Ovreheated - Went into Limp Mode

[G-Strad]

Was heading over to a friend's and kept getting stopped at lights. Outside temp was around 102. Was watching the gauge and it went to 5 bars, then six, then maxed out and then Limp Mode. Pulled over and checked what I could. Didn't appear fan was working. Made it home, very slowly. Would only allow 3000 rpm. Parked in driveway and did a little reading. Had a look at the relays. Swapped the headlight and fan relays. After everything cooled off, I started it up, it had reset the CEL and Limp Mode, and let it warm up again. Just a few seconds after bar 5 lit, the fan came on. Headlights also worked fine. Went for a short ride and it would go to 5 bars, fan would come on, and down to 4 bars. I changed the coolant and used Engine Ice. I use that in our sport ATV's and it works great. So far, all seems ok. Is there something I should check after such a high over heat? Any other thoughts? I have read a lot on this and the Spyder Pops items are appealing! Could this overheating have done any damage or hurt any other parts? The ride home was only about 2-3 miles, and I used as high of gear as possible to keep rpm down.

Thanks for any and all help. We don't have a local shop so it is difficult to get it to a service center.

 

[SpyderAnn01]

Do you have an 08 GS? I had one and it did the same thing. The relay was the problem not the temperature. The relay goes out and the fan doesn't come on. You might want to carry an extra relay with you.

 

[G-Strad]

Do you have an 08 GS? I had one and it did the same thing. The relay was the problem not the temperature. The relay goes out and the fan doesn't come on. You might want to carry an extra relay with you.

You called that one! It is a 2008, #265. After I switched the headlight and fan relays, both circuits worked fine. Do these have possibly bad contact issues? Where is the best place to pick up a spare relay, just in case?

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

relay

You called that one! It is a 2008, #265. After I switched the headlight and fan relays, both circuits worked fine. Do these have possibly bad contact issues? Where is the best place to pick up a spare relay, just in case?

After you switched relays and identified the fact that you had one go "bad" . You now need to replace that relay ....right.....Just a reminder.....Mike..............sometimes it's the obvious that gets lost...:thumbup:

 

[G-Strad]

After you switched relays and identified the fact that you had one go "bad" . You now need to replace that relay ....right.....Just a reminder.....Mike..............sometimes it's the obvious that gets lost...:thumbup:

The odd part is that the "bad" relay was put in the headlight socket, headlight uses the same relay, and the headlights work perfectly. Usually, when a relay fails, it fails. The contacts get arced and/or the coil fails. We use a lot of relays at work and rarely do the kinda fail. I will be getting a new one just in case.

 

[SpyderAnn01]

You called that one! It is a 2008, #265. After I switched the headlight and fan relays, both circuits worked fine. Do these have possibly bad contact issues? Where is the best place to pick up a spare relay, just in case?

The 08 I had was PE268 I think. Funny thing is that when we had this issue we were going to a gathering where the BRP demo truck was along with a guy from the WI factory. This guy, who shall remain nameless, told us that on the low # PE blown relays were a common occurrence and to be sure to keep spares on board. We did have one more relay blow but that was it. NAPA carries them as do most auto parts stores. The prices do vary from store to store so it pays to shop for them.

 

[G-Strad]

The 08 I had was PE268 I think. Funny thing is that when we had this issue we were going to a gathering where the BRP demo truck was along with a guy from the WI factory. This guy, who shall remain nameless, told us that on the low # PE blown relays were a common occurrence and to be sure to keep spares on board. We did have one more relay blow but that was it. NAPA carries them as do most auto parts stores. The prices do vary from store to store so it pays to shop for them.

Excellent info to have! Thanks for the help. Will be relay shopping! :2thumbs:

 

[napper39]

if that relay was just not seated that would be why it worked for the head light,ive tried to stress cheaking all relays and fuesses every 500 miles they vibrate loose.all is nedded is to pushe them in.and the battery cable also vibrates loose,when that hapens all kinds of bad things happen,so please check often it only takes 10 minets,then you may not ever see limp :yikes: mode agin.ive found them loose many times .now ride like the wind and have fun.:thumbup::chat: good idea to keep spare relays with you.and keep your spyder hooked up to a battery tender at all times your not riding.:2thumbs:

 

[Recluze]

I have had the same problem. Changed the fan relay and things were good. A couple of months later bike would not start-another relay. Bottomline for me is I am going to change all of the relays every 3 or 4 years when I change the battery. I have never experienced relays that go out so fast but why take a chance on a small cost item.

 

[Campverdefela]

Was heading over to a friend's and kept getting stopped at lights. Outside temp was around 102. Was watching the gauge and it went to 5 bars, then six, then maxed out and then Limp Mode. Pulled over and checked what I could. Didn't appear fan was working. Made it home, very slowly. Would only allow 3000 rpm. Parked in driveway and did a little reading. Had a look at the relays. Swapped the headlight and fan relays. After everything cooled off, I started it up, it had reset the CEL and Limp Mode, and let it warm up again. Just a few seconds after bar 5 lit, the fan came on. Headlights also worked fine. Went for a short ride and it would go to 5 bars, fan would come on, and down to 4 bars. I changed the coolant and used Engine Ice. I use that in our sport ATV's and it works great. So far, all seems ok. Is there something I should check after such a high over heat? Any other thoughts? I have read a lot on this and the Spyder Pops items are appealing! Could this overheating have done any damage or hurt any other parts? The ride home was only about 2-3 miles, and I used as high of gear as possible to keep rpm down.

