Replacing "Front A Arm Cushions"

[Spyderjockey]

I need to replace the "cushions" Part #706200181 on the front A arms on my 2008 GS and wondered how big of a job this is to do. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Wondering also if anything else should be done at this time while I'm at it? The left side is the side that needs replacing but I plan on doing both sides while I'm at it. I want to get this done before the long journey out to Spyderfest in April.


Thanks for any input.
Jim

 

[Big Arm]

I don't know what this is below or where it came from, but can't get rid of it![TABLE="class: gv, width: 0"]
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Send a PM to Lamont, he will be able to remove it.

 

[BajaRon]

I need to replace the "cushions" Part #706200181 on the front A arms on my 2008 GS and wondered how big of a job this is to do. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Wondering also if anything else should be done at this time while I'm at it? The left side is the side that needs replacing but I plan on doing both sides while I'm at it. I want to get this done before the long journey out to Spyderfest in April.


Thanks for any input.
Jim

I don't know what this is below or where it came from, but can't get rid of it!

It is a pretty big job but more time than anything else. Hopefully your bolts aren't locked up like Lamont's were. He had to cut his off and beat them out.

Mine came right out and I think your's will probably as well. It really makes a big difference in the way the Spyder tracks to have good tight A-Arm Bushings. Most people (including me) and I suspect the dealerships, don't lube these bushings enough. I do it now with every oil change. I'm using Amsoil synthetic grease. Can't hurt!

I like the synthetic grease because it is thinner and will get into these bushings better, yet it actually stays better than thicker standard greases. And of course, it lubricates better as well.

You're smart to do them all at the same time.

You may want to change the zerks while you're there to make them more accessible with a 45 or 90 degree. I purchased a 90 degree grease gun fitting (which is the alternative).

 

[Tx web rider]

bushings

i actually did this today was really easy
pulled body panels to get access to the fronk then took it off allowing easy access to the bolts on the a arms

jacked up the spyder removed the lower bolts and nuts with a little pushing i pushed the a arms out of the sockets and out of the way

removed the bushing and sleeve replaced the bushings on the existing sleeves and pushed the a arm till it re alligned pushed in on bolt ran a punch in the hole to aligne the other hole put the nuts on
greased the bushings and re assembled the bike

might have took me hour and half for entire job

I need to replace the "cushions" Part #706200181 on the front A arms on my 2008 GS and wondered how big of a job this is to do. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Wondering also if anything else should be done at this time while I'm at it? The left side is the side that needs replacing but I plan on doing both sides while I'm at it. I want to get this done before the long journey out to Spyderfest in April.


Thanks for any input.
Jim

I don't know what this is below or where it came from, but can't get rid of it![TABLE="class: gv, width: 0"]
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[Bob Denman]

Hi Jim,
Good luck with this project; please let us know how it proceeds! :thumbup: (And why not take some pictures too!)

 

[Spyderjockey]

Thanks for all the replies to my post. I have already put some 45 and/or 90 degree zerks on about 3 years ago.....but it is still a huge pain to grease the A arms especially the upper one on the left side, which is the side that has caused me to do this job. I have to believe there is a problem with the holes not lining up to allow the grease to go where it needs to go. It was always a real problem even pushing the handle down on the grease gun on that particular zerk leaving tons of grease on the outside of the fitting and probably very little inside the bushing, hence the problem I now have. I have always tried to grease these fittings when I changed the oil. Hopefully I will have somewhere as good luck doing this job as Tx web rider did. Thanks for the encouragement.

 

[BajaRon]

Thanks for all the replies to my post. I have already put some 45 and/or 90 degree zerks on about 3 years ago.....but it is still a huge pain to grease the A arms especially the upper one on the left side, which is the side that has caused me to do this job. I have to believe there is a problem with the holes not lining up to allow the grease to go where it needs to go. It was always a real problem even pushing the handle down on the grease gun on that particular zerk leaving tons of grease on the outside of the fitting and probably very little inside the bushing, hence the problem I now have. I have always tried to grease these fittings when I changed the oil. Hopefully I will have somewhere as good luck doing this job as Tx web rider did. Thanks for the encouragement.

Agreed. Design is not good on those bushings. I don't see how a good does of grease ever gets to where it needs to be. If I have to do this again (and I expect that to happen) I am going to look into modifying things to hopefully improve grease delivery. I wish I had taken the time to do it last time.

Looks like you got rid of your boxes. Now that's progress!

 

[Lamonster]

It is a pretty big job but more time than anything else. Hopefully your bolts aren't locked up like Lamont's were. He had to cut his off and beat them out.

.

The problem is there is no way for the grease to get in between the bolt and the steel sleeve so if you're unlucky like I was the bolt rusted to the sleeve even though there was plenty of grease between the bushing and the a-arm. There needs to be a hole in the middle of the steel sleeve. I grease my bolt up real good the last time.

 

[bscrive]

Hey guys,

I am new to the Spyder up-keep. How often do the bushings need to be replaced? Our Spyder is a 2009 with 14k miles on it. The front tires are wearing on the inside pretty good. I checked the ball joints and they are good. I checked the A Arms and they seem tight when I try to move them side to side or move the handle bars. Are they an item that should be replaced after a certain amount of time or mileage?

