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Removing Front Wheels

I was intending to remove my front wheels today to bring them inside (where it's warm) to install WrapMySpyder's new RT wheel wraps. Unfortunately I ran into the same problem as the OP had eight years ago (also new Spyder, 1800 miles so far).

Before I read his post, I mistakenly assumed I could remove the lugs with a normal socket wrench (as I have before with cars) and I fit a 13/16" socket to them, but they won't budge with all my strength and using a mallet didn't help. I didn't want to try any harder because I knew 13/16" was probably not the exact size and I didn't want to damage anything. Not being very wise on such things, before I go out and try to buy appropriate tools, what kind of breaker bar would you recommend? I look on Amazon and there are millions of them in different drives and lengths. Would hate to have to buy a 24" bar with only a 1/2" drive that I'd only be able to use on these stupid lugs. Amazon has a "Tooluxe 037003L 3/8" and 1/2" Dual Drive Beam Style Torque Wrench, Hardened Steel, 0-150 Ft Lbs" that is 17" long. If that would work, that would be pretty useful not just to remove these *&^% lug nuts but for other things as well. But is 17" long enough???

And what is the actual size of the lug nuts so I can buy a proper socket?

Thank you for any help. If this becomes too difficult or requires too many tools, screw it, I'll wait for warm weather and just put on the wraps right on the wheels without removing them.
 
Another point not addressed in the rebirth of this older thread concerns front tire rotation.

The tires are directional and if you decide to rotate them--they must be changed over to the other rims.

Most do not mess with tire rotation because of that.
 
John Simeon - 13/16 works great as the 21 mm nominal is just a tad bigger

The metric size is 21 mm on the lug nuts, but a thinwall 13/16 socket fits better and if you can find one with 1/2 drive and 6 pt you are set. Look for a 1/2" breaker bar 24" long, (I got mine from Harbor Freight) and you will have it to use with a 36 mm socket on the rear axle nut if you attempt that wheel change.

Works for me--you can never have too many tools:):)
 
Anything slid over the end of your spanner, socket drive, or lug wrench arm/handle that extends the length of the leverage you are applying on the socket will work as a breaker bar.... you really don't need to go out & buy a specific tool just to do this job - just grab a length of pipe of a suitable diameter or even a longish ring spanner that has a socket ring sized big enough to just fit over the end of the handle, slip it on the end away from the lug nut & push on that!! Even tho the ring spanner will be applying the push at close to 90 degrees to the original handle, it'll work because of the extra length between the pushing end & the lug nut - basically, you just hafta make sure the leverage is extended far enough...... :thumbup:



Now what was that saying??.... And who was it??...... :dontknow:

"Just give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I'll shall move the World!"

or something like that!!.... I reckon it was Archimedes - pretty sure that's the right bloke!! Very smart fella, for his, or any time! :2thumbs:
 
johnsimion, If you don't want to buy new tools for this, you're close enough to Capt Joe and Ann Meyer, I'm certain they could break them loose for you. They are Squared Away right there in LV. (Site Sponsors too)

SL Usernames cptjam or SpyderAnn01
 
The metric size is 21 mm on the lug nuts, but a thinwall 13/16 socket fits better and if you can find one with 1/2 drive and 6 pt you are set. Look for a 1/2" breaker bar 24" long, (I got mine from Harbor Freight) and you will have it to use with a 36 mm socket on the rear axle nut if you attempt that wheel change.

Works for me--you can never have too many tools:):)
This is good info. I couldn't get any of my normal lug wrenches to fit and my standard socket set goes up to 19mm. So, off to HF I go to get a 21mm socket and breaker bar. Thanks.
 
I have a 6' long section of black pipe that fits over my breaker bar for those very rare occasions my impact wrench can't do the job.
200 lbs at 6' makes 1,200 ft*lbs torque. Then I can also jump up and down, so....

:bdh:
 
While over-torquing them isn't good, rotors heat up no matter what. They would have to get REALLY hot for a long time to warp. I just had a problem with my brakes rubbing because I didn't install the new pads correctly--- rotors got hotter than :cus:..... but they didn't warp. At any given time during a ride--- pull over and feel them and they will be warm if not HOT.


Another important thing to do when installing or removing these wheels is to cover up the brake units so you don't scratch the rims--- ask me how I know!
Most rotors don't warp. They really only warp if you do a lot of hard braking and they get really hot then run thru a lot of water at the same time. Or you crystalize the brake pads and messages up
 
Most rotors don't warp. They really only warp if you do a lot of hard braking and they get really hot then run thru a lot of water at the same time. Or you crystalize the brake pads and messages up

Ford had a wide-spread problem with brake rotors warping on Taurus/Sables due to over-torquing the lug nuts.
:gaah:
 
HOT BRAKE ROTORS

While over-torquing them isn't good, rotors heat up no matter what. They would have to get REALLY hot for a long time to warp. I just had a problem with my brakes rubbing because I didn't install the new pads correctly--- rotors got hotter than :cus:..... but they didn't warp. At any given time during a ride--- pull over and feel them and they will be warm if not HOT.


Another important thing to do when installing or removing these wheels is to cover up the brake units so you don't scratch the rims--- ask me how I know!
:gaah:...... Touching the Brake rotors can be a really Big mis-take ..... they can easily get Hot enough to burn a couple layers of skin off, you won't know from looking at them how Hot they are :lecturef_smilie: ..... Mike :thumbup:
 
All you need is AIR

You will have no trouble removing the wheels/lug nuts if you use
a 1/2 inch air impact wrench, they are RIGHT HAND THREADS
if you do not own an impact gun and air compressor, go the your
local tire shop and have them use theirs to loosen them and then
torque them back to the proper amount.
I have seen this several times myself.
Dave
 
You will have no trouble removing the wheels/lug nuts if you use
a 1/2 inch air impact wrench, they are RIGHT HAND THREADS
if you do not own an impact gun and air compressor, go the your
local tire shop and have them use theirs to loosen them and then
torque them back to the proper amount.
I have seen this several times myself.
Dave

I'll vouch for that. Mine were removed today for painting by a guy who normally repairs alloy wheels but said he could paint my wheels for me. He removed the wheels (the ones that I couldn't budge myself) using a battery-powered driver in about, oh, 2 seconds. It looked like an electric drill or impact wrench. Probably just have to crank up the torque to maximum but whatever he did, it sure worked. As little as these things cost, it might be worth buying one for this purpose and then you'd have it for future use. Makes me mad because I have something similar already and never thought to use it! BTW, the threads are perfectly normal.
 
i WOULD BE

concerned that the studs have been stretched if they are that tight!!!!!!!!!!!

  • :banghead:

You guys are right... I have been changing tires and torquing lug nuts for many years and I have never run into this. I mean I can't get them to budge at all! :cus:

To the dealer it goes on Tuesday.
 
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