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Oil and oil filters

T

terminal3k

New member
Hi,
Im in the process of changing oil and oil filters. The oil filters that i ordered look different to the old ones (apart from the one being the wrong size - aaarg). The old filters are paper and the new ones have a wire mesh around it, is this a problem?
Is it okay to use a different oil than what we buy from the dealers. A friend recommended that i use this oil i have bought: Castrol EDGE, fully synthetic 5W-40 is that fine to use?
Another (possibly big) problem is that when i took the plug out of the engine, attached to the magnet on the plug was a broken piece of metal. It looks like half of a thin ring, about 1cm in diameter :helpsmilie: so I'm very worried about that.

Thanks!
 
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Unless that oil is "Motorcycle" oil, rated JASO MA/MA2, its not the right kind and could potentially cause clutch slipping. Best to stick with any good brand name "motorcycle" oil. It can be partial synthetic or full synthetic. Most are 10W-40, although BRP does make a 5-40 full synthetic that is used mostly in winter.

The wire covered filters are a new version BRP came out with a year or so ago.

If you can, take a pic of the metal particle and save the particle in case you have a warranty issue. Hopefully, its something minor and won't cause you any problem.
 
If your bike is an SE5 there are two different size oil filters for the transmission. The short one is the original and the long one is the upgrade for longer change intervals. The oil filter was upgraded with the mesh but is the same size as original. The longer trans filter can only be obtained from Can Am (requires a longer cap that comes with the Can Am oil change kit) but the short one is made by the aftermarket. As stated before only use a motorcycle oil rated Jaso MA or MA2 for wet clutches. Keep a close eye for any more pieces of metal or noises from the engine. You may want to shorten your oil change interval to check for any more metal. If no more pieces you should be good.
Len
 
The new filters are the correct ones...the old, unreinforced ones are no longer available. The new transmission filter is longer. If you did not get the kit which also contains the new, longer cover, you will have to obtain the correct cover from your dealer. As was said, use an oil that meets BRP specs to avaoid clutch damage. Oils carrying an API-SM rating are unacceptable. BRP does require use of a full synthetic or synthetic blend motorcycle oil. They do not specify use of JASO-MA2 oils, but they are a good idea for the best clutch performance. Although they specify 5W-40, the use of 10W-40 oils meeting the other specs has not caused any problems. Use of an oil not meeting the BRP spec (like Castrol EDGE) can cause serious and expensive engine damage...get it out of there ASAP. Don't forget that the oil screen in the tank needs to be cleaned periodically, see your maintenance schedule. Be sure to have spare O-rings and crush washers (two different kinds) on hand. The old ones can often be reused, but you should have spares in case careful inspection of the old ones shows any damage. Remember that there is more to the periodic maintenance needs than a mere oil change. The maintenance schedule will tell you what else needs to be done. Your dealer may have to do some things.

The magnet is there to catch debris, but you hope to not see any big pieces...just small particles. I'd take the piece of metal to the dealer and ask his opinion. You may be fine, but it pays to double check.
 
Have to agree..!!

:agree: with all above..I have found the best deal is get the oil change kits on ebay. They come with all the parts needed for your oil change. Kits run around $65.00. Never priced it out by the peice but imagine it would be close or higher. Do check those peices found on the magnet out. You will always have small particles as all the parts wear in but larger chuncks should be checked out. :thumbup:
 
ulflyer said:
Unless that oil is "Motorcycle" oil, rated JASO MA/MA2, its not the right kind and could potentially cause clutch slipping. Best to stick with any good brand name "motorcycle" oil. It can be partial synthetic or full synthetic. Most are 10W-40, although BRP does make a 5-40 full synthetic that is used mostly in winter.

The wire covered filters are a new version BRP came out with a year or so ago.

If you can, take a pic of the metal particle and save the particle in case you have a warranty issue. Hopefully, its something minor and won't cause you any problem.
Click to expand...

Thanks for all your guys advise. Luckily i have not put the oil in my bike yet... Here is a pic of the metal piece. The USB is there for an indication of size.
.DSC_0128.jpg
 
Crush Washer good guess. You already said it's flat so that fits. Is it a copper color? Was there a crush washer on the drain plug when you removed it? If it is a crush washer, then put a new one on and move on. No harm done.
 
If it was stuck to the magnet it is not a copper crush washer. It is hard to tell from the picture, but it doesn't look like a piece of a thread, it looks more like a piece of a thrust washer. There are several in the transmission. The remainder was probably ground up or is jammed in the engine/transmission. I would be worried if it were mine. If your Spyder is still on warranty it is time to see the dealer. If not, you may get quite a few more miles before something happens, or it may never fail completely...or something could happen quite suddenly. One thing for sure, if you choose to continue to ride, use the best oil you can...it may prolong the life of your tranny.
 
wire support versus paper

I have been designing filter media for years and the wire back material is designed for higher pressures. Much more durable and with the wire the filter pleats will not collapse or tear under pressure. Most likely the wire backed material is a higher quality glass fiber filter media that is typically more efficient than paper. Also better under cold start conditions when the oil viscosity is high.

