Oil for spyder

[boogllasti]

I think the problem is that many won't pay close enough attention to the actual specs (as evidenced out here many times) and will just fill her up with any 5W40 Synthetic oil. Then they will have clutch slippage problems.

Also, there really isn't any 'cheap' synthetic oils - not much under $5 a quart.

The last place I would buy anything, especially oil, is wally world.

Buy from your local dealer or smaller shop - they can use the money more than the Walton family.

 

[SpyderMark]

I think the problem is that many won't pay close enough attention to the actual specs (as evidenced out here many times) and will just fill her up with any 5W40 Synthetic oil. Then they will have clutch slippage problems. Also, there really isn't any 'cheap' synthetic oils - not much under $5 a quart.

Sigh....... Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5W40 meets or exceeds all BRP specs, contains no friction modifiers to interfere with wet clutch operation and is available for approx $17 per gallon.

The last place I would buy anything, especially oil, is wally world.

Is that because the oil Wal-Mart sells is not as good as oils sold elsewhere? If you believe this to be true please share your reasoning.

Buy from your local dealer or smaller shop - they can use the money more than the Walton family.

Ahhh. Might I infer from this comment it's not perhaps a recommendation based on your perception of the quality or suitability of the product, but rather one based on your value judgement of the reseller?

My local motorsports dealer gets all my warranty work (for the next five years!), and the service jobs I can't do myself. And almost invariably, when I go to the shop, I end up buying accessories or riding gear (which I often don't need). In this regard, I believe I'm satisfying my (perceived) obligation to be a "good customer" by supporting my dealer.

Personally, I don't have a problem with Wal-Mart. The Waltons sell a lot of good products (as well as a lot of crap) at reasonable prices. The Waltons don't, however, sell motorcycle accessories or apparel, so I'll continue to obtain those from my local shop (whether I need them or not).

Besides, 90 percent of the time, my local Wal-Mart Supercenter has everything I need. That means I can complete all my shopping at one location, rather than drive to umpteem different places while wasting my $4.00/gallon gas (which I usually get at the local Wal-Mart station, because it has the best price in town). Doesn't promoting conservation, reducing our dependence on foreign oil and reducing environmental pollution make Wal-Mart a good corporate citizen?

Now if I could just get a good Suomy helmet at Wally-World...

Regards,

Mark

 

[boogllasti]

Like I said - people can, will and have been confused by thinking ANY 5w40 synthetic oil will work.

To simply state 'Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5W40 ' will work *may* cause issues as it has been mentioned there are TWO versions of this oil - 'white jug' and 'blue jug' and that one has the modifiers and the other doesn't.

I cannot say either way as I've never looked at the Rotella product except from what has been said out here.

I think it would be more appropiate to list the exact product with all specs and codes so that people don't buy the wrong thing.

As far as walmart goes, my choice to not shop there has nothing to do with product quality. It has to do with big corporate strongarm tactics and wanting to support the local economy instead of lining the pockets of the Waltons.

It's not just Walmart I avoid. I like to spend money at my local hardware instead of Menards or Lowes. The owners of the local shops live in my town and pay local taxes.

If you really want to learn more about how Walmart operates in their mafia-style corporate ways, watch this movie:

Wal-Mart: The High Cost of Low Price

http://www.walmartmovie.com/

End of rant!

Ride on - past the Walmart------

 

[BeRight]

I think they should ban oil threads from motorcycle, car and Spyder forums. Yet another oil thread - on motorcycle forums they argue about what is the best oil over and over again.

The Spyder owners manual specifies the type of oil required for the Spyder and does not pick a brand, other than they offer there own brand also.

Pick any brand that meets the specs in owner manual (several brands meet these specs - some expensive some cheaper) and go out and ride more:cheers:

 

[NancysToy]

Per the owners manual:

Use BRP XP-S 5W40 synthetic oil
(P/N 293 600 039) or an equivalent motorcycle
oil meeting the requirements
for API service SL, SJ, SH or SG classification.
Always check the API service
label on the oil container.​

NOTICE To avoid damaging the
clutch, do not use a motor oil meeting

the API service SM or ILSACGF-4

classification. Clutch slippage will
occur.​

I would also add not to use any oils labeled as "Energy Conserving" because they will also cause clutch slippage.

