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Oil Change - Parts

groundeffect

Registered User
Hi. Just want to verify that these are the parts I need for an oil change:




UPDATE: All parts you need to complete your own oil change, if order parts from your local Dealer:

Dipstick Oring: 709000218
Copper Washer (on oil tank): 70550056
Cover Oring: 420650500
Oil Filter: 420956745
Drain plug washer(engine): 420250640
Strainer Oring: 709000218 (yes, same part as dipstick oring)
plus oil of course (293600121).

Thanks.
 
Last edited:
Hi. Just want to verify that these are the parts I need for an oil change:


Oil Filter: 420956745
Dipstick Oring: 709000218
Copper Washer (on oil tank): 70550056
Cover Oring: 420650500
Drain plug washer(engine): 420250640


plus oil of course (293600121).
Thanks.
There is no good reason to replace the dipstick O-ring unless damaged. If you remove the strainer to clean or inspect it, as specified for the 1000 km service, you will need that O-ring, too. The SE5 requires an aditional filter and O-ring.

I do recommend that you have the dealer do the entire 1000 km service, despite the cost. This will go into their records and assure that you will have no hassles with warranty work further down the line. BRP considers the 1000 km (625 mi) service critical, and prefers to certify that it was done properly. If you decide to do part of it yourself, they may not be willing to sign off on the inspection document in the Owner's Guide.

I do my oil changes and a lot of work myself, but I have the dealer do the 1000 km initial service interval.
 
I'm not sure I trust the Dealer to perform the FULL maintenance that I would be paying for it they did it. So far they overfilled my oil tank and they also installed the 12V outlet in the trunk off the mark, so it does not line up with the trunk liner hole. I keep the velcro patch over the normal hole and I had to cut a hole myself in my new liner to make it fit. Clearly they did not use the 12V outlet installation, template.

Bit of a catch 22, as I want to stay within my warrant, but want to complete my own work and be thorough and be SURE it is done, and enjoy it while I do it.


Cheers.
 
If you remove the strainer to clean or inspect it, as specified for the 1000 km service, you will need that O-ring, too.

Scotty, is this the oring you are referring to:
In Image, annotated by square(4 - same o-ring as dipstick oring it seems)?

The strainer is in a circle (18)



Is that the strainer o-ring, it's nowhere near the strainer ;)

Cheers,
Dean
 
You found it. It could probably be reused if undamaged, but for a few cents, why take a chance. If I remember correctly, you don't check the strainer again until the 12k mile service interval.

Thanks.

The Oil Strainer O-Ring appears to be the same as the Dipstick O-Ring PART NUMBER: 709000218



You are correct. Oil Strainer should be checked at the 1000km (600mile) mark, next at 20,000km (12,000miles) or every two years, according to the 2010 RS SM5 manual.


Cheers.
 
Keep in mind that you may not need to change the O-rings and washers, after careful inspection, but you should have the spares available in case you need to replace one or all of them.
 
the MOST important Spyder accessory is . . . .

There is no good reason to replace the dipstick O-ring unless damaged. If you remove the strainer to clean or inspect it, as specified for the 1000 km service, you will need that O-ring, too. The SE5 requires an aditional filter and O-ring.

I do recommend that you have the dealer do the entire 1000 km service, despite the cost. This will go into their records and assure that you will have no hassles with warranty work further down the line. BRP considers the 1000 km (625 mi) service critical, and prefers to certify that it was done properly. If you decide to do part of it yourself, they may not be willing to sign off on the inspection document in the Owner's Guide.

I do my oil changes and a lot of work myself, but I have the dealer do the 1000 km initial service interval.
:agree: 1,000%

I'm not sure I trust the Dealer to perform the FULL maintenance that I would be paying for it they did it. . . . . . . . . .
Bit of a catch 22, as I want to stay within my warrant, but want to complete my own work and be thorough and be SURE it is done, and enjoy it while I do it.
Cheers.

. . . . a good service department.

If you don't trust them to even preform the basic tasks of the required 1st maintenance, you need to find one that you do trust.

If you are not satisfied with their work, you need to work with them to improve the quality of their work. If you are not capable of that or they are not amenable to that, reporting them to BRP may help, else, see the paragraph above.

