Oil light stays on

[pierrelogic]

I finally got a problem I can't seem to pin down a cause to fix.

Spyder sat for a brief amount of time due to snow cover and cold. Never more than 13 days so far this winter. Took it out for a spin New Years Eve day and everything was fine. As I was coming home I noticed the oil light flicker so I backed down off the throttle. Then after travelling in neutral a few hundred yards the oil light stayed on. Pulled to the side and checked the oil. It was down but not quite off the oil stick. Added some oil (less than 1/2 qrt) right away to bring it back up to the full line but the light is now permanently on.

• Only been 1,700 since last oil change (yes odd to be that low on oil)
• It's throwing no fault codes
• I've tried all the little tricks to "reset" other than disconnect battery
• When I rev the engine to about 3900-4000 rpm's the engine acts like it's misfiring and will not go any higher on rpm's

Dealer time? :gaah:

 

[docdoru]

Dealer time?

Yes, could be the oil pressure switch. :shocked:

 

[wyliec]

When my oil pressure switch had to be replaced, my rpm's weren't limited. Of course my ops light would intermittently come on.

 

[SpyderWolf]

This is one I haven't heard of yet. I wish you the best in getting it resolved quickly. Please let us know what you find the cause to be.

 

[pierrelogic]

This is one I haven't heard of yet. I wish you the best in getting it resolved quickly. Please let us know what you find the cause to be.

Thanks. My dealer is closed for the holiday of course so tomorrow I'll have the discussion with them. Confident this is covered under warranty too since I've only had the bike for 8 months. Hope it's just the oil pressure switch and not something more involved. Good thing is this all happened close to home and I've not run it for more than 1/4 mile since light came on so chances of any permanent damage is very low.

Might just take the opportunity to get the DPS replaced while in the shop too. Kill two birds. I'll reply when a solution is found. No fault codes just has me puzzled.

UPDATE: P 1520 code popped. ??

 

[NancysToy]

As Doc said, this is an indicator of a bad Oil Pressure Switch, provided the engine is running quietly and normally, indicating good oil pressure. The dealer should run a wet pressure test to make sure...and there are some tests of the switch and circuit that he can do. The missing is because low oil pressure will put you into limp mode. The rpms are limited.

 

[pierrelogic]

Yes, running quietly and normal at idle. So I busted my first limp mode. Now I feel like a real Spyder ryder. :roflblack:

At least this is repairable. I'll be back on the road in no time. ray:

Thanks everyone!!!

 

[pierrelogic]

Here-

Thank you HDXBONES! If nothing else this shows me where in the manual to find all the codes. :thumbup: Couldn't find them with a simple doc search.

 

[Firefly]

Sure sounds like oil pressure switch.

I replaced mine--- $9 part and 10 minute install.

 

[WackyDan]

Sounds like the sensor, but when mine went the Spyder ran normal through the entire RPM range.

 

[pierrelogic]

The saga continues....

Yesterday I had some time to work on the Spyder. This is fast becoming one of my favorite hobbies besides riding it...anyways. I pulled off both the left and right side tupperware. After reading the shop manual I concluded I could at least perform the circuit test on the EOP switch and while I'm at it check the air filter, etc. When I got the right panels off there clearly was some dampness noticeable on the bottom plate.

Tracing where the dampness was coming from I noticed there's oeticker clamps everywhere the coolant is routed...except one (I do on occassion lose just a little coolant but not like having a pinhole in the overflow). The hose coming directly from the overflow into the engine has a worm clamp and sure enough it was a little loose. That's is directly above the EOP switch so when it leaked at the hose gravity took it directly to the EOP. That's is also where most of the dampness was located on the bottom plate and no surprise the EOP switch was soaked. So tighten up the clamp, clean out all the dampness on the right side of the engine and then did the curcuit test on the EOP. Sure enough, when grounded it came on, when ungrounded it goes off. I did plug it back in and get the light to stay off long enough to take it out for a quick ride and it stays off...until I got home.

There's still a chance it could just be a loose wire on the connector to the EOP switch and after talking with the wrench turner at the dealership they will perform the wet sump pressure test, the continuity test and in doing so may discover it's just a loose wire, especially if the BUDS shows a circuit problem. So I may have the Spyder back in 1 day or as much as a week to get the EOP switch shipped from BRP. Taking it in tomorrow.

Bottom line, I have learned everything happens for a reason and when checking things on my Spyder I need to check all sides more often for little things like loose clamps/wires and anything strange like dampness where it shouldn't be. This has been a good lesson for me....maybe others who work on their own machines too. :thumbup:

Question: Since I'm technically in limp mode when others get this does it show on the console display? It never has on mine...so far.

 

[boborgera]

Tracing where the dampness was coming from I noticed there's oeticker clamps everywhere the coolant is routed...except one (I do on occassion lose just a little coolant but not like having a pinhole in the overflow). The hose coming directly from the overflow into the engine has a worm clamp and sure enough it was a little loose. That's is directly above the EOP switch so when it leaked at the hose gravity took it directly to the EOP. That's is also where most of the dampness was located on the bottom plate and no surprise the EOP switch was soaked. So tighten up the clamp, clean out all the dampness on the right side of the engine and then did the curcuit test on the EOP. Sure enough, when grounded it came on, when ungrounded it goes off. I did plug it back in and get the light to stay off long enough to take it out for a quick ride and it stays off...until I got home.