-Scotty​

 

[spyder13]

I use amsoil 0W40 in mine. 11k on it no problems

 

[bjt]

As far as walmart goes, my choice to not shop there has nothing to do with product quality. It has to do with big corporate strongarm tactics and wanting to support the local economy instead of lining the pockets of the Waltons.
Ride on - past the Walmart------

Amen brother. I refuse to buy from Walmart and Sam's Club.

 

[SpyderMark]

To simply state 'Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5W40 ' will work *may* cause issues as it has been mentioned there are TWO versions of this oil - 'white jug' and 'blue jug' and that one has the modifiers and the other doesn't.

Actually, this point has already been discussed at length; neither version of this oil contains friction modifiers. The latest iteration of Shell Rotella T Syn 5W40 comes in a white jug and meets API's SM service standard. BRP specifically recommends oil meeting the earlier API SL standard.

There are only two reasons I can think of that BRP recommends API SL oil specifically:

1. The new API SM standard requires the inclusion of friction modifiers for oils 30 weight and below intended for use in gasoline engines.
2. The API SM standard calls for a reduction in anti-wear additives in oils intended for use in gasoline engines because these additives adversly affect catalytic converters.

Since clutch slippage is specifically mentioned, I infer BRP is more concerned with number one. I happen to be more concerned number two (I'm not sure that came out right... uh... maybe I should quit while I'm behind...), but that's a different discussion.

Your statement above refers to early speculation by some forum members that the latest version of Shell Rotella T Syn 5W40, since it meets API SM service standards, is not suitable for use in our Spyders because it might cause problems with our wet clutches. A little research on Shell's website has shown this NOT to be the case. In fact, Shell Rotella T Syn 5W40 (both white and blue jugs) contains NO friction modifiers, retains ALL of the anti-wear additives of its predecessor and is perfectly suitable for use in wet clutch applications. Shell can say this oil meets API SM standard because this oil is not 30 weight or below, nor is it intended primarily for use in automotive, gasoline engines. These (and other) factors allow Shell certain exemptions from the API SM standard.

Incidentally, oils manufactured and marketed specifically for the motorcycle market are also exempt from meeting ALL the API specs for the same reasons cited above. There are many "motorcycle" oils with special additives which would preclude their meeting API service standards had they been marketed specifically for automotive, gasoline engines.

Pick any brand that meets the specs in owner manual (several brands meet these specs - some expensive some cheaper) and go out and ride more

Hear hear!

Regards,

Mark

 

[boogllasti]

Well, I see your point - but the fact of the matter is (from your own text) that the Shell Rotella T Syn 5W40 meets API's SM service standard. BRP specifically recommends oil meeting the earlier API SL standard.

This tells me that it clearly does NOT meet BRP's requirements - and you *could* have issues - warranty or otherwise.

You may be 100% correct in that it will work fine, but the BRP legal team would certainly point a finger at that SM rating should you have engine failure.

Per what Scotty said:

Use BRP XP-S 5W40 synthetic oil
(P/N 293 600 039) or an equivalent motorcycle
oil meeting the requirements
for API service SL, SJ, SH or SG classification.
Always check the API service
label on the oil container.​

NOTICE To avoid damaging the
clutch, do not use a motor oil meeting

the API service SM or ILSACGF-4

classification. Clutch slippage will
occur.​

 

[SpydeeBite2]

I have read all responses and now my head hurts.

 

[zzneonzz]

I have read all responses and now my head hurts.

:agree: i'll just pay the extra and stick with the BRP oil

 

[SpyderMark]

You may be 100% correct in that it will work fine, but the BRP legal team would certainly point a finger at that SM rating should you have engine failure.

Right, assuming the engine failure is thought to be oil related -- which seems extremely unlikely given just about ANY oil you use (short of one that causes clutch slippage) is gonna work just fine for the length of the warranty assuming one follows the (really short) 3,000 mile change schedule.

We all pick and choose which Operator's Guide recommendations to follow, and which not to. How many of us actually ride around with the shocks on the middle setting and the tire pressure at 14 psi in the front with just the rider aboard (no luggage or baggage)? How many of us plan to replace tires with the BRP recommended Kendas?