My guess is that this is going to be hard for you. You come across as a very meticulous person with high and exacting standards. I agree with you, delivery of a vehicle overfilled with oil and not being able to follow instructions and templates (for your outlet) is a problem and those experiences can shake a person's confidence, but you need to work with them to correct this in such a way as to build your confidence AND their competence. How you approach this will be one of the most important factors in getting service to your standards. This will require work and effort on your part, but it is worth the investment if you ever have to have your Spyder in a shop for work that you cannot do.

If you cannot mutually get to a satisfactory relationship with them, and you cannot find a shop you can work with, you are going to find yourself in a corner someday where your only option is to sell your Spyder.

Tom
 
Tom, I appreciate your input, thank you.


I think what I will do is have a conversation/meeting (very tactful, but to the point) about the two issues I've experienced so far (oil overfilled and 12v outlet hole way-off for trunk liner). These are not big jobs... so yes, absolutely does shake my confidence in their abilities, to even simply read instructions, let alone things like valve adjustments, proper belt tension, wheel alignment, etc...


Once I talk with them and hear what they have to say, I will decide what I should do.

thank you.
Cheers.
 
I don't know what the Spyders are like now, but our 2008 had the marks for the 12V outlet embossed right on the trunk. Real hard to get too far off the mark. Our outlet is right on the money, yet the flap on the trunk liner doesn't come that close to matching. It takes quite a bit of a stretch to find the outlet once the flap is opened. Same with the toolkit or owners manual, to some extent. The problem is the trunk liner. It is hard to get the fabric to fit the contours of the trunk perfectly. perhaps the new trunk liners are made to fit better, but ours is not. Doesn't bother me in the least, just a little more work to get at things, that's all.
 
It was very clear that they did NOT use template(included in 12V installation instructions) or follow the instructions. The 12V outlet is about 4 inches away.


I do enjoy the trunk liner though, specially the tiedowns at the bottom. Helps keep groceries in good when I got for rides on the way home from the shop :)
:thumbup:


I don't know what the Spyders are like now, but our 2008 had the marks for the 12V outlet embossed right on the trunk. Real hard to get too far off the mark. Our outlet is right on the money, yet the flap on the trunk liner doesn't come that close to matching. It takes quite a bit of a stretch to find the outlet once the flap is opened. Same with the toolkit or owners manual, to some extent. The problem is the trunk liner. It is hard to get the fabric to fit the contours of the trunk perfectly. perhaps the new trunk liners are made to fit better, but ours is not. Doesn't bother me in the least, just a little more work to get at things, that's all.
 
It was very clear that they did NOT use template(included in 12V installation instructions) or follow the instructions. The 12V outlet is about 4 inches away.


I do enjoy the trunk liner though, specially the tiedowns at the bottom. Helps keep groceries in good when I got for rides on the way home from the shop :)
:thumbup:
That's a pity, and it sure would tend to erode one's confidence in the dealer. Whatever you do, I agree with Tom that you should talk to the owner about the problems. The tech will never learn unless he has the correct methods pointed out to him. Depending on the owner's, service manager's, technician's responses to your concerns, you can decide from there what to do...and where to take your future service work and parts/accessories orders.
 
That's a pity, and it sure would tend to erode one's confidence in the dealer. Whatever you do, I agree with Tom that you should talk to the owner about the problems. The tech will never learn unless he has the correct methods pointed out to him. Depending on the owner's, service manager's, technician's responses to your concerns, you can decide from there what to do...and where to take your future service work and parts/accessories orders.


Yep, that is the approach from here. I will likely meet with them next week, as I get a few more miles on and closer to the 1000km mark. I hope it works out with them, the other dealer is 4hours away.


thanks
 
Dean, best of luck in that conversation with your dealer. Hopefully they will actually want to improve and possibly welcome your input. Another interesting fact is after you have service done by the dealer, BRP will send you a JD Power survey card to fill out about your service experience. ;)

I have had excellent service from krb1945, on this forum, for buying the filter, copper washers, and o-ring, for the oil change. I don't know if the deal would be as good for him to ship it to you though. :dontknow:
 
Thanks for the note, SpyderWolf.


