Question for the seasoned one-up road warriors. Sway Bars

[spyderdave]

In my (limited to 8K miles on a 2020 RTL) opinion, get BajaRon's swaybar. I won't go as far as to say it will resolve issues passing a semi at interstate speed, but I found it stabilized my RTL in corners & curves, specifically curves that tighten or are unevenly surfaced. This opinion would be "seconded" by my wife, who commented on how much "correction" I was doing IN a curve (pre-BajaRon swaybar). Now my RTL gets a "set" and requires little, or no, correction; I consider it money well spent.

I would be quick to add that BlueKnight911 probably has a handle on the true "root of the problem"; the angle of the coil-overs on these machines. I just don't have the education in suspension geometry, or experience in fabrication, necessary to compensate for the factory set-up..., so I bought a swaybar.

Also..., remember that tire pressure is very important. Radial tires tend to move horizontally, or "roll over", because they have flexible sidewalls intended to afford you a softer ride. The lower the pressure, and the taller the sidewall, the more they will do this. If your running car tires, at a lower pressure than manufacturer specs, this has to affect your steering/handling; to what degree, I don't know. I put 16" wheels & tires on mine & am happy with that decision.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

In my (limited to 8K miles on a 2020 RTL) opinion, get BajaRon's swaybar. I won't go as far as to say it will resolve issues passing a semi at interstate speed, but I found it stabilized my RTL in corners & curves, specifically curves that tighten or are unevenly surfaced. This opinion would be "seconded" by my wife, who commented on how much "correction" I was doing IN a curve (pre-BajaRon swaybar). Now my RTL gets a "set" and requires little, or no, correction; I consider it money well spent.

I would be quick to add that BlueKnight911 probably has a handle on the true "root of the problem"; the angle of the coil-overs on these machines. I just don't have the education in suspension geometry, or experience in fabrication, necessary to compensate for the factory set-up..., so I bought a swaybar.

Also..., remember that tire pressure is very important. Radial tires tend to move horizontally, or "roll over", because they have flexible sidewalls intended to afford you a softer ride. The lower the pressure, and the taller the sidewall, the more they will do this. If your running car tires, at a lower pressure than manufacturer specs, this has to affect your steering/handling; to what degree, I don't know. I put 16" wheels & tires on mine & am happy with that decision.

Thanks for the compliment, :thumbup::clap: .... The reason " radial tires " provide better Traction when turning, is because the sidewalls " flex " more .... I've watched ( proprietary ) video's of various types of tires in action while the veh. is turning.... Radial tires will have a larger " footprint " ie. tread on the road surface, than tires with different types of cores..... The KEY reason auto tires work on lightweight Spyders is the inflation pressures MUST be lower than what would normally be used for a Car ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[pegasus1300]

Hi Folks! I'm sure this question has been asked numerous time, but please humor this relative newbie.

I'm looking to the future in taking longer rides. My aim is to have better control in high winds and maneuvering around semi's on interstates riding one-up (as opposed to tearing through twisties).

Is it worth the investment in a beefier sway bar (BajaRon more than likely)? Or, since I'll be riding solo, is the stock sway bar sufficient?

Since the investment compared to the cost of a Spyder is negligible, just go ahead and do it. I did ride mine for a year before putting it on but I also wanted to be sure I could tell a difference, I could. For all those reasons you said you wanted in your original post. I ride solo and at 70,000+ miles I wouldn't have my Spyder without a bar.

 

[bigbadbrucie]

. I ride solo and at 70,000+ miles I wouldn't have my Spyder without a bar.

Is that a “wet bar)? :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::thumbup:

 

[pegasus1300]

Is that a “wet bar)? :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::thumbup:

:roflblack::roflblack: Aw Brucie You're a card........ a joker. Actually it is so dry here in the west it doesn't get wet very often.

 

[bigbadbrucie]

:roflblack::roflblack: Aw Brucie You're a card........ a joker. Actually it is so dry here in the west it doesn't get wet very often.

All joking aside, after 6 1/2 years without the Baja Bar, I couldn’t believe the difference. Now my Spyder feels PLANTED on the roadway, and as you say, the price of the SwayBar compared to the price of the Spyder is negligible. First I did the tire exchange (got rid of the Kenda’s) and about 6 months plus later I did the swaybar....both are a must, just not at the same time so that you can assess the difference each makes.

 

[Mikey]

The beefier sway bar helps with cornering, wind gusts, and semis. Shocks will improve ride on irregular surfaces (bumps). Tires will improve ride, traction, and longevity.

:agree: x10

 

[Azbronco]

I guess I'm another contrarian. I think it depends on where you're coming from--I rode motorcycles, so the wind buffeting and little bits of sideways motion on 3 wheels is nothing in comparison to 2. If you want your Spyder to feel more like a car, then I guess the sway bar and tires would help with that. I don't really want my Spyder to feel like a car (I'd drive a convertible car if I wanted the feel of the wind with the stability of a car), it's already way more stable then my previous toys.

 

[RayBJ]

I guess I'm another contrarian. I think it depends on where you're coming from--I rode motorcycles, so the wind buffeting and little bits of sideways motion on 3 wheels is nothing in comparison to 2. If you want your Spyder to feel more like a car, then I guess the sway bar and tires would help with that. I don't really want my Spyder to feel like a car (I'd drive a convertible car if I wanted the feel of the wind with the stability of a car), it's already way more stable then my previous toys.

:dontknow: IMHO that makes no sense. A soft sway bar will cause the spyder to lean OUT in a corner. Every motorcycle I ever rode leaned IN in a corner. The sway bar flattens the spyder and makes handling more crisp. Replacing the Kenda plastic tires with good car tires adds to the traction and reduces slippage in the fast corners.

 

[BajaRon]

If it is a 'Safety Tie'.

By Hoyle. You are supposed to change these out every time anyway. They are not designed to be reused.

Good advise above. Sorry John. Took me awhile to hook up with what you were trying to tell me. Here is an example, NOT SPYDER!

 

[Azbronco]

:dontknow: IMHO that makes no sense. A soft sway bar will cause the spyder to lean OUT in a corner. Every motorcycle I ever rode leaned IN in a corner. The sway bar flattens the spyder and makes handling more crisp. Replacing the Kenda plastic tires with good car tires adds to the traction and reduces slippage in the fast corners.

I saw a lot of people like the sway bar upgrade because they don't like how the trike sways on the freeway--my point was that the sway on a Can Am when passing a semi is pretty minor compared to a motorcycle. Of course the physics of a Spyder/Ryker is different than a motorcycle. On my Can-Am, I put pressure on my outside foot and lean into turns--much different than counter steering, but I can do corners just as fast on the Can-Ams. I have no issue if people want to eliminate sway on their Spyder, I just personally don't think it's a required upgrade.

 

[Knizar]

I saw a lot of people like the sway bar upgrade because they don't like how the trike sways on the freeway--my point was that the sway on a Can Am when passing a semi is pretty minor compared to a motorcycle. Of course the physics of a Spyder/Ryker is different than a motorcycle. On my Can-Am, I put pressure on my outside foot and lean into turns--much different than counter steering, but I can do corners just as fast on the Can-Ams. I have no issue if people want to eliminate sway on their Spyder, I just personally don't think it's a required upgrade.

I don't believe anyone said that it's a "required upgrade", but most everyone that has changed up to the BajaRon bar and Links would not go back. They Do Improve the handling!.....:thumbup:....Bill

 

[JBMGDM]

They're on! Hardest part was getting my Spyder to the recommended height.

 

[RayBJ]

The sway bar isn't required but it is a major improvement if you want to get the most out of spirited riding - especially in fast corners. Not everyone will exceed the limits of the OEM gear but those that do will be looking at the suspension upgrades pretty quickly.

 

[Pirate]

The sway bar isn't required but it is a major improvement if you want to get the most out of spirited riding - especially in fast corners. Not everyone will exceed the limits of the OEM gear but those that do will be looking at the suspension upgrades pretty quickly.

I had my swaybar and end links changed about a month ago. Even taking it down the street on straightaways and the Spyder feels more planted to the road, has greatly reduced the lean on even freeway curves and passing semis don't even phase the bike now. For spirited canyon carving, I would still change out the shocks but for the casual rider, I think the swaybar/end links ARE a required item that should have been on it from the factory.

 

[Mikey]

They're on! Hardest part was getting my Spyder to the recommended height.

View attachment 195518

Holey Crap, I thought I was the only one that did that stuff!!!:roflblack: Back yard engineering at it's best!

 

[fatboy]

you really dont need to get the whole bike up that high you really only need only need to get one front wheel up that high just to get bar out and back in

 

[BajaRon]

They're on! Hardest part was getting my Spyder to the recommended height.

View attachment 195518

Very nice! That took some planning. Keeping the rear wheel on the ground is also a good alternative. It adds the advantage of less work, helps to stabilize the bike. And requires less total lift (about 2-3" less) Because the bar has to be removed perpendicular to the frame. The angle offered by lifting only the front of the bike gives you more effective clearance to the ground.

 

[JBMGDM]

Very nice! That took some planning. Keeping the rear wheel on the ground is also a good alternative. It adds the advantage of less work, helps to stabilize the bike. And requires less total lift (about 2-3" less) Because the bar has to be removed perpendicular to the frame. The angle offered by lifting only the front of the bike gives you more effective clearance to the ground.

Thanks, BajaRon! Yes, your alternative would have worked. Being I was flying solo, I didn't trust the stability of jacking the front only. It doesn't show in the pic, but I also supported the rear with cinder blocks and a jack stand. Stability was rock solid. This may be over-kill, but that's what I felt comfortable with.

I want to praise the recommendation of the use of a dab of super glue on the spacers to keep them in place. That was invaluable! I watched YouTube videos of "experienced" installers using needle-nosed pliers and a ground cloth to capture the spacers should they fall. And, whittling the bushing blocks to help wedge them in?!? Hum, no, not on my watch (although it may be okay to do this?). The bushing blocks, as is, were snug but fit as long as I compressed them with my fingers and pushed them in perpendicular to the channel.

Thanks for a superior product and instructions!

 

[BajaRon]

Thanks, BajaRon! Yes, your alternative would have worked. Being I was flying solo, I didn't trust the stability of jacking the front only. It doesn't show in the pic, but I also supported the rear with cinder blocks and a jack stand. Stability was rock solid. This may be over-kill, but that's what I felt comfortable with.

I want to praise the recommendation of the use of a dab of super glue on the spacers to keep them in place. That was invaluable! I watched YouTube videos of "experienced" installers using needle-nosed pliers and a ground cloth to capture the spacers should they fall. And, whittling the bushing blocks to help wedge them in?!? Hum, no, not on my watch (although it may be okay to do this?). The bushing blocks, as is, were snug but fit as long as I compressed them with my fingers and pushed them in perpendicular to the channel.

Thanks for a superior product and instructions!

Customers have come up with a lot of different ways to skin this cat. One had a large manhole in his driveway. He took the lid off, had his wife push the Spyder into position and did it that way. I never heard back from him as to whether or not his wife pushed the Spyder away when he was finished.

Another customer had a basement stairway in his garage. He got down the steps and moved his Spyder into position from there.

I am all for a safe and stable install, regardless of how it is achieved.

The bushings are a very snug fit. But they will make noise if they are not. Glad it worked out well for you.

We are now including a short dowel for assembling the spacer set with current kits. This makes it much easier to do that step. Thought the Super-Glue method is still a great way to go.