Early instructions did not have a torque value. The gap at the top is normal.
Sorry to be a pain. But the area I need to see is right were the bolt goes through the bushing. It's usually easier, and better lighted, to take the picture from the outboard side. That bulge in the bottom of the bushing can be there even if not fully tightened. Although I would say the bushing bolt is probably tight enough, I can't be sure without getting a better look.
I must say that I am surprised that torquing the arm bolt is the solution. But obviously that is possible. Again, our bad for not including torque values in the early instructions. We never had any issues during R&D with just getting the arm bolts reasonably tight. But we did start having arm issues with customer installs and that is when we came up with the torque values. An obvious oversight on our part.
Next time I have it out I'll try to get an outboard pic. The bolt that goes through that bushing are what I would consider pretty tight on both sides.
So far tightening down the arm Hex bolt to 180 in/lb seems to have done the trick. I took it out and it hasn't made any unusual noises now and I've rocked it in the driveway and it's quiet (other than some spring noises but I think that's normal).
If you don't have a picture in the latest instructions of how that bushing should look, maybe include that too and where to look to get the best view? That would have helped me anyway as I was thinking you were talking about the split at the top for the longest time.
Anyway, fingers crossed that the arm bolt tightening did the trick.
Thanks for all your help!