BajaRon
Well-known member
This brings up an interesting question. What is the RPM that these rollers are turning on the drive belt? The belt speed would be the same for every application. But roller speed is greatly affected by diameter.
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Roller upgrade for Doc Humphries Vibration Damper
- Thread starter eddieshep999
- Start date
This brings up an interesting question. What is the RPM that these rollers are turning on the drive belt? The belt speed would be the same for every application. But roller speed is greatly affected by diameter.
SpyderJerry
Member
I had Docs damper on my other 2013 RT with the orings. The worked fine, I put new orings on each season and that was about 10,000 miles average. definitely got rid of the loud whining of the ribbed belt on the 13"s. Now the 2013 RT Limited I now have. i used the BRP tensioner with Lamonsters roller. I has a quiet whine, but not that noticeable. Very good combination.
T.P.
Member
The above Dunlop roller above has a max rpm of 8000, Better read the other thread posted from today. https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?132099-Belt-Tensioner-Roller-RPM-vs-Ground-Speed
Can anyone get a bearing # off of the side shield for a Lamonster big roller
T.P.
Can anyone get a bearing # off of the side shield for a Lamonster big roller
T.P.
ChicagoSpyder
New member
6202 RS
Should be good for 12,000 rpm.
https://www.micropoly.com/technical-information/maximum-rpm-calculator.html
BajaRon
Well-known member
Very interesting calculator! Does not take into consideration all variables. But it is a very good reference point. Thanks!
AY4B
New member
If you still have a "Roadster Renovation Belt tensioner installed on your Spyder, I would advise you remove it and put a different brand completely. His failed on me last fall and I had to replace my belt because it was damaged very badly. I was lucky to get home from the SITH Rally.
Grandpot
Active member
A word about Sealed Bearings: Grease as we all know is used to lubricate Sealed Bearings. These bearings are not "packed" with grease like open bearings (like in a tapered wheel bearing). There is only enough grease to provide lubrication. The seals keep the grease in and the dirt out. Grease also acts as on insulator. If a high speed Sealed Bearing has too much grease, it will overheat. The small amount of grease is by design.
Another issue is mixing greases. If you add more grease to a Sealed Bearing without cleaning out the original grease completely, you may induce a failure. The carrier compounds in greases are not always compatible. When they mix they may react by dissolving each other or drying and turning into a concrete-like substance.
More is not always better.
Another issue is mixing greases. If you add more grease to a Sealed Bearing without cleaning out the original grease completely, you may induce a failure. The carrier compounds in greases are not always compatible. When they mix they may react by dissolving each other or drying and turning into a concrete-like substance.
More is not always better.
RICZ
New member
I shoulda sed extricate the old grease, clean and repack, but not full - allow room for expansion. I did this when I had a machine repair biz, but the bearings I was dealing with revolved much slower than those on the belt tensioner. So it might be my idea does not apply after all.
ChicagoSpyder
New member
Good post Grandpot, and talking about to much grease and overheating I've seen the seals blowout under that condition, and then it's just a matter of time.
I've always been a fan of SKF bearings, and the good news for us Spyder owners with the belt tensioner is that the SKF bearing is rated for 28,000 RPM :thumbup:, specs at the Grainger link below. I'll be ordering the SKF tonight just because.
The other thing to beware of with bearings is that the ChiComs have a lot of crap out there falsely branded SKF, NTN, etc. so if you see a price that looks to good to be true, it probably is made out of chinesium.
https://www.grainger.com/product/SKF-Radial-Ball-Bearing-23Y196
redrazor
Member
What I'd like to know is: Why doesn't my 2014 RTL even have a tension/damper roller?? I have no serious vibrations or noises coming from the belt; but since I bought it used with only 6,500 miles
I'm not sure if it ever had one .... or not.:dontknow: Are there some (yr/models) that never received a damper roller.???
I'm not sure if it ever had one .... or not.:dontknow: Are there some (yr/models) that never received a damper roller.???
Deputy Dog
New member
ChicagoSpyder does that bearing fit inside the lamonster roller, and if so does is it just pressed in?
Grandpot
Active member
The damper units are strictly an add-on. Some folks have their belts adjusted right in the sweet spot, others never can seem to get there, so the dampers help.
redrazor
Member
:2thumbs:
T.P.
Member
YES, You can tap the old ones out with the correct size socket and tap the new ones in with a bigger socket.
T.P.
BajaRon
Well-known member
There are so many variables with this issue. Some people don't really care if their belt vibrates. It drives others crazy. Some vibrate a little. Some vibrate a lot. For some, the vibration resides at a speed that they run all of the time. Others get vibration at a speed that they just motor through on the way to their usually speed.
Some have adjusted belt tension and gotten good results. Others never seem to be able to get vibration reduced to their satisfaction. It's easier to install a dampener than to trial-and-error belt tension hoping to get lucky.
So, it really depends. It's not a 'One solution fits all' situation. The real issue here is why so many dampeners fail. And when they do they usually take your $300.00+ (parts only, installation not included) drive belt with it. The dampeners work great at reducing or eliminating vibration, for the most part. Getting a reliable one has been somewhat of an issue. With the BRP offering being, by far, the worst of the bunch, it seems.
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ChicagoSpyder
New member
It's the same dimensions as the Lamonster bearing, and yes pressed in. I like SKF bearings but ant quality bearing such as NTN, or Timken will suffice as long as it has an RPM rating that meets or exceeds the RPM's the bearing will be subject too.
I would like to add any roller bearing used in the tensioner should be checked for rolling smoothness at the 4000 mile mark, and IMO replaced at the 8-10K mark as it's just cheap insurance to keep Mr. Murphy away.
If anyone really wants to save money they can pull the bearing out, open the seals, flush out all the old grease and replace with new grease.....but it's been my own experience that grease seals don't ever seal and hold like they did when new, so for the price of a couple of drinks I just replace the bearings in my somewhat wisened days :roflblack:
