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PLEASE HELP! Spyder broke down just outside of Nasville, on my way to Memphis

StSpyder09

New member
Hi all. Traveling to Memphis, on my way from Ohio. Spyder went into limp mode, engine light and dps all came on and Spyder stopped. Its after 7:00 pm. Does anyone have any suggestions for fix to get to Memphis. Or to complete the trip back home to Pensacola?
 
If everything checks out. Have you tried to clear the codes by turning the key on and off three times?
 
On the way to Memphis:

Carlock Powersports
57-B Carriage House Jackson TN 38305
Phone: 731-410-8822 Fax: 731-410-8821
Toll Free Phone: 866-761-2110
 
Last edited:
Hi all. Traveling to Memphis, on my way from Ohio. Spyder went into limp mode, engine light and dps all came on and Spyder stopped. Its after 7:00 pm. Does anyone have any suggestions for fix to get to Memphis. Or to complete the trip back home to Pensacola?


Americas Motor Sports in Nashville has Spyders... just depends on where you are... with tomorrow being July 4th, they might be closed.....
 
I just reallized that and added to my post. :thumbup:

Thanks to all of you. I did all as suggested. Its dark now and I'm at the ER. So if they allow, I'm staying till daylight. Then I will see if it all worked. Any other suggestions are totally appreciated!
 
I am so sorry that i would not be of any help... our spyders are the only bikes in the world that will shut us down in the middle of no where with a "LIMP MODE".
Never in all my live I have ever owned a bike that has broken down till I tried a spyder... But I love them...:bowdown: They just got to get rid of them damm computers !!! GIVE ME JAPAN OR USA COMPUTERS or BUST!!! harsh ain't it??? ask me or any other spyder owners that have been on the side of a high way in 100+ deg. heat if we give a hoot about BRP's "glorified safety computers". Too many similar situations like this are happening to all Including my wife and I.
 
I don't know if they are the same for the rs and RT but I have a set of RT relays and lots of tools. I sent you a PM with my phone number.
 
What code came up?


I haven't done the code search yet. Gonna wait til light and get on the road, when/if it happens again I will do the code search process.

When it went into limp mode, I saw the Hospital sign and thought (safehouse). So here I'll stay til first light. I decided to attempt to top Orange's record and limp home to Pensacola. At least I'll be on my way home. Really wanted to make the reunion, but too many variables lead to a second trip back up to retrieve the Spyder or an even longer trip with uncertanty looming. I will def. Stay in contact with you all for advice and support. Thanks again.
 
those relays will make that hapen,so rember you can buy those at any auto parts store,i dont know the number off hand but if you take one out and show it to the clerk he can cross reverance and get the right one for youe bike.then just try the new one in till you find the right one thats bad or get all new ones and change them all out.another thing i was alwas told to reset the competer you should take the key out then walk a few steps away from the bike waght 5 to 10 min then try to start it up every thing should be reset.now this is the way ive done it and it works fine.the battery cable is it tight.hope this helps .:thumbup: heres a number off mine vj28-95f24-so1 that number is on the top this number is on the side mmm,,mex0621312b
 

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With any luck just shutting down and removing the key for a few minutes will allow you to restart and continue on. When I had my adventure with this I was able to restart after every limp mode. I kept going into limp mode every 25-35 mile for the 200 miles or so but I was able to make forward progress. If you get going and it occurs again you might want to try and retrieve the code by doing a "mode-set-turn signal switch activation". I'm sure an RT owner will chime in with more info on this. Good luck with this and keep us informed.

I just read your profile and found out you have an RS. Codes on an RS are by getting it to display Total Hours, then flash the headlights either 3 or 5 times and then the codes should scroll across the screen. The code has to be active so don't shut the bike off. Get the code first.

So what was the issue in the end? It does restart. How will having the codes help me? I've got twice your distance to Pensacola, but I have to try. Thanks again.
 
I take it from your last post after you reset you didn't get another limp mode. I had about 6 of them and then the last ~130 or so miles were limp free including the trip down to the dealer the next day. I also was lucky to have another pair of Spyderlovers with me. We had figured out that it was some sort of problem with my brake lights. It ended up being just the micro-switches which for some reason needed to be adjusted. If you are going to be in the New Orleans area I can recommend a dealer in Houma, LA. They had me back on the road quickly. Travel safely and good luck.

The dealer is:

Performance Powersports
1816 Martin Luther King Blvd.

1-985-876-7610

Thanks Napper. Will check that too if neccessary. Mr Orange you may have hit it on the head. Just last week I replaced my LED break lights, cause the right one kept blinking off and on. I noticed the replacement is out now on the same side. It blinks if I tap the casing. I figured I would replace again once I got to Memphis. Did not know this could affect the whole system. Can a user easily make the adjustment you spoke of?
 
Thanks Napper. Will check that too if neccessary. Mr Orange you may have hit it on the head. Just last week I replaced my LED break lights, cause the right one kept blinking off and on. I noticed the replacement is out now on the same side. It blinks if I tap the casing. I figured I would replace again once I got to Memphis. Did not know this could affect the whole system. Can a user easily make the adjustment you spoke of?

Yeah, early on failed brake lights were causing issues and the replacement bulbs along with fuses and relays became part of the list of parts many were carrying on long trips. That is more than likely your problem.
 
The tail lights could be the problem for sure. If one is bad then there may not be enough draw for the computer to recognize the brake lights are functioning properly.

I seem to remember this being a problem if you just put in LED bulbs. I would recommend getting the stock type bulbs and replace them at the nearest place to purchase them.


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I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?z2salg
 
Performance Powersports
1816 Martin Luther King Blvd.

1-985-876-7610[/QUOTE]

those relays will make that hapen,so rember you can buy those at any auto parts store,i dont know the number off hand but if you take one out and show it to the clerk he can cross reverance and get the right one for youe bike.then just try the new one in till you find the right one thats bad or get all new ones and change them all out.another thing i was alwas told to reset the competer you should take the key out then walk a few steps away from the bike waght 5 to 10 min then try to start it up every thing should be reset.now this is the way ive done it and it works fine.the battery cable is it tight.hope this helps .:thumbup: heres a number off mine vj28-95f24-so1 that number is on the top this number is on the side mmm,,mex0621312b

Will I further upset anything when removing fuses and relays to check. Is there a physical sign of damage to the relays or is it not visably detectable?
 
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