.

:dontknow:
It could be that the antifreeze leaking on the switch shorted it out.
That worm clamp has loosen on quite a few Spyders, mine included.
Maybe that's why a lot of switches went bad?

 

[Firefly]

The saga continues....

Yesterday I had some time to work on the Spyder. This is fast becoming one of my favorite hobbies besides riding it...anyways. I pulled off both the left and right side tupperware. After reading the shop manual I concluded I could at least perform the circuit test on the EOP switch and while I'm at it check the air filter, etc. When I got the right panels off there clearly was some dampness noticeable on the bottom plate.

Tracing where the dampness was coming from I noticed there's oeticker clamps everywhere the coolant is routed...except one (I do on occassion lose just a little coolant but not like having a pinhole in the overflow). The hose coming directly from the overflow into the engine has a worm clamp and sure enough it was a little loose. That's is directly above the EOP switch so when it leaked at the hose gravity took it directly to the EOP. That's is also where most of the dampness was located on the bottom plate and no surprise the EOP switch was soaked. So tighten up the clamp, clean out all the dampness on the right side of the engine and then did the curcuit test on the EOP. Sure enough, when grounded it came on, when ungrounded it goes off. I did plug it back in and get the light to stay off long enough to take it out for a quick ride and it stays off...until I got home.

There's still a chance it could just be a loose wire on the connector to the EOP switch and after talking with the wrench turner at the dealership they will perform the wet sump pressure test, the continuity test and in doing so may discover it's just a loose wire, especially if the BUDS shows a circuit problem. So I may have the Spyder back in 1 day or as much as a week to get the EOP switch shipped from BRP. Taking it in tomorrow.

Bottom line, I have learned everything happens for a reason and when checking things on my Spyder I need to check all sides more often for little things like loose clamps/wires and anything strange like dampness where it shouldn't be. This has been a good lesson for me....maybe others who work on their own machines too. :thumbup:

Question: Since I'm technically in limp mode when others get this does it show on the console display? It never has on mine...so far.

Glad you're tracking it down. If you have trouble getting a pressure switch --- let me know-- I think I have an extra.

 

[NancysToy]

Yes, limp mode shows on the display. Not sure why yours did not, since it was apparently rpm limited. I'd wonder a bit about coolant getting on the ignition wiring or plug wires, causing the rough running. BTW, a loose wire is unlikely to cause the warning, since the switch is open at normal oil pressure. More likely corrosion in the connector or an intermittent switch. The shop manual says to replace the switch if everything tests OK but you still get the warning.

 

[pierrelogic]

Yes, limp mode shows on the display. Not sure why yours did not, since it was apparently rpm limited.

Mystery solved Scotty.

While in the shop they replaced the DPS, the EOP switch and did 2 software updates (1 for ECM and one for console). The console update would explain why the limp mode didn't display before. How do I know? Because after having everything done I took it out for a spin. (tell me if this sounds familiar?) After about 5-6 miles down the freeway the Spyder console lit up like a Christmas tree. Lmp mode showed up on the console.

3 codes were thrown:
C0051 - DPS / defective steering angle (etc.)
P2545 - ECM / VSS failure plausibility error (etc.)
U0122 - DPD / VCM Comm fault

Also while limping to the dealer the ABS light came on. I did get that to reset on my own.

Limped it back to the dealer, we hooked it up to the BUDS and we both checked all the connections, recalibrated the DPS and flushed all error codes. They seemed eager to allow me to participate which was a genius decision on their part. Took it out for an even hard ride (spinning back wheel in the snow to test VSS, railed it up on two wheels several times, kicked in the ABS on snow covered parking lot (for the first time I might add)...basically ran it through the gauntlet of the errors I had before the DPS recalibration.

Runs just like my well oiled machine used to before the EOP swtich failure. :thumbup: Now I'm back on the road, confident in the machine & playing stud poker with old man winter.

Lesson learned? Proper calibration pretty important when swapping out the DPS. I give props to ASK powersports for the way they handled this situation. This gets them off my "dung" list and headed in the right direction as far as their reputation goes in my book. The only complaint I have is with BRP itself. 4 years now into a production model...really is no excuse for the extended time to ship parts. All excuses aside, 7 working days on a $10 part is excessive.

I call it like I see it.....

PS - sorry for all the info here but I'm compiling all the details for posterity.

 

[SpyderWolf]

Glad to hear they got everything sorted out for you after the limp mode situation. Best of luck getting in some good ryding time. :thumbup:

 

[wyliec]

Glad everything is okay.

It's funny how sometimes you can get a part from BRP quickly and then someone else is stuck waiting a week for the same part.

The dealer checked my spyder on one Tues. and determined it was a bad OPS. They called on Thurs. (of the same week) to let me know it was in. Had it installed that Friday.