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Oil use? should we run 20-50 in summer????

witty

New member
What does everybody think about running 20-50 Amsoil or other brand syn. in the summer. The bike my stop using oil. I will tell ya my Harleys do not use oil with 20-50 Amsoil. The oil will change viscosity with temp. Change it back to a 10-40 in cold weather so it will start easy. Always let you motor warm up to temp before riding. It is hard on any aluminum motor to not let it warm up to temp!!!!! It is not like a car motor. I love my RT and want to take care of it.....:2thumbs:
 
BRP has no recommendation to increase oil weight for hotter climates. My KTM - a similar twin - recommends doing what you're asking. With that tidbit and what you already know. It's your choice.
 
I am the first one in line for doing something different if I think it will help. But I don't recommend 20w-50 in the Spyder.

A Harley doesn't turn 6,000 RPM running down the road like our Spyders do. That's apples and oranges. There are worse things than using a bit of oil.

The thicker oil will not cool your engine as well as thinner oil will. Engines are engineered for a specific weight oil. If you get a true Group IV oil like Amsoil (and there are a few others) it won't thin out nearly as much when hot as doctored dino oils.

I know people think thicker is better. But the right viscosity is better. Stick with 10w-40. It will do you just fine.
 
Let's see..!!

the brp oils do offer a summer blend. Don't know if the others do or they just go for higher viscosity. Being a high rpm engine I'd stick with the recommended oil... :dontknow:
 
the brp oils do offer a summer blend. Don't know if the others do or they just go for higher viscosity. Being a high rpm engine I'd stick with the recommended oil... :dontknow:

The other oil BRP recommends is a 5w-40. It's just a bit thinner when cold but the operating temperature viscosity is the same.
 
Thanks for the reply

Thanks and I hope others weigh in on this. I want to run what is best for the bike!!!:thumbup:
 
Just my opinion i have been using 20W50 syn 3 in v twin HD motors for over ten years in air cooled and non air cooled here in florida that are specified for aluminum motorcycle engins that being said i still have cases of the HD premium synthitic in the garage. the rotax has a stated oil viscosity rating for summer here in Florida to be used at the 20W 40 grade which is their standard so i thought i would try a test using both oils during hot and cold temps and take some readings to see if the air cooled 20w -50 would measure up to the spec oil and the way i see it i found that the 20-50 showed lower bars in 90 degree weathher and an at the bottom end of the scale in cold weather start up performed as well as the 10-40 - 20-50 most would agree to use ams oil in the rating speced for their rotax and be fine but for me rather than keep the syn 3 20W 50 on the shelf until someone can prove to me that it wont perform as well in a watter cooled v twin HD opposed to an watter cooled rotax it wil work fine for me.
 
I am the first one in line for doing something different if I think it will help. But I don't recommend 20w-50 in the Spyder.

A Harley doesn't turn 6,000 RPM running down the road like our Spyders do. That's apples and oranges. There are worse things than using a bit of oil.

The thicker oil will not cool your engine as well as thinner oil will. Engines are engineered for a specific weight oil. If you get a true Group IV oil like Amsoil (and there are a few others) it won't thin out nearly as much when hot as doctored dino oils.

I know people think thicker is better. But the right viscosity is better. Stick with 10w-40. It will do you just fine.



Agree with Ron concerning oil. Not to start a war over warm ups... But 30-60 sec is all thats required. Keep 5k and under during warm up riding beneficial. Most start bike, throw on jacket, helmet, and gloves, and ride.
 
Oi

Agree with Ron concerning oil. Not to start a war over warm ups... But 30-60 sec is all thats required. Keep 5k and under during warm up riding beneficial. Most start bike, throw on jacket, helmet, and gloves, and ride.

My dealer said BRP says to use synthetic in the winter and the blend they sell in the summer.

Sounds almost backward from normal to me.:cheers:

Tuck
 
BRP has no recommendation to increase oil weight for hotter climates. My KTM - a similar twin - recommends doing what you're asking. With that tidbit and what you already know. It's your choice.
The same Rotax engine in the Aprilia line specs a 15w50. I don't see any harm in a 20w50 if the ambient temps are up. I wouldn't want to see any w50 oils in winter. Oils are a balancing act. Lighter oils do get to critical parts faster during cold starts, where the majority of wear occurs. But you have to have enough viscosity to protect those same parts at temperature and load. The oil film has to be thicker than any dirt particle to minimize wear. That's only one reason why diesels run thicker oils than their gas counterparts, to carry the fuel soot but still protect in the bearings. All that being said, I'll run a 10w40 for now, especially during warranty, but will have no problem filling it up with a 15w50 synthetic later on.
 
The Spyder does not have an air-cooled engine. The oil temperature does not change drastically from winter to summer. I would not recommend using a 20W-50 oil! Your Spyder doesn't need it, and could be seriously harmed as a result. If it is harmed from using a non-spec oil, your warranty won't cover it.
 
The Spyder does not have an air-cooled engine. The oil temperature does not change drastically from winter to summer. I would not recommend using a 20W-50 oil! Your Spyder doesn't need it, and could be seriously harmed as a result. If it is harmed from using a non-spec oil, your warranty won't cover it.

With the loose tolerances many ROTAX engines appear to have?

That said, if BRP recommended molasses in the dead of winter. That's what they would get. Cause it's their dance.
 
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I'm sorry, I understood the term. Please explain how a Rotax 990 engine is "loose". I've never heard of our engine described this way. As it relates to the valves, are these loose compared to other high revving VTwins?
 
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Hmmm. Thanks. Perhaps the design isnt as tight due to the High Revs the 990 is designed for. Perhaps that is why our valve clearances are always within tolerance well after the recommended inspection date. Interesting.
 
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