Recurring limp home mode

[jroberts650]

Hoping I can convince my service dept to try to get my a repair on the TB or TPS on goodwill from BRP. They did this when i had the scoops installed for the heat issue. Anyone have any tips on how to maybe obtain a goodwill fix easier?

 

[Bob Denman]

Bring Donuts to the dealership... :joke:

 

[jroberts650]

Bring Donuts to the dealership... :joke:

Lol! I'll bring 5 dozen it will help! ray:

 

[jroberts650]

Well she's in the shop now. Service said that with my mileage that anything to do with the TB or TPS should fall under the emissions warranty. Good news to hear. Was told that it would be assessed in the morning and will be informed on what BRP will have them replace. Hopefully it will be the whole TB assembly so I wont have to worry anymore about it. Bad news is, it probably won't be ready next week for our mountain trip so looks as if we'll be taking the car.

 

[Bob Denman]

You could ask them if they've got a loaner bike... :dontknow:
(It never hurts to ask! )

 

[jroberts650]

You could ask them if they've got a loaner bike... :dontknow:
(It never hurts to ask! )

I did but they looked at me like I was a complete idiot for asking.

 

[Bob Denman]

Sorry!
I guess that I'm just used to getting that look from The Missus... :shocked:

 

[bruiser]

Wow, did you decide to not worry about the fix and just trade up? Wouldn't it have been cheaper to replace the part?

Just saw this. A few reasons. #1- BRP would cover the throttle body itself, but not the labor to replace it. #2- Her windshield arm broke on the trip too. BRP would not cover the replacement of the actuator since it was out of warranty. #3- The wife refused to drive the bike back home even if it was fixed. #4- The owner of the dealership gave us a great deal on a trade in along with the BRP incentive. It was cheaper to go with the trade in. #5 and most important reason. I have to live with her. Happy wife happy life.

 

[TuckMiddle]

Loaner

About 16 months ago, had a lingering mx problem and left bike at the (since sold) dealership. Told them a loaner would really be appreciated due to repeated trip over two lingering problems. Two loaners over the next month, 600 miles on a 2012 RT and 1400 miles on a 2014 RT. So yes, do ask - ya never know when they screw up and actually try
to make a customer happy. :cheers:

 

[jroberts650]

I took it to my local dealer and dropped it off Wednesday amd,was told it would be 2 1/2 to 3 weeks just to be looked at. So I called the dealer I purchased from about an hour away and they had a slot open on Wednesday 13th so I took it yesterday and dropped off. So I should have an answer this Wednesday on the problem. Service said it could possibly be repaired under the emissions warranty due to the mileage or they would try for a goodwill depending what needed to be replaced.

Will post what they find soon.

 

[Desert Spyder]

Whenever I had problems on the road with codes I would turn the key off and on three times to clear the codes, pull the key arms length, and try again. If anything was really wrong the codes would come back...which they didn't. These things have been known to have brain farts. Maybe some would disapprove of my methods but its survival and no tow. Do the math.

 

[bigbadbrucie]

Pull the key

Whenever I had problems on the road with codes I would turn the key off and on three times to clear the codes, pull the key arms length, and try again. If anything was really wrong the codes would come back...which they didn't. These things have been known to have brain farts. Maybe some would disapprove of my methods but its survival and no tow. Do the math.

Yep. Got an orange screen yesterday. DESS error. Did the same thing. Pulled the key...put it back in and the bike started. Ran the rest of the day with no issues. Computer just needed re-booting. Why??? Any bodies guess. It's a computer. nuff said!

 

[jroberts650]

Whenever I had problems on the road with codes I would turn the key off and on three times to clear the codes, pull the key arms length, and try again. If anything was really wrong the codes would come back...which they didn't. These things have been known to have brain farts. Maybe some would disapprove of my methods but its survival and no tow. Do the math.

So when you do the key cycle, do you turn it quickly on and off or wait until the screen boots and then turn off?

I mainly did the sequence of waiting about 5 minutes and restarting and everything was good until I shut it off and then restarted. It went into Limp mode 3 seperate times in the same day so my best guess was that it had a problem. Not just a quirk.

 

[billybovine]

I have seen.

