• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Oil type in 2014 RT

Very easy...

Your manual gives you the specifications needed for these machines. If the oil you find meets those and is safe for wet clutch systems then you can use it. The weight can vary with where you live (warm climates, cold climates etc). I would stick with oils recommended for motorcycles but you are not limited to them. We have sponsors that can help you with oil and filters or you can shop locally...:thumbup:
 
:agree:....10,000 is an easy number to remember, because if your dealer tells you it will cost $10,000 to replace your Engine you will remember that number!!!!!!..............................But seriously, we have committed people here testing their the oils they use and 5000 is about the MAX even using FULL SYNTHETIC.....if you think I'm nuts have yours tested at 10,000 miles and find out the truth ......This is not an area you want to be guessing about..........JMHO........Mike :thumbup:.....Also, I would like to add " Thank you for your Service "

Thanks Mike. I quote the 2014 Spyder RT owners manual below. 9,300 miles or one year.....like I said, I do 10,000 miles and have for the last 30-35 years or so when I started using synthetic. If my engine fails due to not changing the oil earlier, it will be no problem. I will just buy another Spyder with my huge income....huge because my wife just got promoted to Head Oiler on the second shift at the sawmill and with her day job at Wal-Mart, the money is rolling in....

Thanks, I enjoyed my 29 years in the Air Force, 80% good and 20% bad. The bad was some not so nice places overseas....I got out after 29 years as I did not wish to make career of it....

EVERY 15 000 KM (9,300 MI) OR 1 YEAR (WHICHEVER COMES FIRST)
Using BRP Utility and Diagnostic Software (B.U.D.S.), check fault codes and install
required updates.
Replace engine oil and oil filter.

:spyder2:
 
gee whiz.. a fellow spyder just asked a simple question.. if you don't want to answer.. don't .. but it sure is more rude of you to chastise someone asking a question.. chill out.. dude..

I plan to use Castrol T4 full synthetic racing oil 5W40 in my 2014 RT limited .... I ordered it thru Amazon

osm

I agree!! Just answer the question if you have the answer.!!!!
 
For what it is worth.

On Facebook a guy told me that "some folks in the know" which I will not name but they are important folks, say NOT to use Amsoil in the 1330!

He could not explain why only that they were pretty "in fact" about it. He did tell me who told him that which I found surprising and thus seemed valid.

I wish I could tell you more only that this did come up!!!!

Bob
 
Dear Sir .....BRP engineers are absolutely positive ( and so are their Lawyers ) that the engine will not FAIL before the WARRANTY EXPIRES......After that well ??????????...........I not worried about the "after", because I change mine at 5000 mi.and I don't use inferior BRP OIL........your welcome ..Mike.................NEWS FLASH !!!!!....I just found an older post by " ulflyer " who had His 10w 40 Amsoil tested at 4,000 miles and the Lab sent a caution message----- OIL gone to a LOW 30w rating at 4,000 miles ....so good luck with your Hopes and dreams for 10,000 miles.

Like I said, different strokes for different folks.
I use my personal ACTUAL data of over 1 million miles on various makes, models, and engine types. With one engine at 10 years and never a problem or significant wear, I'll stick with my program. I will say that I've been using full synthetic since 1973 in all my vehicle types.
I also remember a time when Aluminum block engines were considered INFERIOR and we know ho that worked out.

Each owners needs to do what THEY think is right for them.
One man's soup is another man's banquet.
 
For those who do their own oil/filter changes, where do you get the O-rings and seals? My dealer sells the change kit for $85.00...I like the idea of using a different oil though.
 
Drop BajaRon a Line ---

For those who do their own oil/filter changes, where do you get the O-rings and seals? My dealer sells the change kit for $85.00...I like the idea of using a different oil though.

Just let him know the year and Model and the number of filters and Orings/seal kits and he will fix you right up. I also think he can get you a good price on AmsOil if that is your wish.

Great Price and Service and one of the Sponsors of this Site!!
 
Accepted

Apology accepted on my end. Last time I checked we are all pretty human and make mistakes. Humility is a nice characteristic to have when needed.



My sincere apologies to the OP and others that read my post. It was a rude way to answer a newcomer. I am sorry.

If it adds any value to the discussion at all, I also will be using the Rotella T6 in my F3. I already use it in everything else we own except Louise 2013 RT. Been using it for years since Mobil Delvac One failed us not long after the Exxon takeover.
 
RT oil

My sincere apologies to the OP and others that read my post. It was a rude way to answer a newcomer. I am sorry.

If it adds any value to the discussion at all, I also will be using the Rotella T6 in my F3. I already use it in everything else we own except Louise 2013 RT. Been using it for years since Mobil Delvac One failed us not long after the Exxon takeover.
. No offence taken jc we all have our bad days;);).
 
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