Thanks for any and all help. We don't have a local shop so it is difficult to get it to a service center.

While the SpyderPops mods have proven themselves to work, they wouldn't have helped sitting in traffic on a hot day. I replaced all the origial relays years ago when a lot of riders started reporting problems, this you might consider.

 

[Huntindawg1962]

The 08 I had was PE268 I think. Funny thing is that when we had this issue we were going to a gathering where the BRP demo truck was along with a guy from the WI factory. This guy, who shall remain nameless, told us that on the low # PE blown relays were a common occurrence and to be sure to keep spares on board. We did have one more relay blow but that was it. NAPA carries them as do most auto parts stores. The prices do vary from store to store so it pays to shop for them.

Wow - I thought the WI factory was just Evinrude engines?? Learn something every day I guess!

 

[Spyder Monkey]

So stupid question, but how hot should this thing get before the fan kicks on? I don't think I have ever heard the fan turn on (and I have been having all kinds of heat problems). Feeling kinda stupid right now, going to buy a relay on the way home if I can find them at Autozone.

David

 

[Jeriatric]

So stupid question, but how hot should this thing get before the fan kicks on? I don't think I have ever heard the fan turn on (and I have been having all kinds of heat problems). Feeling kinda stupid right now, going to buy a relay on the way home if I can find them at Autozone.

David

APPROXIMATELY - 216 DEGREES

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...gs-after-time-to-eat-some-crow&highlight=TEMP

 

[SpyderAnn01]

So stupid question, but how hot should this thing get before the fan kicks on? I don't think I have ever heard the fan turn on (and I have been having all kinds of heat problems). Feeling kinda stupid right now, going to buy a relay on the way home if I can find them at Autozone.

David

I don't remember if the RS fan runs after you shut off the motor like it does on the RT. But if you are idling in Houston you should definitely hear the fan running. I would think that yours is working or you would have overheated for sure.

 

[NancysToy]

Lots of us can't hear the fan run, especially with earplugs or a full-face helmet. Hold your hand down near the outlet and see if you feel the air moving. If the temp gauge is below #5 (5/8), the fan will not be on, #5 could go either way, above #5 it should be running.

 

[gimpygary62]

My GS overheats in Houston traffic as well. I've put a spal fan on the oil cooler that I flip on when I get stuck in traffic and I'm changing out out the stock radiator fan for a later model RS fan. BRP tech said there was a benifit to it and another Spyderlover (sorry I can't remember his name to give him proper credit) said he switched his out and hasn't had any more trouble with overheating.

Good luck with it.

 

[G-Strad]

Lots of great info. Thanks to all for helping out with suggestions. So far, all has been good. As stated above, 5 bars may or may not initiate the fan coming on. 6 it should be on. I have watched closely and when it has hit 5 and stays there for a while, the fan has started and then it drops to 4 bars. The fan must shut off as it will slowly go back up to 5 and the cycle starts over.

Does anyone have the part number for the newer fan? Also, which model fan is typically used on the oil cooler?

Glen

 

[gimpygary62]

Lots of great info. Thanks to all for helping out with suggestions. So far, all has been good. As stated above, 5 bars may or may not initiate the fan coming on. 6 it should be on. I have watched closely and when it has hit 5 and stays there for a while, the fan has started and then it drops to 4 bars. The fan must shut off as it will slowly go back up to 5 and the cycle starts over.

Does anyone have the part number for the newer fan? Also, which model fan is typically used on the oil cooler?

Glen

I haven't had a chance to install yet as I've been laid up since Durango. Wife went out to the garage to get part number off of it. 20-5H0c2. I just called the dealer up and asked him for a 2011 RS fan. It cost $221 (not installed)

I don't know if it's the "typical" fan that I put on my oil cooler. I just picked something that looked like it would fit. Looked around on my computer for a confirmation or invoice for what I ordered but couldn't come up with it. I'll have my son take a look at it when he gets back.

 

[G-Strad]

I haven't had a chance to install yet as I've been laid up since Durango. Wife went out to the garage to get part number off of it. 20-5H0c2. I just called the dealer up and asked him for a 2011 RS fan. It cost $221 (not installed)

I don't know if it's the "typical" fan that I put on my oil cooler. I just picked something that looked like it would fit. Looked around on my computer for a confirmation or invoice for what I ordered but couldn't come up with it. I'll have my son take a look at it when he gets back.

Gimpy

Thanks for your efforts in getting me the info. It is very much appreciated. It can be a very time consuming venture in finding a general part to fit a particular situation. Where did you wire in the oil cooler fan? Can you just wire into the positive terminal of the battery, through a switch, or relay if necessary, and then to the fan, and chassis ground? Read a lot about adding things to the Can Bus system and the problems it can cause.


Glen

 

[WaltH]

My RT cools better than my GS. The RT has larger hardware. Both of my Spyders have fan override switches so I can turn the fan on at will. I do this when I am approaching a situation where I know the fan will be "tested". This has worked out very well even though they are seldom needed. I would recommend putting the RT fan on your GS.