• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

rear wheel brake wear

Looking at the uneven wear on those pads I would say the caliper is sticking. Never heard of a rebuild kit for the rear caliper. Probably best bet is to just buy a new caliper.
How is the condition of the rotor? Any pulsing to suggest warping from that sticky caliper?
 
Looking at the uneven wear on those pads I would say the caliper is sticking. Never heard of a rebuild kit for the rear caliper. Probably best bet is to just buy a new caliper.
How is the condition of the rotor? Any pulsing to suggest warping from that sticky caliper?

The rotor is going to have to be replaced. Doesn't look that bad, but since I have to replace the caliper, I might as well change the rotor.

I took it for a test ride today about 50 miles, with very little brake usage. When I finally stopped the rotor was very hot, and that was without using my brakes for the last 8-10 miles.

No pulsing at all when I get on the brakes, but it just doesn't stop like it should.
 
Just to give you an idea of what your looking for once you get it all swapped....when I have my rear wheel off the ground and the spyder in neutral, I can rotate the wheel pretty easily with one hand on the tire. There is resistance but its pretty subtle.
Good luck! Gotta pull the wheel to do the rotor.
 
Still having rear brake problems. I changed the rear caliper, then bled the system. Did not install a new rotor yet, because I wanted to ensure the problem was fixed before swapping rotors. Would hate to damage a new one.

I took it for a test ride, and applying the brake one time when going 60, and came to a normal stop, not pressing the brake hard at all. Then I pulled off the road and checked to rear rotor. It was so hot that you could not touch it for a second. Both front brakes were completely cool.

After I got home and let it cool off for a good while I decided to take it for another ride. Rode it for about 8 miles without using the brakes, pulled off the road. The rear rotor was just slightly warm, not hot at all. Front brakes were completely cool.

Drove back home and decided to go ahead and bleed the front brakes. They still have the original pads with very little wear. I've never had to serviced the reservoir, because it's always been full.

Remove the calipers following the instructions in the manual, moved the calipers to the top of the rotor and started to bleed the system. Both calipers were full of air. Had to refill the front brake reservoir I believe somewhere between 3-5 times to get all the air from the calipers.

Since I got so much air out of the front calipers I'm thinking that maybe the VCM has air in the system. The manual talks about bleeding it.

Has anyone ever done it? I know where it is, but getting to it to bleed it looks like it's going to be a royal pain in the butt.

Any suggestions??

Thanks!

Mick
 
Last edited:
Back
Top