Turn key off and on three times, five times, six times.
Remove the key and walk away a minimum of 10 ft, 20 ft, 30 ft and a very strongly worded 35 ft.
Remove the key 5 minutes, 10 minutes, 30 minutes and 40 minutes.
Disconnect the battery and touch the negative positive leads together.
Disconnect the battery and wait an hour.
Never leave your key in the ignition and all problems will go away.

Bottom line it is all BS and just a waste of your time and effort. Fixing the problem that caused the fault in most cases will change the fault to occured. Turning the ignition off for 30 seconds may change the state of some types of faults from active to occured. Some types of faults will change state after a period of time. Some brake faults need to reset by a procedure. Some heat faults will go away after it cools down. There is no magic happy dance set of steps that will fix every fault no matter the cause. There is never any reason you have to remove the key from the ignition for any length of time or any distance to fix anything. What was the fault? What caused the fault? Once you know those 2 things then you know the best way to deal with it. Maybe it was a one off. Who knows. But because someone told you the stand beside your Spyder and dance the Funky Chicken. It worked for them. Does not mean it is good advice.

Sorry I did my rant in your thread.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

DOING THE FUNKY CHICKEN

I have seen.

Turn key off and on three times, five times, six times.
Remove the key and walk away a minimum of 10 ft, 20 ft, 30 ft and a very strongly worded 35 ft.
Remove the key 5 minutes, 10 minutes, 30 minutes and 40 minutes.
Disconnect the battery and touch the negative positive leads together.
Disconnect the battery and wait an hour.
Never leave your key in the ignition and all problems will go away.

Bottom line it is all BS and just a waste of your time and effort. Fixing the problem that caused the fault in most cases will change the fault to occured. Turning the ignition off for 30 seconds may change the state of some types of faults from active to occured. Some types of faults will change state after a period of time. Some brake faults need to reset by a procedure. Some heat faults will go away after it cools down. There is no magic happy dance set of steps that will fix every fault no matter the cause. There is never any reason you have to remove the key from the ignition for any length of time or any distance to fix anything. What was the fault? What caused the fault? Once you know those 2 things then you know the best way to deal with it. Maybe it was a one off. Who knows. But because someone told you the stand beside your Spyder and dance the Funky Chicken. It worked for them. Does not mean it is good advice.

Sorry I did my rant in your thread.

This BS line ( slightly different wording ) is what .....BRP ..... is giving out :banghead::banghead::banghead:......Mike :thumbup:

 

[Desert Spyder]

So when you do the key cycle, do you turn it quickly on and off or wait until the screen boots and then turn off?

I mainly did the sequence of waiting about 5 minutes and restarting and everything was good until I shut it off and then restarted. It went into Limp mode 3 seperate times in the same day so my best guess was that it had a problem. Not just a quirk.

About 1 second per on/off is sufficient. Key needs to be about arms length away to lose comm with the antenna. Wait for your headlamps to cycle off, or longer. Get off the bike and do the Irish jig if you wish. I did it once and it worked but I suspect it wasn't because of the jig although I am sure the CHP officer in front of me citing a driver was wondering what I was doing. LOL

I am no guru like so many are on the forum apparently. I just relate my experiences which a forum is all about.

 

[jroberts650]

Dealer called and said the problem is with the throttle body. Waiting on a call from BRP on whether to clean or replace the TB. And if they will authorize a goodwill repair. Emissions warranty is out so no chance there.

Will know before close today or first thing in the morning. :sour:

 

[jroberts650]

BRP finally called today and said they would cover the entire throttle body but I had to pay for the labor. Not too bad, I'm glad they agreed to step in at all. :yes:

Only bad part, it will be a week to a week and a half for the part to come from Canada but at least it should run like a new machine.

 

[jroberts650]

Dealer called yesterday and said everything is ready to go. it will be Tuesday before I can pick it up but I am so ready. No problems with the install or updating everything. Had them look at the belt tension while there and was told it didn't even register on the scale. They tightened the belt and hopefully that cures some of the vibrations in the pegs. Glad I had it done, that could have been a problem down the road.
Will update on the way it runs now with the new throttle body. Service said it's like a different machine now after their initial test ride to diagnose.

 

[Ron2andia]

:agree:For all we spent that should be standard practice...