Oil Change Question

[BRPjunkie]

How much oil drains from the oil pan compared to the oil reservoir when you change the oil? The reason I ask, is when I was complaining to a guy who works at a cycle/marine shop, he said it would be easier to change the oil if I used one of those oil removal pumps to drain the reservoir rather than fight all the drain plugs. His theory is that changing every 3,000 miles with synthetic oil is overkill and what remains in the oil pan would not be a big issue when blended with new oil. He said full oil change service every other or every third time should be fine. Don't know if that makes any sense, but if it is feasible, it sure beats jack stands, breaker bars, crush washers, frying pans and and hour and a half of labor.

 

[tnfleming]

I couldn't get the drain plug off and i reasoned that it didn't matter since the se5 transmission filter and the reservoir drain are almost as low to the ground as the drain plug; ergo, very little oil goes unchanged. That's how i sized it up but Scotty's the man to say for sure.

 

[Donzo]

Well, as long as you are changing the oil filter also...that will get more of the oil out - I would guess that a 1/4 quart comes out of the oil plug on the motor - it is good to check the magnet on the motor plug also to see if you have any shavings etc.
I would suggest that you take the time and do it right - it took me a little less than an hour to do the whole job - remote tank, oil filter, and motor plug + refill. Every time will get faster.
IMO , with the cost of the Spyder and the cost of the proper oil.....cutting corners is not a good investment. You'll feel better zapping down the road knowing it's done right.
:spyder:

 

[NancysToy]

You may not like what I have to say, but since you asked...
Even with BRP's outrageous oil prices, oil is cheap. I don't believe in skimping on the oil change, any more than I believed that old crap about changing your oil filter every other time. In addition, it is important to pull the drain plug to clean any metal particles off the magnet, and also to inspect the oil for any water or particles that accumulate at the bottom of the tank or sump. My advice...don't cut corners here.

Also, the oil change does take a while, due to body panel removal, but I had no problem doing it with the Spyder on the ground. No jacks or other bothers. Metal oil drain pan fits readily beneath the Spyder, and catches everything. I use a small, ratcheting torque wrench for both plug removal and replacement, so leverage has never been a problem. I suspect a ratchet and hex socket would work as well. Just a cost of doing business for me, even with 23 motorcycles and a few collector cars. Time consuming, but I get a good night's sleep without the worry that I missed a problem. Think of it as spending time with your (tree-wheeled) child, and babying it a bit.
-Scotty

 

[Donzo]

I couldn't get the drain plug off and i reasoned that it didn't matter since the se5 transmission filter and the reservoir drain are almost as low to the ground as the drain plug; ergo, very little oil goes unchanged. That's how i sized it up but Scotty's the man to say for sure.

My first oil change found VERY tight plugs also....Use a vise grip on the end of the allen key, make sure the key is fully engaged and apply slow increasing pressure - it will break loose.
Worse case tap the vise grip handle with a small hammer while holding the allen key fully engaged in plug and applying pressure. You need to get this plug loose -- if you are worried go to your dealer and have them loosen the plug for you, and not re-torque so tight.

 

[BRPjunkie]

I like to hear what everyone says, that's why I asked. The guy who suggested it was simply saying that 3,000 was pretty short time for syn oil change and I could save some time. He did not suggest that I not use BRP oil. He did say first couple of oil changes may have some metal on drain plug, but if you are getting them every 3,000 mile, you better check where they are coming from. Lots of ideas out there and I just thought that I'd get a reaction on this one. We all like to save time and money, but not if it is ill advised in the long run.

 

[LDFIREWORKS]

syn oil should go lots longer than 3000miles in any bike more like 5000 depending on how you ride :2thumbs:

 

[kliff]

I like to hear what everyone says, that's why I asked. The guy who suggested it was simply saying that 3,000 was pretty short time for syn oil change and I could save some time. He did not suggest that I not use BRP oil. He did say first couple of oil changes may have some metal on drain plug, but if you are getting them every 3,000 mile, you better check where they are coming from. Lots of ideas out there and I just thought that I'd get a reaction on this one. We all like to save time and money, but not if it is ill advised in the long run.

In "normal" engine operation, yes, synthetic should last longer than 3000 miles.

BUT...there is a thing called "shear," where the oil molecules are litterally torn apart, and destroyed.... the main cause, gear trains(transmissions). Then there is the additional contaminants in most motorcycles scenarios, not seen in an engine only application. The CLUTCH. That's right, as it too wears, it's particles and contaminants are depositted in the oil.

Wanna play, live dangerously, experiment? Go For it.... I'll always maintain the recommended change intervals on ALL my sickles, and most often even speed up the frequency by 500 miles: 3000miles = 2500mile change

 

[swrafey2000]

I made a small set of ramps out of some old pieces of 4x4 post and rolled the bike up onto them.It gave me a lot more room to move around under the drain plugs.

 

[JR08SPYDER]

OIL

INSTEAD OF USING THE BRP OIL I USED THE MOBIL ONE SYTHETIC 5W-40 FOR HIGH PERFORMANCE DIESEL ENGINES, IT MEETS THE API RATING THAT BRP SUGGESTS AND IS COVERED UNDER WARRANTY BY BRP. IF YOU HAVE A SE5 YOU NEED TO CHANGE THE OIL AT 600 MILES FOR THE FIRST CHANGE, CAUSE THE TRANSMISSION WILL START STAYING ENGAGED IN FIRST GEAR MAKING THE BIKE WANA GO AWAY ON YOU. AFTER THE FIRST OIL CHANGE OPERATED GREAT AGAIN. ALSO ON SE5 YOU NEED TO CHANGE THE TRANSMISSION OIL FILTER AT THE SAME TIME AS THE ENGINE OIL FILTER AS THE WHOLE SYSTEM RUNS OFF THE SAME OIL. HOPEFULLY SOMEONE FINDS THIS HELPFUL. JR.

 

[Latemarch]

How much oil drains from the oil pan compared to the oil reservoir when you change the oil? The reason I ask, is when I was complaining to a guy who works at a cycle/marine shop, he said it would be easier to change the oil if I used one of those oil removal pumps to drain the reservoir rather than fight all the drain plugs. His theory is that changing every 3,000 miles with synthetic oil is overkill and what remains in the oil pan would not be a big issue when blended with new oil. He said full oil change service every other or every third time should be fine. Don't know if that makes any sense, but if it is feasible, it sure beats jack stands, breaker bars, crush washers, frying pans and and hour and a half of labor.

Slurping it out of the resevoir would be a great idea......but.
There is almost no way to keep the tube that does the slurping clean between oil changes. Oil just attracts dust and dirt. So the next time you place it in the resevoir to drain oil you introduce dirt :yikes:

Otherwise, a good idea if you also drain the sump....hey.....it's one less plug and washer and draining the resevoir wants to dump oil all over those undercarriage panels unless you remove them as well.

If you can keep the pump and tube clean between oil changes......go for it