REMOTE FUSE BLOCK ADVISE

[coz]

What would be the cheapest way to do a remote fuse block in my trunk , to power a head unit?

 

[NancysToy]

The cheapest way is to build your own from components (fuse block, relay, fuses, etc.) purchased at your local auto parts or electronics store. I did that with Nancy's Spyder (although not inside the trunk). I would not do it again. For both my RTs, I purchased a wired fuse block. It's not that I'm not capable, but the aftermarket fuse blocks are more compact, have protected fuses and terinals with no exposed components, and have built-in relays. Wired units, like the Eastern Beaver 3CS, even have bundled or sheathed wiring, to allow them to be run through openings better. The aftermarket units are also more compact. If all you need is to run one (or a few) circuits, I would not hesitate to recommend the 3CS. It is compact and effective. I would also recommend locating outside the trunk somewhere, for less difficulty in wiring, putting it closer to the battery, and making it less susceptible to damage. You also can maintain the integrity of the trunk that way, helping it to remain weather tight.

 

[WackyDan]

Scotty is dead on as usual.

Don't install the fuse block in the trunk. This will create a major headache if you or your dealer ever have to remove the truck for service work. There are several places to hide away the fuse block on the Spyder that also stay mostly dry.

 

[bluestratos]

I have mine installed in the trunk and it is fed off a relay that turns on when the bike starts. I put it in the opposite corner from the existing one located behind the trunk liner and feed the wires through a hole I drilled just above it. I am not concerned about disconnecting a few wires if I ever need to remove the trunk, compared to all the time it takes to strip the bike down, unscrewing 6 terminals is nothing. I like it here becuase it is so easy to check fuses (open the zipper and there it is) and it is kept dry. A few years ago my other GPS stopped working but when I plugged it in my other vehical it worked fine. I traced it down to fuse block I had installed under the hood that had lightly corroded at the fuse contacts. It was getting wet by road spray, that is all it took.

I picked up a wire that runs to the heated grip warmer for the back passagener. It is switch on when the engine starts and off when the bike is turned off. The relay gets it's signal from here and the hot wire is fed directly from the battery with a 30 amp fuse in line before the relay. The switch wire that runs from the relay to the fuse panel has a diode in line to prevent feed back that could cause problems with the onboard electronics.

I have my Garmin Nuvi fed from a power plug that is fed from the switched power. The Garmin automatically turns on and off with the bike now so no worries about draining the battery.


Randy

 

[AndyIsRiding]

I installed my fuzeblock under the seat.

Depending on where the fuse is it is either switched or unswitched.

 

[bluestratos]

I did some testng and if I put most anything under the seat, even a thin charger plug, the seat comes into contact with it. Which model/year is yours Andy?

 

[AndyIsRiding]

I have a 2010 RT.

I needed to move the Fuzeblock closer to the side as the seat was touching it.

I am going to add an 12V powercenter to it, either tomorrow or Monday.
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brow...o+Socket+Power+Adapter+with+USB.jsp?locale=en

 

[bluestratos]

Amazing, I cannot even put a power cord under my seat with out affecting the seat. I have a power cord that charges my helmet to helmet interom system. I have to tuck it right next to the body panel or it gets pinced by the seat. Just a few inches out creates problems. I also have a trickle charge plug that is attached to the battery and it too makes it difficult to close the seat unless I poke it down in the cavity by the positive terminal. I will have to test a wood block about 3/4" high and move it a around to find where the best locations are for clearance.

Thanks,

Randy

 

[packbuckbrew]

With advice from Scotty, I also went with the Eastern Beaver 3cS. I chose to go with th sealed 3Cs, with 3 switched circuits, diode option, and waterproofed relay. Very easy to install and plenty of room. I used the marker light hot wire to switch on the relay. I also ordered the lead wires with the sealed connectors added, order with posi locks and you will be up and running in no time. I liked this set-up so much I bought a second 3cs with one unswitched circuit, it all fit, no issues. Highly recommend this product.:2thumbs:

 

[retread]

Amazing, I cannot even put a power cord under my seat with out affecting the seat. I have a power cord that charges my helmet to helmet interom system. I have to tuck it right next to the body panel or it gets pinced by the seat. Just a few inches out creates problems. I also have a trickle charge plug that is attached to the battery and it too makes it difficult to close the seat unless I poke it down in the cavity by the positive terminal. I will have to test a wood block about 3/4" high and move it a around to find where the best locations are for clearance.

Thanks,

Randy

Does your seat have the rubber buttons that should hold it off the top of the fuel tank cover? I've had to redo the buttons on my GS a couple of times, but still have enough room for the Battery Tender pigtail.

john

 

[NancysToy]

Clearance under the seat is much less with the RS than on the RT, and is even less on an RS with the Comfort Seat or an aftermarket seat. I couldn't even clear a comm cable end on Nancy's RS, but my Starcom1 Advanced comm unit resides under the seat on my RT.

 

[SPYDERGUY1]

not sure what the new year models are like but I have mine mounted under the dash display, lots of room to work, easy to get and and tons of room for expansion. 08GS SM5.