Thanks

 

[Tx web rider]

Hey guys,

I am new to the Spyder up-keep. How often do the bushings need to be replaced? Our Spyder is a 2009 with 14k miles on it. The front tires are wearing on the inside pretty good. I checked the ball joints and they are good. I checked the A Arms and they seem tight when I try to move them side to side or move the handle bars. Are they an item that should be replaced after a certain amount of time or mileage?

Thanks

try having the spyder on jack-stands under the a arms and check for front to back play on them that will let you know if there is play in the bushings

 

[BajaRon]

Hey guys,

I am new to the Spyder up-keep. How often do the bushings need to be replaced? Our Spyder is a 2009 with 14k miles on it. The front tires are wearing on the inside pretty good. I checked the ball joints and they are good. I checked the A Arms and they seem tight when I try to move them side to side or move the handle bars. Are they an item that should be replaced after a certain amount of time or mileage?

Thanks

Chances are you're bushings are still good. Your tires are wearing because of an alignment issue (Toe out). Could be A-Arm bushings, especially if the wear has come on recently.

 

[bscrive]

We just bought the bike so we don't know if the tire wear is a recent issue. I checked the bike the way it was suggested and the arms seem solid. I guess I will have to get an alignment sometime in the spring.

Thanks guys.

 

[Spyderjockey]

Agreed. Design is not good on those bushings. I don't see how a good does of grease ever gets to where it needs to be. If I have to do this again (and I expect that to happen) I am going to look into modifying things to hopefully improve grease delivery. I wish I had taken the time to do it last time.

Looks like you got rid of your boxes. Now that's progress!

I started this job today and ran into the same problem that Lamont did with the sleeve on the upper "A" arm rusted to the bolt (not surprising really with 78,000 miles on the Spyder and never had to do this before) and of course the way the bolt has to be assembled is with the head facing forward which makes it impossible to drive the bolt out because there is no room at the other end of the bolt to drive on it with a punch. I went and bought some Sea Foam Penetrating spray and sprayed into both ends as well as icould and in between the bracket and the "A" arm itself. I then got a heat gun and applied heat to the whole assembly with it hoping the heat would help to penetrate into the sleeve. It must have worked because about a half an hour later I was able to drive a screw driver between the head of the bolt and the bracket. I tried this several times before applying the Sea Foam and heat to it with no success at all. I had to leave things until tomorrow after I get back from another Patriot Guard Mission in Elmira, NY. I also have to get more of the pillows since the dealer only had 6 of them in stock, hopefully he will have them in by now.

I am thinking of drilling a couple of small holes in the sleeves to let grease in between the sleeve and bolt. I don't see any reason not to do this , but if anyone thinks that this is not something I should do please please let me know.

Will post more on my progress later.

 

[Rayelljay]

I remember back when I was in the design industry we used to take a lot of time in designing a groove network so that lubricant could reach all of the surfaces necessary.
The only thing I can offer is get the assembly well lubed during assembly.

 

[Spyderjockey]

I remember back when I was in the design industry we used to take a lot of time in designing a groove network so that lubricant could reach all of the surfaces necessary.
The only thing I can offer is get the assembly well lubed during assembly.

I agree with lubricating well and plan to but with the close tolerance between bolt and sleeve you can only get so much grease between these surfaces. I guess you don't think drilling holes in the sleeves will help. It would be better if there were grooves machined into the inside of the sleeves, I just thought holes might get some grease in there and figure they can't hurt. Your thoughts?

 

[NancysToy]

I haven't looked at this closely, but mine will be in for the same treatment soon enough, since I have two bushings that have never taken grease. If the normal movement is between the bolt and sleeve, it needs grease. The holes or a groove or gap would be the answer. If the movement is elsewhere, a stainless bolt or never-seize would be a better solution.

 

[Spyderjockey]

Looks like you got rid of your boxes. Now that's progress!

That progress by way of Lamont!!

 

[ulflyer]

Arm Bushings and Sleeve wear

Just looking at the schematic makes me want to know more about these wear points since I have a couple of grease fittings that don't easily take grease either.

For those that have replaced the bushings: where does the wear seem to take place? Between the bolt and sleeve (since it seems to not get any grease)?

Or between the sleeve and the two "cushions" on each arm that the sleeve slides into? Are these cushions metal? If so, does any wear occur to them? When the two cushions are inserted, is there a gap between them for the grease to, at least, get to the outside of the sleeve?

If so, it sure seems that a hole or two in the sleeve would allow a little grease to migrate down to the bolt. If I were doing it, I'd give it a try.

 

[Spyderjockey]

Just looking at the schematic makes me want to know more about these wear points since I have a couple of grease fittings that don't easily take grease either.

For those that have replaced the bushings: where does the wear seem to take place? Between the bolt and sleeve (since it seems to not get any grease)?

Or between the sleeve and the two "cushions" on each arm that the sleeve slides into? Are these cushions metal? If so, does any wear occur to them? When the two cushions are inserted, is there a gap between them for the grease to, at least, get to the outside of the sleeve?

If so, it sure seems that a hole or two in the sleeve would allow a little grease to migrate down to the bolt. If I were doing it, I'd give it a try.

I found the wear was between the sleeve and the cushion. The cushions are plastic or nylon and there is a gap between the 2 cushions so grease can flow betwen the sleeve and the cushion. I had one bolt that was froze or rusted to the metal sleeve so I drilled 2 small holes 180 degs. from each other to hopefully prevent this from happening again.

 

[otter28169]

I apply never-seize to almost every bolt I remove when working in my shop. I love the stuff.:thumbup: