happyspyder2039
Active member
send a message to BajaRon. He is the go to for oil stuff. Amsoil is my preferred now. I waited until 7500 miles to switch
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Oil - Full Synthetic or Synthetic Blend??
- Thread starter lilwill
- Start date
BajaRon
Well-known member
Interesting. This oil is not JASO rated. Nor is it recommended for wet clutch applications. If you have clutch issues, I wouldn't let BRP know what you are using. This will definitely void whatever warranty you might have on your clutch.
BajaRon
Well-known member
Synthetic is better. Blended is cheaper. Both will work. But Synthetic will work better.
Mikey
Well-known member
We have such an influx of new members on this site now, that don't want to do a search on subjects like oil and tires these old post get dragged out of the weeds and brought back up it's almost funny!!! 
You almost want to tell them to start a new post-question so we can read some new text!
You almost want to tell them to start a new post-question so we can read some new text!
troop
Well-known member
Plus.. There is no industry standard on the amount of synthetic content in blended/partial synthetic oils. You never know what you get
hogmemberisold
Member
First, it doesn't have to be JASO rated according to the owners manual, and what would say it's not recommended for wet clutch? My research shows it'll be fine...
troop
Well-known member
I'm guessing it would work just fine. SN rated and no Energy Conserving star on the API service label.
EdMat
Well-known member
Just don't mention that it is also rated for diesel engine service.
troop
Well-known member
Well, so is Rotella T6 5W40, and it meets JASO MA/MA2?
Gwolf
Well-known member
Not just because it is synthetic, and that is a plus, but also it is for motorcycles and says so on the bottle, it is made in USA, and it is safe for wet clutches. been using it a long time, never had a problem. Use whatever you want to, as long as it is safe for wet clutch. They all slick. I looked up the secret code on the front of the bottle once, but don't remember what it said. Another reason I use it is because I can get it at a reasonable price by the case and don't have to call around every time I need some to see who the Amsoil dealer is this month. I used the Lucas in the engine of the Sportster, but ran Ford ATF fluid in the primary and gearbox because I had a Barnett Scorpion clutch in it.
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TheMariner
Active member
The Owners Manuals are renowned for being contradictory and sometimes inaccurate. Below are 2 captures from the Manual for my 2017 F3 SE6. One specifically says not to use oil that isn't designed for wet clutch, but then goes on to say JASO-MA may be used as an alternative? The other says the oil must be API SJ, SL, SM or SN and JASO-MA.
You are correct... there's nothing to say an oil must say it isn't recommended for a wet clutch. Some oil chemistry is OK for wet clutch, but the Oil Company hasn't felt the need to pay for the testing to have it certified. If you are satisfied this is the case with your choice of oil, then go right ahead.
However, without the Oil Company confirming this, with the risks involved & the contradictory information in the Owners Manual, why would you take the risk?
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Save pennies on oil and risk dollars for repairs. The cost to replace a Can-Am Spyder clutch generally ranges from $1,500 to $2,500 or more, though the total can vary widely. The final price depends on the specific model, the clutch type (manual or semi-automatic), and whether you use a dealership or an independent mechanic. (Just a quote from Google.)
Wdaniels
New member
To the original oil - Full Synthetic or Synthetic Blend I noticed at the dealership ship the BRP kits that I have been using has changed to Full Synthetic. I inquired to why it was harder to find the blend and he said that the blend is fading out to the full. I personally use the kit and I change my oil under 5,000 miles, but that is just me. I know some that go to 10,000 miles with no issues and the oil is still good. If I chose that route I would change the filter at 5,000. Now that's just my personal preference. All I know is these things were made to be enjoyed. Freedom of the open road.
Gwolf
Well-known member
It is not just you. I change the oil and filter at 5,000 miles, no matter what the time between changes is. If the time is one year and I rode 10,000 miles then it got changed twice. One reason is in Florida we ride all year long. There is no down time. Another reason, it is very hot here and city traffic, which I try to avoid, and high speed limits on the Interstate Highways expose the oil to more heat than cooler climates and the heat breaks the oil down faster. I don't trust oil to run 10,000 miles and still be 100%. Yes, they are water cooled, but the circulating oil has to carry the heat from the internal parts of the engine out to the water jacket and works harder in hot climates.
I'm definitely not a computer guru, but here's the basic difference between conventional oil and synthetic oil. It's the consistency of the size of the balls (molecules). How do they separate it? He!! I don't know, but they say they can. And I'm sure they throw in a little salt and pepper (additives) to make it smell good, along with a lot of song and dance. Either you get all the same sized balls (synthetic) or different sized balls (conventional). The main thing is to keep your oil as clean as possible because it doesn't wear out, it simply gets dirty. Yes, I used to change my oil at 3k miles for years, and I guess I threw away a lot of good oil. Oil back then was .80 cents a quart.
BajaRon
Well-known member
This is part of the equation. This addresses the fact that there is an ideal molecule size for oil. This ideal size is very stable and resists destruction from outside forces like gears in your transmission, heat, etc. It also flows better in cold conditions than the random sized molecules in non-synthetic oil.
The larger balls, if you want to call them that, are not stable and break easily. This is why the blended BRP oil breaks down to 20 weight at about 5,000 miles in the Rotax engines used in Spyders.
There are 2 ways to achieve 'Synthetic' status in the USA. One is to refine the oil to select out the ideal molecule size. This produces a higher quality product, but is a more expensive process. The other way is to introduce an additive package to standard mineral oil (your random ball sized product). This additive package is designed to help prevent the breaking down process in the larger balls. Once the additive package goes away, the weak molecules don't last very long.
Amsoil is one of the few products that continue to use the refining method to get their synthetic product. These do not normally need an additive package to produce superior results. Or, if they decide to use one, it is a very small component.
Gwolf
Well-known member
I will still change mine every 5,000 miles and all the broken balls and all the sludge can go out the drain holes and be turned in for recycling.
I think they use it in one of the fast food places to cook french fries.
Ain't gonna worry about a $50 oil change on a machine that cost over $20,000 new.
I think they use it in one of the fast food places to cook french fries.
Ain't gonna worry about a $50 oil change on a machine that cost over $20,000 new.
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I run Amsoil 10w40, which I like. Does that mean I have large and small molecules?
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