• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Recurring limp home mode

jroberts650

New member
Recurring limp home mode, *** Update

Well, had her for 2 years and finally a problem has reared its head, codes P2620 and P1120.

Stared when we were about 80 miles from home and we stopped by a state park to cool off. After about 30 min we started up and was on our way when the limp home warning came in and the bike shut down. Checked the codes and it relates to the throttle position sensor. We let it sit for about 10 minutes and restarted and everything was fine. Went about another 30 miles and stopped to eat and after restarting she shut down again. Again it ran great all the way home after resetting for 10 minutes.

Is this the dreaded case for having the throttle body replaced? My service but said if the sensor is bad you have to change the whole TB. I had the scoops installed for the heat issues last fall and everything was up to date according to BUDS.

Any suggestions before taking it in?
 
Last edited:
FAULT CODE: P2620

MODULE: ECM (Engine Control Module)

DESCRIPTION: Throttle Accelerator Sensors (TPS) position

POSSIBLE CAUSE: Wrong TPS sensor position

SERVICE ACTION: Check TPS adjustment.


FAULT CODE: P1120

MODULE: ECM (Engine Control Module)

DESCRIPTION: Wrong Throttle Accelerator Sensor (TPS) position

POSSIBLE CAUSE: Wrong TPS sensor position.Both TPS position failed test.

SERVICE ACTION: Check TPS adjustment.

Now you know where to tell the dealer to start looking...
It sounds as if it needs replacement.
Good Luck!
 
Last edited:
FAULT CODE: P2620

MODULE: ECM (Engine Control Module)

DESCRIPTION: Throttle Accelerator Sensors (TPS) position

POSSIBLE CAUSE: Wrong TPS sensor position

SERVICE ACTION: Check TPS adjustment.


FAULT CODE: P1120

MODULE: ECM (Engine Control Module)

DESCRIPTION: Wrong Throttle Accelerator Sensor (TPS) position

POSSIBLE CAUSE: Wrong TPS sensor position.Both TPS position failed test.

SERVICE ACTION: Check TPS adjustment.

Now you know where to tell the dealer to start looking...
It sounds as if it needs replacement.
Good Luck!

Yeah, I told him the codes and he pretty much said that something was up with the sensor Or throttle body. He said he hasn't had to change but a handful on 2010 models. Do you have to change the whole TB or can just the sensor be changed?
 
I had both changed on my 2010 RT. These codes are only pointing the finger at the T.P.S.

Ok, hopefully so because I know the TB replacement will be expensive. I had read one post where the dealer reset the TPS with BUDS and all was good. Said the sensor didn't reset all the way or had gotten out of sync for some reason. Do you think disconnecting the battery will clear the computer and reset everything?
 
They reset the TPS on my 2010 RT by using BUDS. No issues thereafter. My main issues were hard starting when hot. No limp modes happened.
 
They reset the TPS on my 2010 RT by using BUDS. No issues thereafter. My main issues were hard starting when hot. No limp modes happened.

I the same issue with starting hot. I have a terrible habit of twisting the throttle about 1/8" and hitting the start button so it doesn't stumble when it is hot. Perhaps this is why I'm having a problem. Because I did do this 2 times before the problem happened.
 
I the same issue with starting hot. I have a terrible habit of twisting the throttle about 1/8" and hitting the start button so it doesn't stumble when it is hot. Perhaps this is why I'm having a problem. Because I did do this 2 times before the problem happened.

If you are doing a throttle crank and start--recommend throttle open all the way. It is supposed to clear out the gas if you are flooded. The EFI will kick in with no throttle if its working right.
 
If you are doing a throttle crank and start--recommend throttle open all the way. It is supposed to clear out the gas if you are flooded. The EFI will kick in with no throttle if its working right.

I just do that so it basically gives it a little has so it doesn't stumble and make it hard to start when it's hot.
 
I also had a spare key that I had cloned hidden on the spyder under the Tupperware beside the airbox. Could it have been close enough to the ignition to cause a the problem?
 
Ok, I talked to my service guy again and he suggested resetting the TPS sensor with BUDS. So I'm going to take it in and give it a try. If not he said that it's possible they could try to get a goodwill fix to replace the TB. Keeping my fingers crossed.
 
I just do that so it basically gives it a little has so it doesn't stumble and make it hard to start when it's hot.

On EFI systems the ECM determines the optimum settings for starting based on it's various sensors. Operator input is usually not required and can sometimes make the situation more difficult.
 
Not terrible

I the same issue with starting hot. I have a terrible habit of twisting the throttle about 1/8" and hitting the start button so it doesn't stumble when it is hot. Perhaps this is why I'm having a problem. Because I did do this 2 times before the problem happened.

But is a bad ( unnecessary) habit on fuel injection engines , the TPS and ECM will do what's needed if working properly. It's like the tendency for some to immediately rev the engine after starting it ... Makes you feel good maybe but doesn't help
 
But is a bad ( unnecessary) habit on fuel injection engines , the TPS and ECM will do what's needed if working properly. It's like the tendency for some to immediately rev the engine after starting it ... Makes you feel good maybe but doesn't help

Yeah, I agree. I feel like doing that has possibly got the TPS setting off and now it's causing me problems. Hopefully a reset by BUDS will get me going.
 
That's the same thing that started happening on my wife's 2010 RTS. And we were 700 miles from home. It finally went into permanent limp mode. It was the throttle body. She ended up with a 2014 RTS for the trip home.
 
That's the same thing that started happening on my wife's 2010 RTS. And we were 700 miles from home. It finally went into permanent limp mode. It was the throttle body. She ended up with a 2014 RTS for the trip home.

Wow, did you decide to not worry about the fix and just trade up? Wouldn't it have been cheaper to replace the part?
 
Back
Top