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Questions - RPMs, Control Cluster, Lights

ruthvofmc

New member
2011 RT SE5 AC
I have looked through the owners manual and can't seem to locate the recommended RPMs for shifting from gear to gear. Would like any recommendations to increase the fuel range. Here in Oregon when we pop out of the back country there isn't always a gas station.
On the digital screen when there is less ambient light the background is blue, I prefer the darker background is there a way to set it to the night blue as a default?
This one is more of a "picky rain man sort of thing" on the analog display the little mph designator is illuminated but the rpm is not, should it be?
When running with headlights in normal I am getting flicked at by oncoming vehicles, are they just overly bright or should I be asking about getting em adjusted? Folks I ride with if I am following they gripe that I must have my high beams on, if I lead I out run em (they are on 2 wheels).
thanks SpyderLovers!
 
2011 RT SE5 AC
I have looked through the owners manual and can't seem to locate the recommended RPMs for shifting from gear to gear. Would like any recommendations to increase the fuel range. Here in Oregon when we pop out of the back country there isn't always a gas station.
On the digital screen when there is less ambient light the background is blue, I prefer the darker background is there a way to set it to the night blue as a default?
This one is more of a "picky rain man sort of thing" on the analog display the little mph designator is illuminated but the rpm is not, should it be?
When running with headlights in normal I am getting flicked at by oncoming vehicles, are they just overly bright or should I be asking about getting em adjusted? Folks I ride with if I am following they gripe that I must have my high beams on, if I lead I out run em (they are on 2 wheels).
thanks SpyderLovers!
:welcome: & :congrats: I can't really answer all your questions, but most of the people here will do. Here are some of my answers:

Shifting- I have an SM-5 and I shift like I shift a car... when I hear the engine ready to shift, I shift, simple as that. Others might get technical and I want to see what they say so I can learn some...:popcorn:
Digital screen... I don't think there is a way to default that... It's light during daylight and turns to dark blue at night. Not much that can be done there unless you just ride at night!:roflblack:

As the headlights go, there have been threads talking about this, you can search them or someone will do it for you. Personally, between my LED's on the tips of the fenders, fog lights and TricFendz lights, I will get flicked no matter what so I just flick them back!:doorag:

Good luck and have fun but a safe rYde!!!
 
2011 RT SE5 AC
I have looked through the owners manual and can't seem to locate the recommended RPMs for shifting from gear to gear. Would like any recommendations to increase the fuel range. Here in Oregon when we pop out of the back country there isn't always a gas station.
On the digital screen when there is less ambient light the background is blue, I prefer the darker background is there a way to set it to the night blue as a default?
This one is more of a "picky rain man sort of thing" on the analog display the little mph designator is illuminated but the rpm is not, should it be?
When running with headlights in normal I am getting flicked at by oncoming vehicles, are they just overly bright or should I be asking about getting em adjusted? Folks I ride with if I am following they gripe that I must have my high beams on, if I lead I out run em (they are on 2 wheels).
thanks SpyderLovers!


The shift point for your gears is pretty well a "feeling" or "preference" thing. It all depends on the way you drive, but as a rule of thumb I try to shift at around 4000 rpm and put it into 5th gear as soon as I can if I am looking to conserve fuel.

The screen color is controlled by a photo sensor and automatically changes to the "night" screen when the light is dim. I assume you could cover the sensor if you wanted to keep the screen in night time mode.

The front end of your RT bounces around significantly and if your lights are aimed on the high side it will appear that you are flashing your lights to oncoming traffic. You can adjust the beam downward a bit to reduce this flickering light syndrome.

Finally, the RPM is not illuminated. Only the MPH/KPH is lit.
 
The front end of your RT bounces around significantly and if your lights are aimed on the high side it will appear that you are flashing your lights to oncoming traffic. You can adjust the beam downward a bit to reduce this flickering light syndrome.
It also helps to just leave them on high in the daytime. This is typical of projector lens lights.
 
same thing

My wife has the exact model you do and for the first couple of weeks we got "flashed" all the time. I then discovered the air shock adjustment under the seat and it had zero pressure in it. Pumped it up to around 60 psi and it put the headlight in the right plane - no more flashing and better illumination of the road.
 
