• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Regular or premium, that is the question???

It was an assumption.......that seems to be pretty much true......since your reference is only one person.
Versus what the manufacturer says, both with the Victory and the Spyder.
What is a "Victory builder" ??

" what the manufacturer says " ie. BRP can be deceiving ...remember BRP says - if you have a code or any issue - IMMEDIATELY bring it to the nearest Dealer ( preferably by tow truck ) :roflblack::roflblack: …...…… I have NEVER done that …….. Mike :ohyea:
 
Kevin, Rylan and Lloyd are the tops on fixing, rebuilding and hot rodding Victory motorcycles. Victory builder is someone that does the builds or completes the projects.

Carbon accumulation inside a combustion chamber......or exhaust ports......is most often due to the tiny bit of oil that leaks past the rings.
It is almost NEVER due to incomplete fuel burn, unless the engine has been messed with to make the mixture richer than designed.
 
I had a Polaris Slingshot for a year. It too called for PREMIUM. Premium is WAY overpriced, IMHO. It used to be 20 cents/gallon over regular, with mid grade 10 cents higher.

Anywho, I used premium until it was broken in. Then I tried a full tankful of mid grade. Ran fine w/o knocking or pinging under hard acceleration (something I don't normally do anyways). Then I tried a full tankful of regular. It still ran fine w/o knocking or pinging under hard acceleration.

My MPG did not drop going to regular either.
 
Yesterday, I ran a tank of ethanol free premium and found that I did get slightly improved mileage per gallon ( 2 miles per gal.); But in no way enough added miles to justify the cost of premium.

I will probly use premium in the heat of summer for long interstate travel - but otherwise it is regular for me.
 
Yesterday, I ran a tank of ethanol free premium and found that I did get slightly improved mileage per gallon ( 2 miles per gal.); But in no way enough added miles to justify the cost of premium.

I will probly use premium in the heat of summer for long interstate travel - but otherwise it is regular for me.

Yes, it is true that ethanol has fewer BTUs per gallon than gasoline (hence lower MPG), no matter what grade it is. Just like biodiesel has less BTUs than regular diesel.
 
Just for further reference, I stopped for gas in the cage this weekend... Arizona prices and octanes.

Regular, 87 octane. Midgrade, 89 octane, 30 cents per gallon more than regular. Premium, 91 octane, 20 cents per gallon more than midgrade.
 
Using 'new math', I believe "your" difference between Regular and Premium would be .40 or $2.00 per tank. I personally believe running premium in a vehicle 'designed' to run on regular (says so in the manual....) is a waste of money. But as they say, YMMV (so true.) I've run regular in my 'high performance' Yamaha FJR1300 for 91,000 miles and consistently get anywhere from 40 to 50+ mpg. Good enough for me.

I have a pdf copy of the owner's manual from my 2017 RT and this is an exact copy: "Recommended Fuel: Use premium unleaded gasoline with an AKI (RON+MON)/2 octane rating of 91, or an RON octane rating of 95."

Maybe you have a different model but MY manual definitely does not say it's designed to run on regular. Is regular safe to use? Probably. Do I care to find out the hard way if it isn't? No, for a couple of bucks a fillup, I'll use 91 octane. I do not claim to be smarter than the owner's manual and I do not want to prove or disprove that by disobeying something as clear as this.
 
Interesting read.

Here in Australia
91 Octane is the lowest for mowers and stationary motors and older cars that used leaded fuels
95 Octane is recommended by BRP in Aus models
98 Octane is premium, about 8-10c/Litre dearer than 95, but I use 98 Octane in my 2017 RT Ltd I get about 15% better economy
 
I have a pdf copy of the owner's manual from my 2017 RT and this is an exact copy: "Recommended Fuel: Use premium unleaded gasoline with an AKI (RON+MON)/2 octane rating of 91, or an RON octane rating of 95."
Maybe you have a different model but MY manual definitely does not say it's designed to run on regular.

This thread is in the Ryker section, so I would expect that your manual would be different.

Here is what the 2019 Ryker manual states,
Recommended Fuel
Use regular unleaded gasoline with a minimum AKI (RON+MON)/2 octane rating of 87, or an RON octane rating of 92.
For optimal performance, use premium unleaded gasoline with an AKI (RON+MON)/2 octane rating of 91, or an RON octane rating of 95.
NOTICE Never experiment with other fuels. Engine or fuel system damages may occur with the use of an inadequate fuel.
NOTICE Do NOT use fuel from fuel pumps labeled E85
 
Interesting read.

Here in Australia
91 Octane is the lowest for mowers and stationary motors and older cars that used leaded fuels
95 Octane is recommended by BRP in Aus models
98 Octane is premium, about 8-10c/Litre dearer than 95, but I use 98 Octane in my 2017 RT Ltd I get about 15% better economy



It depends on the way they calculate octane where you live. In the manual for the Ryker in the US it's AKI(RON+MON)/2
 
This thread is in the Ryker section, so I would expect that your manual would be different.

Here is what the 2019 Ryker manual states,
Recommended Fuel
Use regular unleaded gasoline with a minimum AKI (RON+MON)/2 octane rating of 87, or an RON octane rating of 92.
For optimal performance, use premium unleaded gasoline with an AKI (RON+MON)/2 octane rating of 91, or an RON octane rating of 95.
NOTICE Never experiment with other fuels. Engine or fuel system damages may occur with the use of an inadequate fuel.
NOTICE Do NOT use fuel from fuel pumps labeled E85

Soooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo NO Diesel then …. correct ….. Mike :ohyea:
 
My Rally and the lawn mower are the only vehicles in our family fleet that don't use diesel. If CanAm offered a diesel Ryker I would be first in line.
 
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