OIL, OIL, OIL...

[sandrunr1]

The clutch went on my SE5 at 7000 miles. Thanks to BRP, it was covered under warrenty and the work was done at PRO Shops in Henderson, NV. 3 days and back home. As for the reason the clutch was slipping, wrong oil. I started with BRP brand blended oil. I changed to Mobil 1. When I pulled this oil out, after the clutch started slipping, it smelled burned big time. I put Castrol synthetic in but it didnt help. Damage was done. I right away changed my wife's oil from Mobil 1 to Castrol. No damage to hers. Dealer mechanic said the mobile1 is way to slick for Spyders. Stay with the blended. Anyway, the dealer was right on top of repair and I am happy with the great service. BRP tech support said usally they dont cover wear parts but as the Spyder was in great shape and tires were not bald, they covered. Yeah... Going back to BRP oil. No more chances.

 

[NancysToy]

Which Mobil1? The motorcycle oil meets the BRP spec, but the automobile oil does not. Same for most weights of Castrol.

 

[MarkLawson]

Which Mobil1? The motorcycle oil meets the BRP spec, but the automobile oil does not. Same for most weights of Castrol.

:agree:

Inquiring minds want to know.

 

[boborgera]

Shouldn't have a slipping clutch with Mobil 1 MOTORCYCEL OIL.opcorn:

 

[stormtrooper]

I did my first oil change myself and put in the Mobil 1 motorcycle oil and I do notice the clutch slipping so I guess I will have to change to something else.:dontknowid not notice it slipping at all the first few months I had the spyder.:dontknow:

 

[WackyDan]

Shouldn't have a slipping clutch with Mobil 1 MOTORCYCEL OIL.opcorn:

There was another thread on here a month or so ago. They changed the rating of the mobil 1 racing 4t which means a different formulation. It is NOW one that would/could cause clutch to slip.

 

[DougB]

The service manager at my dealer mentioned that Amsoil MC oil may cause the same clutch problem. I contacted Amsoil and was told it is designed for this application and it does meet the standards specified for the Spyder by BRP. Anyone had a problem with the Amsoil? I've used it in my past 2 bikes with no problem.

 

[pierrelogic]

The service manager at my dealer mentioned that Amsoil MC oil may cause the same clutch problem. I contacted Amsoil and was told it is designed for this application and it does meet the standards specified for the Spyder by BRP. Anyone had a problem with the Amsoil? I've used it in my past 2 bikes with no problem.

This highlights something that is troublesome. It's bound to happen but it pays to do your own research. All dealers are not created equal. Some are leaders in this fledgling industry...others are completely clueless. I've met both kinds.

Research --> Motorcycle oils

You can feel confident with Amsoil designed for motorcycles. They are proven in the snowmobiling world where engines are treated like red-headed step-children. Bottom line, if the oil meets the specifications the BRP engineers dictate you can't go wrong. This is exactly what is says in the manual:

Use BRP XP-S 5W 40 synthetic oil (P/N 293 600 039) or equivalent motorcycle oil meeting the requirement for API service SL, SH, or SG classification. Always check the API service label on the oil container.

NOTICE To avoid damaging the clutch, do not use a motor oil meeting the API service SM or ILSAC GF-4 classification. Clutch slippage will occur

 

[Roadkill]

+I've had no concerns with my AMSOIL. Spec is proper.

Ride on.
Roadkill

 

[burg650]

What about Motul and Repsol Moto Racing oil, I also have the Mobil 1 in now and have notice slipping as well just hope I did not damage anything

 

[bone crusher]

ahhh...nothing wrong with the BRP oil that is for our Spyders...

Sure, we can go with alternatives, but I'm trying to figure out why take a risk unless you know for sure that what you're using is safe?

 

[Trickie Dick]

I'm not sure BRP knows what they want us to use. First it was full syn only; then it was a blend; summer weight and winter weight(though they don't publish weights). Of course when the dealer's change the oil, most of them use barrel oil. :dontknow:
Me, I have been using Amsoil for the last 3 changes. Why, because it meets spec, it's a darn good oil and it's 30-40% less than what the dealer charges me for their BRP "come from the cheapest vendor" oil in their pretty yellow containers.

 

[Campverdefela]

What about Motul and Repsol Moto Racing oil, I also have the Mobil 1 in now and have notice slipping as well just hope I did not damage anything

I use Motul, works great, one of the best MC oils especially for racing engines and wet clutches...http://shop.hyperformanceparts.com/...ON-SYNTHETIC-OIL-detail.htm?productId=8287455

 

[sandrunr1]

Sorry I didn't make myself clear. The Mobil 1 I used was rated for motorcycles. 4t and all that. The dealer and Mechanic informed me, and I take it for what it is worth, that when a motor is broke in with a specific type of oil, a person should stay with that type. I was told Castrol is ok but Mobile 1 and Amsoil is too slick. Most dont have problems but when you do you do. Just my opinion. I will be staying with BRP recommended just because My dealer, PRO SHOPS and BRP repaired at no charge. I couldn't have asked for better treatment anywhere.

 

[boborgera]

There was another thread on here a month or so ago. They changed the rating of the mobil 1 racing 4t which means a different formulation. It is NOW one that would/could cause clutch to slip.

I have over 13 thousand miles on Mobil 1 racing alone, With no slipping,
But i did buy enough last year for 3 oil changes, so maybe they did change the formula since the last time i stocked up?.:dontknow:

 

[pierrelogic]

There was another thread on here a month or so ago. They changed the rating of the mobil 1 racing 4t which means a different formulation. It is NOW one that would/could cause clutch to slip.

Indeed..lengthy one at that --> Oil talk

My bottom line for me is this. Your dealer IS your warranty. My conversation with them on the oil I use (Amsoil 10w-40 motorcycle oil meeting all the specs of the shop manual) was simple. They had no problems with it and I could push the 3000 miles between changes to 5 grand. Doing so means less cost per change of course. And I have the blessing of my warranty...er dealer. The only change to this schedule is during the winter when I run the Spyder daily in frigid temps. I will change it closer to the 3 grand but that's a personal choice and a wise one in my book due to the harder than normal starts.

Too each their own. I'm comfortable with my decisions and I am covered under my warranty per my dealer.

 

[M2Wild]

There was another thread on here a month or so ago. They changed the rating of the mobil 1 racing 4t which means a different formulation. It is NOW one that would/could cause clutch to slip.

I remember seeing that thread too.

 

[Raptor]

I did two cycles during engine break-in on both machines with the BRP Blend as per my dealer recommendation and then switched to Amsoil full synthetic MC oil. Absolutely superb stuff. Others use different brands and are very happy with them. Dudley uses Royal Purple and he swears by it. He has the miles to prove it too!

Again it's just one of those personal choices we all have to make, but using product that meets the spec and getting your dealer's input never hurts. Like Pierre said, the dealer is your warranty!

 

[ozzie]

WHAT? Mobil-1 doesnt work?

DAMIT, I just changed my oil and used mobil-1 for the first time. Do most of you think I should change it before I ride this weekend? Or will it be ok? I’ve used amsoil the last 2 oil changes without any problems.

 

[pierrelogic]

DAMIT, I just changed my oil and used mobil-1 for the first time. Do most of you think I should change it before I ride this weekend? Or will it be ok? I’ve used amsoil the last 2 oil changes without any problems.

If the oil you put in is the kind that the service manual recommends (see my post above) you should be just fine. If in doubt, call your dealer and ask them for their recommendations. The brand of oil is irrelevant...type matching the specks is critical. That is why BRP uses the words "or equivilent" in the shop manual. :thumbup: