be a problem with vapor lock which is what the engine sounds like when it gets hot and that is where the fuel smell comes from. The fuel lines need to be sheilded better. After doing some test I found that when the engine starts to run rough I stopped and found out the gas temp in the tank was 136 degrees. The boiling point of gasoline is 100 to 350 degrees. The fuel lines were even hotter.
On old race cars they sheilded the fuel lines with aluminum foil to resolve the problem with vapor lock. I started to sheild mine and I am starting to see an improvment I can ride further in hot temps before having an issue. My next move is to leave the foil on and wrap with heat sheilding wrap also adding more high temp insulation on the fuel tank I am shure would help the issue.
Its hard to beleive all the technology that went into building the spyder could not figure out this easy fix to many peoples problem

 

[boborgera]

I figured out the problem why the spyders run rough when hot. Between the small enclosed space the engine is in plus the scary part. The way the fuel lines run that is the issue. The fuel line has only wire loom covering it to sheild the heat from the engine. The line running to the carb has a filter in it but no sheilding from the heat. The return line from the carb goes directly above the exhaust about 3 inches away and no sheilding. The gas tank only sits 3 inches behind the rear exhaust manifold. On old cars there used to be a problem with vapor lock which is what the engine sounds like when it gets hot and that is where the fuel smell comes from. The fuel lines need to be sheilded better. After doing some test I found that when the engine starts to run rough I stopped and found out the gas temp in the tank was 136 degrees. The boiling point of gasoline is 100 to 350 degrees. The fuel lines were even hotter.
On old race cars they sheilded the fuel lines with aluminum foil to resolve the problem with vapor lock. I started to sheild mine and I am starting to see an improvment I can ride further in hot temps before having an issue. My next move is to leave the foil on and wrap with heat sheilding wrap also adding more high temp insulation on the fuel tank I am shure would help the issue.
Its hard to beleive all the technology that went into building the spyder could not figure out this easy fix to many peoples problem

The Spyder doesn't have a Carburetor it's Fuel injected.
And i doubt you can have vapor lock with FI.:dontknow:
And yes i would rap my fuel lines [Drag cars with carbs] and also run it though a cool can.

 

[COOLMACHINE]

Spark plug wires

my only thought is bad spark plug wires. Mine ran rough at idle and at take-off.
both wires were bad and arching.