An update: I talked with my dealer today. I went in and sat down with him for about 15mins explaining the issues with the trunk liner (12v outlet hole off by about 4inchs - done by PDI dept) and the overfilled oil tank (by 12oz, done by PDI dept.). I mentioned I fixed both issues myself, by suctioning out the overfilled 12oz of oil 4oz at a time with a suction gun, rechecking the old the accurate way each time, to be sure I was right on. I also mentioned I cut a hole in my trunk liner to access the 12V outlet, and I'm leaving the velcro cover over the hole where the 12V outlet hole should have been cut.

He agreed, of course that this was not good and it never should have happened. I also agreed and asked he pass the points along to the PDI dept. (that there is a template that comes with the 12V outlet to place the mark for the hole in the correct place to line up with the trunk liner, AND I also mentioned the accurate way to check the oil, which is in the manual AND it is on a sticker on the oil tank).

Basically it was a really good conversation, tactful and satisfactory. I have an appointment scheduled for my Spyder to undergo it's 1000km maintenance checks by their head Spyder (BRP trained) mechanic. As a result of the two issues described above, I will be getting a major discount on the maintenance work labor and materials. Time will tell just how much, but I have faith there will not be any issue on that in that area. ;)


All in all, I was happy with the conversation, and I will drop in for my scheduled check-up soon. Here is to the start of building a good relationship with my local Dealer! :)




Cheers
 
Thanks for the note, SpyderWolf.


An update: I talked with my dealer today. I went in and sat down with him for about 15mins explaining the issues with the trunk liner (12v outlet hole off by about 4inchs - done by PDI dept) and the overfilled oil tank (by 12oz, done by PDI dept.). I mentioned I fixed both issues myself, by suctioning out the overfilled 12oz of oil 4oz at a time with a suction gun, rechecking the old the accurate way each time, to be sure I was right on. I also mentioned I cut a hole in my trunk liner to access the 12V outlet, and I'm leaving the velcro cover over the hole where the 12V outlet hole should have been cut.

He agreed, of course that this was not good and it never should have happened. I also agreed and asked he pass the points along to the PDI dept. (that there is a template that comes with the 12V outlet to place the mark for the hole in the correct place to line up with the trunk liner, AND I also mentioned the accurate way to check the oil, which is in the manual AND it is on a sticker on the oil tank).

Basically it was a really good conversation, tactful and satisfactory. I have an appointment scheduled for my Spyder to undergo it's 1000km maintenance checks by their head Spyder (BRP trained) mechanic. As a result of the two issues described above, I will be getting a major discount on the maintenance work labor and materials. Time will tell just how much, but I have faith there will not be any issue on that in that area. ;)


All in all, I was happy with the conversation, and I will drop in for my scheduled check-up soon. Here is to the start of building a good relationship with my local Dealer! :)




Cheers

:congrats:

Glad you were able to take a positive track and hopefully can build a good relationship with your dealer and service department.

I had them do the 600 mile and 6000 mile--- done the rest myself.... because I enjoy it.
 
Bite the bullet and...

let the dealer do the first service. Nancy's Toy Is 100 % correct let the dealer do the first service. The price is high but well worth it.

The only thing I would suspect the dealer might fudge on if they were to fudge on anything is the lubing of the fittings on the swing arms. You can generally tell if they have been lubed. Use a good flashlight and look to see if they are clean... you have been riding in the snow, ice and salt... if they look clean then take your finger and wipe the top of each one and see if you have fresh grease on them. You can reach them because I just did it and my hands are pretty large... that is why "she who must be obeyed" helps me get the tight fasteners.

Also you need a second filter. This one is for the HCM or Hydraulic Control Module. This is the filter that gets changed at the 600 mi or 965km service and then again at 12000mi or 19312km or 2 years which ever comes first.
Rotax pn for the HCM is 420256452 Filtre Huile*oil Filter Made in Italy.

Good luck on what ever you decide. /Ken
 
Last edited:
Hi. Just want to verify that these are the parts I need for an oil change:


Oil Filter: 420956745
Dipstick Oring: 709000218
Copper Washer (on oil tank): 70550056
Cover Oring: 420650500
Drain plug washer(engine): 420250640


plus oil of course (293600121).
Thanks.
I have found out that for maybe 10 to 20 bucks more that it is better to let the Dealer do the services! That way if something gets messed up its on them. My 1st service ran about 170 and they do more then just change oil. Also the 3000 mile one I did my self and took about 2 hrs. After that they told me the service would of been 110.00 I paid 90.00 just for the oil and filters. I do think your dealer should :bowdown:
 
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