Ode to the torque wrench

[JCSMOKE]

Thank you trusty wrench, you put my mind at ease I just tighten until you click then click one more time. I use to go all hulk on a bolt until I met you now I have no stress or strain. I swear a lot less now, and I don't have to take the expensive bike in for repairs that I caused to be needed

 

[MikeinGA]

Thank you trusty wrench, you put my mind at ease I just tighten until you click then click one more time. I use to go all hulk on a bolt until I met you now I have no stress or strain. I swear a lot less now, and I don't have to take the expensive bike in for repairs that I caused to be needed

On a Spyder a torque wrench is a must. I have both a in/lb. and ft/lb. they have been in my tool box for ever and I replace them when a better/easyer one comes out. That's IMHO.


Mike

 

[SpydherLuv]

On a Spyder a torque wrench is a must. I have both a in/lb. and ft/lb. they have been in my tool box for ever and I replace them when a better/easyer one comes out. That's IMHO.


Mike

What sizes and ranges do you have? I have been wanting/needing a torque wrench, but have no idea which size and range to get?

 

[NancysToy]

If it is a ratcheting torque wrench, be sure to back off the adjustment all the way in storage, or the spring can take a set and you will soon be overtorquing your fasteners. Then you will be back to the dealer to repair the damage you caused. nojoke

 

[M109Dreamer]

Also, if at all possible you want to use the top 3/4 of range on the torque wrench. Some wrenches dont engage the spring at the lower end of the wrenches. Better to be at the top of the range of a TQ wrench than the bottom. That's why it is best to have torque wrench's that overlap in the range dept. Make sure you store them like Nancy stated above.

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2

 

[captblack]

You may need more than one. Proper use of the torque wrench would be to not use the lower and upper 20% of the range (ex. 0-100 lbs wrench, use for values 20 - 80 lbs). Engineers and QA folks will tell you to torque 1/3 of the value at a time but most people just go for the final number.

Remember, torque in not a measure of how tight the bolt or screw is but is measure of the stress on the threads (I used to work with some screws that were 4 in/lbs but you could do much more with a screwdriver ...).

Never "double click" - you risk over torquing. This can be critical for small fasteners. Although most have a reversing lever, never use the wrench backwards. One final hint ... torque values, for the most part, are calculated for straight 90 degree engagement of the fastener with no lubricant/locking agent. Using a swivel extension or crows foot will change the value. Depending on the fastener size, this could result in incorrect torque and possible tread damage or loose fasteners. All of this is more critical the smaller the fastener is and we have a number of very small screws to deal with, for sure.

Hope this helps.

 

[Bob Denman]

So my old beam-type torque wrench should be given a burial at sea??? :shocked:

 

[wyliec]

Never "double click" - you risk over torquing.

I was under the impression when the torque wrench clicks you've reached your setting; so, if you let loose and then torque again, you've once again reach your setting. You're saying, not true?

 

[NancysToy]

So my old beam-type torque wrench should be given a burial at sea??? :shocked:

It's already chrome...hang it on a wall as a decoration. :roflblack: A beam wrench is difficult to use. They require the user to be looking from directly above the scale. Not so hard with an engine on a stand, but a bear on a vertical oil filter housing a few inches off the ground, and impossible for an oil drain plug. I keep them around for checking calibration on my ratcheting wrenches, but I never use them for anything else anymore.

 

[captblack]

I was under the impression when the torque wrench clicks you've reached your setting; so, if you let loose and then torque again, you've once again reach your setting. You're saying, not true?

Although it clicks, you can still apply force to the fastener getting it to click again. I don't know how many times my guys had to redo torquing because QA would disallow the work because they clicked more than once.

The correct recommendation we used was to torque everything, then check it again in 10 minutes or so. This gives the metal time to relax and will not cause it to be over torqued. I have used this process on everything from small screws to large bolts with torques of over 400 ft/lbs.

As for a beam wrench, you have to use one to calculate running torque. For anything else, it can be very inaccurate and can cause torquing errors.

 

[Bob Denman]

It's already chrome...hang it on a wall as a decoration. :roflblack: QUOTE]
By golly; you're absolutely right! :shocked:

Maybe I can mount it on the Spyder...:thumbup: :roflblack:

 

[JCSMOKE]

along the muffler would look nice

 

[Tierhog]

I need one. Will look for a craftsman I guess. If it craps out, free replacement. I think they are around $150.00 for the 3/8 drive

 

[Bob Denman]

along the muffler would look nice

:2thumbs: :roflblack: :clap: