• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Power steering question

If the power steering unit was starting to malfunction, would it throw any codes?

Yesterday, had been out riding about 5 hours and was getting tired, so I started off home. It was also a somewhat windy day.

A few of my turns felt very “hard”, about 5 or 6 during the hour ride home. Similar to what happens when you try to steer a car if the engine has suddenly quit.

Tire pressures were correct. Maybe I was overly tired. Won’t be able to ride again for another week as the temps will be in the 30-40’s.

I actually had this happen the other day. I got the big orange CHECK DPS, followed by LIMP HOME MODE. I'm waiting on the service guys to come pick it up
 
Where did you place the star washer? Under the bolt head? Between the battery post and wire terminal? As I asked, if the battery post is the base, what was the stack up on top of the battery post. If you merely used the star washer as only a lock washer, then, certainly it will help keep the bolt from loosening.

If you positioned the star washer between the battery post and wire terminal, that prevents the terminal from moving in any way, including loosening the entire assembly, even if a lock washer is used.

I have seen the star washer used as I described in both methods.:thumbup:

Ron answered your post for me ….:clap::clap: ….. that's how I do it ….. Mike :ohyea:
 
Ron answered your post for me ….:clap::clap: ….. that's how I do it ….. Mike :ohyea:

I am thinking it may be best to drill bolt heads for the battery connections. Tighten them securely, then safety wire them together to prevent any loosening.
 
I am thinking it may be best to drill bolt heads for the battery connections. Tighten them securely, then safety wire them together to prevent any loosening.

:agree: … as in racing that would be BEST ….. however what I do has worked for over 100,000 mi. and that's good enough for me ….. Question …. how many people here have the ability and tools necessary to do the safety wire thing ???? ………. Mike :ohyea:
 
Had a second ride on Monday and experienced the same condition for about an hour after starting off. It was very random and sporadic and could be felt occurring during a long turn, almost like an on and off switch. Then it stopped for about 4 hours. During the last hour going home, it happened once, only this time it was during a quick lane change, and I had to really turn the bars very hard.

Today, I pulled off the battery cover to check the terminal connections and discovered that I could twist the positive cable and bolt with my hand. Took everything loose, cleaned the surfaces, added di-electric grease and a lock washer and bolted everything back up. Took another 5 hour ride today and did not experience any incidents. So, hopefully, the battery connection was the culprit - fingers crossed! Thanks all for the battery suggestion.

Now, if I could just get rid of the hyper-flash issue that popped up with the new TricLed front turn signals.........
 
Had a second ride on Monday and experienced the same condition for about an hour after starting off. It was very random and sporadic and could be felt occurring during a long turn, almost like an on and off switch. Then it stopped for about 4 hours. During the last hour going home, it happened once, only this time it was during a quick lane change, and I had to really turn the bars very hard.

Today, I pulled off the battery cover to check the terminal connections and discovered that I could twist the positive cable and bolt with my hand. Took everything loose, cleaned the surfaces, added di-electric grease and a lock washer and bolted everything back up. Took another 5 hour ride today and did not experience any incidents. So, hopefully, the battery connection was the culprit - fingers crossed! Thanks all for the battery suggestion.

Now, if I could just get rid of the hyper-flash issue that popped up with the new TricLed front turn signals.........

:agree: …. it was ( as stated in my post to you on 1/16/20 ) the DPS has a very large Power draw ….. and a loose connection will cause problems …… Mike :ohyea:
 
Had a second ride on Monday and experienced the same condition for about an hour after starting off. It was very random and sporadic and could be felt occurring during a long turn, almost like an on and off switch. Then it stopped for about 4 hours. During the last hour going home, it happened once, only this time it was during a quick lane change, and I had to really turn the bars very hard.

Today, I pulled off the battery cover to check the terminal connections and discovered that I could twist the positive cable and bolt with my hand. Took everything loose, cleaned the surfaces, added di-electric grease and a lock washer and bolted everything back up. Took another 5 hour ride today and did not experience any incidents. So, hopefully, the battery connection was the culprit - fingers crossed! Thanks all for the battery suggestion.

Now, if I could just get rid of the hyper-flash issue that popped up with the new TricLed front turn signals.........

I took some heat about what style star lockwasher and where the lockwasher was placed in earlier posts. You clearly stated the wire terminal was able to be rotated on the battery post.

Placing a lockwasher under the bolt head, on a connection or joint where the joint itself has the ability to rotate, renders the lockwasher, regardless of the style less effective. As I mentioned in previous posts, there are times when the correct style lockwasher is placed between the electrical terminal AND the post it is secured to, followed by the flat washer and a second lockwasher.

Assembling in this way lessens the chance of the electrical wire moving and loosening the bolt / flat washer / lockwasher above it.

Ideally, when using lockwashers, there is no means that allows the parts to rotate loose. As an example, an exhaust manifold. In that example, multiple fasteners prevent the manifold from turning.

The downside of battery terminal is they are made of a soft material that can yield over time and use. When that occurs, the wire itself more easily rotates, and the entire connection becomes loose.

Regardless, glad to read your Spyder is fixed.
 
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