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Removing Front Wheels

SpyderRider

SpyderRider

New member
Hey Friends,

I installed my ESI Day Runners today and was in process of installing the Fender Tip Lights as well and ran into a problem with removing the front wheels. I tried to loosen those lug nuts with a star wheel, my big Craftsman Ratchet, and a lug wrench and neither sides nuts would budge. I only have 850 miles on the RT-S and am shocked. Those nuts must have been hammered and welded on by either the dealer or BRP. Mind you I am not a small weakling, at 6'5" and 265 Lbs, I can usually handle the best of anything that comes my way. :yikes:

Has anyone else experienced this? :chat:

I was ready to remove, install, and reinstall/torque those nuts back on at the 77 Lb requirements but they are not moving...advice/comments! :helpsmilie:
 
Maybe....

SpyderRider said:
Hey Friends,

I installed my ESI Day Runners today and was in process of installing the Fender Tip Lights as well and ran into a problem with removing the front wheels. I tried to loosen those lug nuts with a star wheel, my big Craftsman Ratchet, and a lug wrench and neither sides nuts would budge. I only have 850 miles on the RT-S and am shocked. Those nuts must have been hammered and welded on by either the dealer or BRP. Mind you I am not a small weakling, at 6'5" and 265 Lbs, I can usually handle the best of anything that comes my way. :yikes:

Has anyone else experienced this? :chat:

I was ready to remove, install, and reinstall/torque those nuts back on at the 77 Lb requirements but they are not moving...advice/comments! :helpsmilie:
Click to expand...
Any chance that they are left handed threads?
 
The RT Spyders come shipped to the dealer with the wheels off. The dealer that put your RT together must have put them on too tight. I don't believe they have left hand threads, just too tight. Take it back to them and let them do the damage.
 
I believe that the Dealer torques them.I was told that they arrive in their crates without the wheels installed.:dontknow:
I removed the wheels on my RS yesterday without any problems.Call your dealer and ask them how much torque they used.
 
Nothing regarding tightening rotation in either the Owners or Service Manual...maybe another item BRP skipped? :hun:
 
You guys are right... I have been changing tires and torquing lug nuts for many years and I have never run into this. I mean I can't get them to budge at all! :cus:

To the dealer it goes on Tuesday.
 
Mine were just the opposite

Just over hand tight, I was glad I installed the ESI products just after purchased
 
Right to tight, left to loose. I just had them off and you are right. Some were on with an air hammer, some by hand. I got them off and torq them all to 77 ft lbs. On all my Euro car I have found the front wheel torq can make a unwanted vib in the the wheel. I always check what the stealership has done for torq on the front end. Now that I think about it Ev what were you thinking. lol. :ani29:
 
Last edited:
I spoke with Evan (MM) of ESI regarding another issue and told him about it. He said that they have run into this issue numerous times and he even destroyed a wrench getting the wheels off of SpyderWolf's Spyder.

:gaah:
 
SpyderRider said:
Hey Friends,

I installed my ESI Day Runners today and was in process of installing the Fender Tip Lights as well and ran into a problem with removing the front wheels. I tried to loosen those lug nuts with a star wheel, my big Craftsman Ratchet, and a lug wrench and neither sides nuts would budge. I only have 850 miles on the RT-S and am shocked. Those nuts must have been hammered and welded on by either the dealer or BRP. Mind you I am not a small weakling, at 6'5" and 265 Lbs, I can usually handle the best of anything that comes my way. :yikes:

Has anyone else experienced this? :chat:

I was ready to remove, install, and reinstall/torque those nuts back on at the 77 Lb requirements but they are not moving...advice/comments! :helpsmilie:
Click to expand...
..
Well I would suggest dealer or bigger ratchet or breaker bar Nuts have been over torqued common problem....Freebob...:doorag:
 
Well got them redone yesterday. Dealer swears not over tightened but mechanic had to tug down hard with a breaker bar to get them loose. I witnessed re-tightening with torque wrench. :doorag:
 
Thats one of the reasons i bought a torque wrench for wheels and drain plugs?
always had one but not sure of the accuracy on my old one.
 
Torque front wheels

Roger said:
Thats one of the reasons i bought a torque wrench for wheels and drain plugs?
always had one but not sure of the accuracy on my old one.
Click to expand...

What a lot of people don't understand about the right torque on the wheels with disk brakes. When someone over tightens the wheels, the disk brakes heat up and there is a good chance that you will warp the rotors.
 
woodchuck said:
What a lot of people don't understand about the right torque on the wheels with disk brakes. When someone over tightens the wheels, the disk brakes heat up and there is a good chance that you will warp the rotors.
Click to expand...

While over-torquing them isn't good, rotors heat up no matter what. They would have to get REALLY hot for a long time to warp. I just had a problem with my brakes rubbing because I didn't install the new pads correctly--- rotors got hotter than :cus:..... but they didn't warp. At any given time during a ride--- pull over and feel them and they will be warm if not HOT.


Another important thing to do when installing or removing these wheels is to cover up the brake units so you don't scratch the rims--- ask me how I know!
 
Firefly said:
Another important thing to do when installing or removing these wheels is to cover up the brake units so you don't scratch the rims--- ask me how I know!
Click to expand...

Now you tell me.:sour: Whats that saying, Closing the barn door after ':opps: xxxxxxxx :opps:
 
Tight nuts

I know the feeling. Be assured that the dealer's mechanic used his air powered nut tightener to tighten those nuts. The steel nuts bond with the aluminum rim where they seat when tightened. This is a charateristic of aluminum and softer steel. Do not lubricate the seat where the steel nuts come in contact with the aluminum rim. This high coificient of friction helps in keeping the nuts tightened in their place. The same holds true with the threads of the studs and the nuts. These threads should not be lubricated unless galling starts. That's when the two threaded parts, the stud and the nut, seem to weld together. Then a very limited amount of lubricant should be applied only to the first 2 threads of the studs before reapplying the nuts. Drive a little slower and get there safely.
 
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