From what I have heard the BRP recommended shift for our "performance motor" is between 4000 and 6000 rpm. Gas milage? whats that? Your riding a SpYder!!! :joke:

Joking aside your dealer should be able to hook up Buds and see your shifting points and suggest any changes if needed. This was done for many owners at Maggie Valley by BRP techs
 
They can tell through BUDS how you've been ryding?? :shocked: I guess that "Big Brother's" microscope is even worse than I feared! :gaah:
Oh... shift points! grab gears early and often if you're looking for fuel mileage. :thumbup: With the SE 5, I shift as early as it'll allow me into the next gear.
 
Here is what works for me on shifting.

I have the SE5 and like my shifts to be smooth and seemless--both up and down.

After clunking into first--a built in safety feature to let you know you are in gear :roflblack:--reverse does it also.

Throttle on--I accelerate to 4000 or higher and hit the shifter. You will have to find the "sweet spot" on your machine. Additional shifts up in the sweet spot. (Mine is about 4500 rpm.) I don't open/close thottle for up shifts. If I am driving below 60 mph--I stay in 4th gear. Over 60--I shift up to 5th. This give you a power band--as the Rotax likes the higher RPM's.

Down shift--once again I go for seemless. I don't like the clunking on the automatic downshifting.
Shifting from 5 to 4--I do it at about 4000 rpm. 3, 2, 1--I shift those down at about 3000 rpm.

I am sure different bikes will have different "sweet spots" as they have been broke in differently.

Driving this way--I get around 30-31 mpg average.
 
I've changed my ways for the better

Ever since we got TEDDYS original 2010 RT-S & even with his new 2011 SpyderFest EdDition RT-S (both SE5s) I was shifting when it "sounded" like it needed to be shifted, usually around 5000+RPMs. With almost 14000 miles in 11 months on the 2010, we were lucky to get between 24-26 MPGs.

I thought for sure that the 2011 would do better, especially with the smaller shield & more aerodynamic "wings". But alas, still 24-26 MPGs. After reading up on SpyderLovers.com, I noticed that Bob Denman stated he was consistently averaging 30+ MPGs driving like a grandpa in the slow lane, & he was happy with that. (pretty close to his words)

Well, i decided to modify his grandpa style a little, and am VERY HAPPY TO REPORT, we are now averaging right around 30MPGs as well. The only thing I changed was my shift points by short-shifting. Meaning, I still go fast, but shift right around 4000 RPMs all the way up to 5th gear. We by no means are in the slow lane and are still having a blast shredding up the twisties every chance we get. I just shift a lot more often than I used to, to get there. By making this one change of habit, I've improved our fuel economy by 4-6 miles per gallon & am on our 5th tank of doing this, with the lowest average being 29.8 (trying to out-run a storm.... Didn't work:sour:) and the highest being 33 .... So far:2thumbs:
 
They can tell through BUDS how you've been ryding?? :shocked: I guess that "Big Brother's" microscope is even worse than I feared! :gaah:

It actually makes sense to me. If I am riding my Spyder in a way that is outside of it's intended purposes, it might have an impact on a warranty claim. As an example, I know of some folks who would ride well into the redline RPM range, but deny it if they blow an engine in the process & file a warranty claim. Since BRP has some skin in the game during the first 2 years, they should be able to see if the owner have been abusing the machine in a way that would invalidate a warranty claim.

As far as shift points, since I ride frequently with my wife (she's riding her own Spyder), I find that I am the gramps of all grandpas because she doesn't accelerate fast or ride fast, almost never above the speed limit. If I'm not asking much from the engine, I find it handles 3500 RPM very well, so that's around where I shift & then continue with a slow increase of speed.

If on my own, I shift at higher RPMs because I'm asking much more from the engine.
 
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