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Ok to tie here?

Cognac

New member
Trying to work with existing D rings in my trailer floor. Do you think it is OK to tie down to the bracket holding the saddle bag or to the passenger handrails?

ps. For some reason the photo loaded upside down. Please stand on your head��
 

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I cannot speak to the strap point in your photos, but would strongly caution against using the passenger hand grips. The rubber coating will tear if you stress it too much. We've even seen reports where it tore when someone used a clamp style cup holder back there.
 
Tires-Tires-Tires

Trying to work with existing D rings in my trailer floor. Do you think it is OK to tie down to the bracket holding the saddle bag or to the passenger handrails?

ps. For some reason the photo loaded upside down. Please stand on your head��

If you don't want damage to the bike, don't strap the bike. The tires are what touches mother earth (or trailer bed) so if you keep them from moving the bike will be fine. I would secure the front wheels then tension them by pulling back on the rear tire. I look at it as corralling the bike to keep it in the same area. If you try to tie it down so tight that something is going to break. In my experience what breaks is the load and not the straps. My goal would be to keep the bike from moving no more that an inch in any direction. That movement would not upset the weight distribution of the trailer and not break anything on the bike.

Securing the wheels/tires also lets the rest of the bike use it's suspension to move as the trailer bounces down the road. Strapping to the bag mounts would put the suspension under load and all movement of the trailer is transferred to the bag mounts.

There are various options and opinions on this but that is how I look at it.
 
I have a similar set up as you do and I am wondering why you don't use
something strong like the frame or the trailer hitch to tie it down ?
The bag mounts are thin tubing and will bend as will the grab handles
Play it safe and use the frame.
Ride Safe
Dave
 
I lost my manual, but I believe it said to tie the wheels down and let the Spyder use it own suspension. Works for me. Just watch the straps are not in contact with a valve stem.
Oldmanzues
 
Yes, tie down through the wheels.
with larger 2inch wide straps if you can. Avoid stems & go UNDER belt. Dont just strap down but pull in oppisite directions<:spyder2:> (like tow trucks do)will be more secure. Dont trailer backwards where windshield will break in wind! Do not advise a cover that will flap in wind & scuff paint!
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Locked 'N Loaded

We listened to all of your good advice. Trailer is too short to pull forward on the front wheels so we got chocks for them and then tied thru the back wheel with two straps, one pulling forward, down, and to the left and the other strap pulling forward, down and to right. Watching out for the valve stem.

Tomorrow we'll hook the trailer onto our 26 ft. Lazy Daze RV and take a two week trip exploring upper Michigan. Should be tons of fun. And yes we could just drive the Spyder the whole way, but we love the RV, too.

Thanks once again for all the help. You are so nice to us newbies. You folks are the best. :bowdown: Bless you. :bowdown:Bless you. :bowdown: Bless you.
 
Last question on topic

Once all tied in we closed the door to our enclosed trailer and found it right up against the hitch ball on the back of the Sypder. Is that ok? We put a protecting cover over the hitch.
 
Hitch Ball

Once all tied in we closed the door to our enclosed trailer and found it right up against the hitch ball on the back of the Sypder. Is that ok? We put a protecting cover over the hitch.

I don't think that you would hurt the hitch ball. I would bet that any time you have any part of the trailer (wall, doors etc.) touching the bike expect that the finish will take a hit. Even with a cover (plastic or cloth) it will rub on that spot when under way. Any rubbing will hurt the finish. The only way to stop is to be sure there is an air gap between the bike and the trailer. This won't hurt the function of the hitch or ball but will rub the finish off.
 
I strongly advise not to load and strap upside down as in this picture! &#55357;&#56833; :dontknow:



with larger 2inch wide straps if you can. Avoid stems & go UNDER belt. Dont just strap down but pull in oppisite directions<:spyder2:> (like tow trucks do)will be more secure. Dont trailer backwards where windshield will break in wind! Do not advise a cover that will flap in wind & scuff paint!
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Once all tied in we closed the door to our enclosed trailer and found it right up against the hitch ball on the back of the Sypder. Is that ok? We put a protecting cover over the hitch.

Anything touching will wear. Likely just the paint at the point of contact. I don't know about the door.

About strapping, you also have the option of strapping the front wheels, pulling to the rear and the rear wheel, pulling to the front. That would reduce the overall 'footprint' of your setup and may get you away from your door if you were to lose the chocks.
 
its ok to strap a spyder like this.. but be real careful when you unstrap it... move out from under it VERY QUICKLY...or it prolly will hurt like heck when you do... :yikes:

osm



with larger 2inch wide straps if you can. Avoid stems & go UNDER belt. Dont just strap down but pull in oppisite directions<:spyder2:> (like tow trucks do)will be more secure. Dont trailer backwards where windshield will break in wind! Do not advise a cover that will flap in wind & scuff paint!
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We can uninstall the chocks and move them forward just enough for the hitch to clear the back door. Just an "Oh S..t" that can be fixed. Just needed a day to face the music.
 
its ok to strap a spyder like this.. but be real careful when you unstrap it... move out from under it VERY QUICKLY...or it prolly will hurt like heck when you do... :yikes:

osm

Funny you say that, parking like that was so EZ, all I did was post pic here.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Strap the Spyder down via the wheels. Any tie point above the suspension will be stressed when the trailer goes over a bump and the springs compress/extend. The weight of the Spyder is enough to transmit that stress to the tie point. Think of it as constant jerking and tugging against one spot; eventually that will bend or crack. Also even if the Spyder is tightly secured it WILL move forward and backwards a little, so move it away from the door lest you want a hole in the ramp door over time.
 
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