If one were to have an accident related to vehicle control with the suspension and tire pressures settings at other than those recommended, or with other than the recommended Kenda tires installed, would those factors affect the outcome of a lawsuit?

Oil standards can be very confusing, and most choose not to take the time to sift through all the info available -- indeed many find that to be tedious. For them, using the manufacturer's recommended oil will most certainly bring some peace of mind. For those of use who enjoy furthering our personal knowledge, doing the research and reaping the financial reward (however minimal) is a fulfilling and satisfying endeavor.

For the others -- those who take advantage of the knowledge gained through others' research to save a buck -- rest assured Shell Rotella T Syn 5W40 will serve you well for much less than BRP's branded oil.

Regards,

Mark

 

[boogllasti]

Well, guess we'll just have to disagree on this one - and I realize you are probably 100% correct that your oil may work just fine - I'm just a 'by the book' kind of guy. If you were recommending an oil that met all of the BRP specs - then I would have ZERO arguement.

It would have been nice of BRP to actually list some other oils that would work.

Has anyone found one that actually meets all of the BRP specs?

I believe Lamonster had clutch slippage issues using a non-brp oil.

Never heard much more about that issue.

 

[Latemarch]

I believe Lamonster had clutch slippage issues using a non-brp oil.

Never heard much more about that issue.

Lamonster pulls a trailer :shocked: but of course that wouldn't have anything to do with clutch problems

 

[BeRight]

I have the 1 us gal/3.785L blue jug Shell Rotella T synthetic SAE 5W-40 here in front of me.

Back of jug upperish right corner: "Meets API service CI-4 plus, CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, CG-4, CF-4,CF/SJ,SL."

Compare the above to BRP Spyder owner's manual on page 84 (note the API service is an OR function in BRP's sentence for oil type to use.

Seems very clear to me that this oil meets BRPs requirements and is available at numerous auto stores and Wal-Mart.

 

[boogllasti]

So it seems the BLUE jug Rotella is SL rated - which would be okay.

The WHITE jug (according to Mark) is SM rated - which *could* be a problem.

So does Rotella really come in 2 flavors? SM and SL ?
Are they getting rid of the SL and switching to the SL?

My Spyder manual doesn't have oil info on page 84 - it is on page 82.
Word for word, here is what mine says:

Use BRP XP-S 5W40 synthetic oil (P/N 293 600 039) or an equivalent motorcycle oil meeting the requirements for API service SL, SJ, SH or SG classification. Always check the API service label on the oil container.​

NOTICE To avoid damaging the clutch, do not use a motor oil meeting
the API service SM or ILSACGF-4 classification. Clutch slippage will
occur.


I do not see where BRP uses the word 'OR' pertaining to the API rating - except when it is talking about what not to use.


Is the horse dead yet? Did it drink the wrong kind of oil?

 

[BeRight]

API service SL, SJ, SH or SG classification - - this is the or I referenced.

Plenty of blue jugs at my wal-mart.

 

[sleepman]

API service SL, SJ, SH or SG classification - - this is the or I referenced.

Plenty of blue jugs at my wal-mart.

What you've got in front of you is the old batch of Shell Rotella 5W40, they've changed their API service and it no meets SM.

I'm using Mobil 1 synthetic

 

[BeRight]

Sleepman, you could be right :dontknow:but wal-mart has always had blue and white jugs of rotella for a long long time (years not months).

I have no preferences for oil brands, just indicating what I have seen and continue to see.

O'K I promise this is my last oil post - over and out

 

[BAZMAN]

oil

i replaced my oil at 1000mi. since then i noticed that the engine oil light stays on longer. especially when the spyder spyder sits for a few days when i am out of town. amsoil sticks to the engine parts longer, i never have this problem with my vtx even when it sits for a few weeks.
if you want a cheaper priced oil you can buy mobil 1 motorcycle oil at wally world for about $8.75 a qt.
the only reason you need 5w40 wt. is if you are going to start your spyder outside at 10 below.
since amsoil sticks to the engine parts better, i am going to use it on my next oil change.
i don't like the sound of bare engine parts rubbing together at start up with the brp oil.