It was suggested to me by a dealer that some of the paper filters may have been collapsing which can cause a filter to go into bypass. They still sell the same paperfilter for some of their other engines.
 
OIL

NancysToy said:
The new filters are the correct ones...the old, unreinforced ones are no longer available. The new transmission filter is longer. If you did not get the kit which also contains the new, longer cover, you will have to obtain the correct cover from your dealer. As was said, use an oil that meets BRP specs to avaoid clutch damage. Oils carrying an API-SM rating are unacceptable. BRP does require use of a full synthetic or synthetic blend motorcycle oil. They do not specify use of JASO-MA2 oils, but they are a good idea for the best clutch performance. Although they specify 5W-40, the use of 10W-40 oils meeting the other specs has not caused any problems. Use of an oil not meeting the BRP spec (like Castrol EDGE) can cause serious and expensive engine damage...get it out of there ASAP. Don't forget that the oil screen in the tank needs to be cleaned periodically, see your maintenance schedule. Be sure to have spare O-rings and crush washers (two different kinds) on hand. The old ones can often be reused, but you should have spares in case careful inspection of the old ones shows any damage. Remember that there is more to the periodic maintenance needs than a mere oil change. The maintenance schedule will tell you what else needs to be done. Your dealer may have to do some things.

The magnet is there to catch debris, but you hope to not see any big pieces...just small particles. I'd take the piece of metal to the dealer and ask his opinion. You may be fine, but it pays to double check.
Click to expand...

I have been having great difficulty finding a correct type of oil. A local guy i know said he uses Shell Ulta 5w40, any comments on using that oil?
 
Magdave said:
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=9045375&contentId=7079435

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...google&utm_campaign=gpla&utm_content=99997734
Click to expand...

Im in south africa, this is what is sold locally: http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=9031524&contentId=7057798 --- here is the classification of the last one:

http://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPDS.nsf/Files/52704E2E37C8B7A780257B180020B177/$File/BPXE-955VUC.pdf

otherwise here are the specs for the shell ulta: http://www.shell.com/zaf/products-s...rs/find-right-car-oils/helix-ultra/ultra.html
 
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terminal3k said:
Im in south africa, this is what is sold locally: http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=9031524&contentId=7057798 --- here is the classification of the last one:

http://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPDS.nsf/Files/52704E2E37C8B7A780257B180020B177/$File/BPXE-955VUC.pdf

otherwise here are the specs for the shell ulta: http://www.shell.com/zaf/products-s...rs/find-right-car-oils/helix-ultra/ultra.html
Click to expand...

This shows 4T available in S.A. http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=9031524&contentId=7057798 :dontknow:
 
terminal3k said:
ah, but it doesnt have the power rs racing, thats why i thought it wasnt the same?
Click to expand...

Not sure but I can't see the ratings on your Shell to match BRP's requirement it seems things are a little different down there but follow the Owners manual recommendations and Jaso MA2 is the best for our transmissions. I would look at the Castrol Racing 4T to see what it is myself. :thumbup:
 
Magdave said:
Not sure but I can't see the ratings on your Shell to match BRP's requirement it seems things are a little different down there but follow the Owners manual recommendations and Jaso MA2 is the best for our transmissions. I would look at the Castrol Racing 4T to see what it is myself. :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Here are the specs for the shell: [h=3]Specifications and approvals[/h]


Because lubricants vary in quality, universal criteria are used to describe oil performance and usage. Shell Helix motor oils not only meet these increasingly demanding international specifications but usually surpass them. Shell Helix Ultra exceeds these specifications:

  • 5W-40 Viscosity grade. API SN/CF; ACEA A3/B3/B4; BMW LL-01; MB Approval 229.5; VW 502 00/505 00.; Porsche A40; RN0700; RN0710; Ferrari; Meets the requirements of FIAT 9.55535-Z2
  • 5W-30 Viscosity grade. ACEA A3/B3/B4; BMW LL-01; MB Approval 229.5; VW 502 00/505 00; Meets the engine test requirements of API SN/CF

 
terminal3k said:
Here are the specs for the shell: Specifications and approvals




Because lubricants vary in quality, universal criteria are used to describe oil performance and usage. Shell Helix motor oils not only meet these increasingly demanding international specifications but usually surpass them. Shell Helix Ultra exceeds these specifications:

  • 5W-40 Viscosity grade. API SN/CF; ACEA A3/B3/B4; BMW LL-01; MB Approval 229.5; VW 502 00/505 00.; Porsche A40; RN0700; RN0710; Ferrari; Meets the requirements of FIAT 9.55535-Z2
  • 5W-30 Viscosity grade. ACEA A3/B3/B4; BMW LL-01; MB Approval 229.5; VW 502 00/505 00; Meets the engine test requirements of API SN/CF
Click to expand...

But it does not show the Jaso rating nor does it show SL,SH,SG or SJ rating as called for in the OM
 
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