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oil

Has anyone used non synthetic,conventional,dyno oil 10-40 in their spyder with auto trans.??


Personally I wouldn't bother, why would you want to? A big modern V-twin is designed around semi-synthetic oil.
If you use dino you'll have to change the oil and filter more frequently as it deteriorates more readily.
Just use an oil which meets or exceeds Can-Am's specification.
 
Has anyone used non synthetic,conventional,dyno oil 10-40 in their spyder with auto trans.??

Not me. I have used synthetic oil for many years in my motorcycles and cars. Proven better oil. I once dismantled a Harley twin cam motor at 100,000 miles. I had used Mobil 1 in it since 1000 miles. I found no issues and believe it would have gone 100,000 more.
Oil is cheep insurance so I use the best.
 
Not me. I have used synthetic oil for many years in my motorcycles and cars. Proven better oil. I once dismantled a Harley twin cam motor at 100,000 miles. I had used Mobil 1 in it since 1000 miles. I found no issues and believe it would have gone 100,000 more.
Oil is cheep insurance so I use the best.

Yep!! I agree with that with just one reservation. If the bike has a 'wet' clutch you have to be very careful which full synthetic that you use.
Most of the blends specifically for motor cycles are fine but synthetic oils for cars can screw up the clutch plates.:shocked:
 
Valvoline makes a dino oil that is Jaso MA2 rated and readily avail at Walmart for about $5. If you want to try it, have a lab test done at 2000 miles to see how the viscosity holds up.
Blackstone will send you a free sample bottle and its about $25 when you return it with the used oil. If you do, let us know how it turns out.

I've used Valvoline synthetic and it lab tested almost, but not quite, as good as Amsoil. I would imagine their dino would hold up fairly well also.
 
There is more to the price of oil than the amount of $'s per quart. If you get an oil that you don't have to change as often you're price per quart goes down. Especially when you consider the price of filters and time required for the oil change (whether you do it yourself or have it done).

Also, if you get an oil that will go 5-6K between changes you probably will not have to look for an oil change on a long trip.

Sometimes 'Cheap' actually costs more.
 
Has anyone used non synthetic,conventional,dyno oil 10-40 in their spyder with auto trans.??

The SE5 will not shift smooth with non synthetic oil and if is not Jaso MA2 rated it can make your slip and burn it up. It's a free country do as you like. Like the old saying goes pay a little more now or a lot later. That's IMHO.

Mike
 
Not me. I have used synthetic oil for many years in my motorcycles and cars. Proven better oil. I once dismantled a Harley twin cam motor at 100,000 miles. I had used Mobil 1 in it since 1000 miles. I found no issues and believe it would have gone 100,000 more.
Oil is cheep insurance so I use the best.

In the early days of this forum, Mobil 1 (motorcycle specific) was reported to cause clutch slippage by some users.
 
As I see it..!!

why try to save on the recommended essentials of such an expensive recreational vehicle..?? You want to save money cut down on the farkeling and pack a lunch. If they recommend things it's not because they want you to go out and find out if they are right. They give you the min and if you want go better...:thumbup:
 
In the early days of this forum, Mobil 1 (motorcycle specific) was reported to cause clutch slippage by some users.

It may have as it fixed my grabbing clutch I had on my 03 Road King and made it perform like it should. I took it to a master mechanic about how the clutch grabs. He told me to add 2 ozs og Ford limit slip additive and that would fix it. It did and then I just starten using Mobil 1 20w-50w in the chain case and that worked as well. I experienced no unwanted slipage.
 
Oil is to a motor what blood is to a human. Going cheap on oil on a 25K plus machine is like going to skid row for a transfusion. Just my humble opinion.,
 
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