.......
I understand that BRP has designed an extremely elaborate and difficult means to check the oil, and..........
Still, there has to be a much simpler means of measuring the oil. Something that gives you a go/no go reading. Otherwise, how can you be sure it's safe to take it out of the driveway ?
Errr, NOPE!! BRP did NOT design this 'extremely elaborate & difficult method!!' This 'oil level check' method is something that's been around for ages, common to
ALL Dry-Sump engines like those in our Spyders, race cars, hi-perf aircraft engines, anything that needs to run inverted, & a whole bunch more engines that are just a little more performance oriented than your average motor car that's intended to be easily managed by the uneducated masses.... It just happens that BRP makes/uses these pretty hi-tech engines in a whole range of applications, & as we can see from the comments, some of them are in situations where there are operators that just aren't used to this quite smart feature of Hi-po/Hi-perf engines that lets the operator/mechanic know
AFTER each operation if the engine is likely to need any work before being run again - ie, hopefully in ample time to get said work done
before the engine hasta operate at the limits of its hi power/hi performance parameters next time, where the oil levels & supply to various parts can be critical!
However, the simple answer to knowing if you are safe to go or not go is to
ALWAYS Check your oil level
AFTER each ryde!! That way, if the level was good when you shut down last & there isn't a dirty great oil puddle on the floor underneath your Spyder, then the chances are it's still good to go!! :thumbup:
And Yes, you should carefully measure what qty of oil you put in when you change the oil too, so that you know you've got enough oil in there for it not to be a problem when you start it up immediately after the oil change & run it until it's warm to check properly that you've got it all correct & that there are no leaks or other problems.
THEN you check the oil level on the now warmed oil just as if you'd just come in from a ryde and make sure it's at the correct levelso you know it's ready to go when you want to ryde next! (btw, being slightly under the max level is generally safer than being slightly
over the max level - it has a Low or Minimum mark, which the level should be above when checked correctly, and a MAXIMUM mark which the level shouldn't go over - that's there for a reason too!) :clap:
And if, as others have mentioned, you check that level again once it's cooled for some hours after the oil change (****) & there isn't a leak or a puddle on the ground then the level you can see on the dip stick at that time is a pretty good indication that you've got sufficient oil in there to
start the engine & run it for long enough to confirm the accuracy of your refill yet again if you really feel the need!!
So it really IS easy if you do it right - just check your oil level when you finish your ryding for the day, top up as necessary, and clean up/remedy any leaks or spills!! Then when you want to ryde next time, look for leaks/puddles before you start, maybe during your 'pre-ryde inspection', and if you really hafta be sure to be sure, you can also look for the cooled level at (****) above; but remember, the correct oil level check & refill comes
AFTER you ryde!! :thumbup: