Now mine....

[ataDude]

Sounds cool ... let us know how it works!

...
I'm building a small insulated box to go around the race airflow setup, that will connect via ducts to dual vents I'm installing on the front of Spyder - for a cold-air intake setup. This will get cool air into the intake, keep the hot engine air away, and quiet the intake down a bit.

 

[0228lisa]

Always feel free to share mods!!!! LOL
I like the strut lights you used. The shape goes well with the bike, and like you said, the plastic is a spot on match!!!

Lack of feedback? Get your butt to Jacksonville! I'm with ya dude.:yes:

 

[Roaddog2]

This is a standard Vista Cruise / Yamaha-fit, throttle lock carved down to fit the Spyder. The Spyder's throttle sleeve has a ridge under the rubber which also must be filed off. I may install an AudioVox cruise unit later... none of these mods inflicts any permanent changes which are meaningful.

Did I say that I dislike the "universal" throttle locks with the ugly (IMHO) bar running across the top in plain view?

Installation instructions for the throttle lock are here:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=44887&postcount=51

The Grip Puppies assist in softening and enlarging the grips for comfort. All were "in stock" from other bike mods. I'll use these until I decide what to do for heated grips. They are, however, a "bear" to install even using soap and water.

:2thumbs:

 

[bjt]

This is a standard Vista Cruise / Yamaha-fit, throttle lock carved down to fit the Spyder. The Spyder's throttle sleeve has a ridge under the rubber which also must be filed off. I may install an AudioVox cruise unit later... none of these mods inflicts any permanent changes which are meaningful.

Did I say that I dislike the "universal" throttle locks with the ugly (IMHO) bar running across the top in plain view?

Installation instructions for the throttle lock are here:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=44887&postcount=51

The Grip Puppies assist in softening and enlarging the grips for comfort. All were "in stock" from other bike mods. I'll use these until I decide what to do for heated grips. They are, however, a "bear" to install even using soap and water.

I finally got this same throttle lock put on my Spyder the other day. Took a little bit of futzing around to get to where I think it works okay. I may still need some tweaking to the mount as the one screw in the bottom seems to force it to lean into the grip. As far as locking the throttle and ease of use, its great. If I don't have the mount dialed in by the time we meet in Oklahoma, maybe you can give me some tips. :thumbup:

 

[ataDude]

bjt... the key is to drill it only after you have it in the locked position...

I finally got this same throttle lock put on my Spyder the other day. Took a little bit of futzing around to get to where I think it works okay. I may still need some tweaking to the mount as the one screw in the bottom seems to force it to lean into the grip. As far as locking the throttle and ease of use, its great. If I don't have the mount dialed in by the time we meet in Oklahoma, maybe you can give me some tips. :thumbup:

 

[bjt]

Thanks, I think I did that. If not, its too late now as I have the hole drilled. Probably wouldn't be too good if I ended up with the Vista Cruise or my right control module looking like swiss cheese trying to get it 100%. I'm thinking of finding a piece of the 3M VHB tape and affixing it to the lower, stationary portion of the Vista Cruise and to the right controls. I think that'll do what I think I need. I'll see how it goes during the next few weeks as is. Right now, I have totally free throttle motion when the Vista Cruise is unlocked and it appears to hold the throttle rock solid when locked. I'll find out better when we take our first long trip of the season tomorrow. :thumbup:

ps. I don't know how many of these they make for different bikes and how different each one is but it appears that the one Vista Cruise they had at the dealership is the same one you had sitting in your garage... :f_spider: Looks to me like they could make a Spyder specific one by just making that tab with the screw mount longer to fit the Spyder's controls. There is a screw on the bottom of the controls that the tab could use.

 

[zzneonzz]

I just installed the vista cruise latnight on my Spyder. If you have the ISO/Flame Kuryakyn grips have the dremel handy. To get it to fit clush against the control mechanism you have to sand out part of the inner circle to fit over the large lip at the end of the grip. Works great though now that its complete took about 45 minutes to install.

 

[ataDude]

I'm a little slow... have had these on for more than a month, now.

Rear lighting doesn't get any better than this: the No Magic Neon Triple Play unit (with LED turn signal lights) and the NMN center LED light. This set-up is great! The turn and brake lights flash on/off three times when the brake is applied... if you so choose.

Visibility for those following is wonderful... this setup should remove any excuses of "I didn't see you..." except for the most negligent folks... as we read about on this forum just this week.

The install is relatively easy and includes dropping the center black plastic cover directly over the rear wheel... seven #30 Torx screws... the same that holds the rest of the plastic together.

If you can read and following directions, the total install time should be less than 45-60 minutes... tops.

On a scale of 1-10 (10 being difficult), the installation is a "2". All required wiring/plugs/taps are included.

 

[ataDude]

This week's entry is the No Magic Neon "Double Play" with LED turn signals... most excellent... more front end visibility to encourage the cagers to not turn in front of you. :clap:

Pic is at night, in my garage, with emergency flashers on.

.

 

[0228lisa]

I like seeing the mods...although one of them was way over my head. I've been on a spending spree since Doru, Forest and Mike came to help me put them all on. And they are even coming back to finish the project. Cool.hyea::2thumbs:

 

[ataDude]

Thanks. Glad the guys are getting some of yours done. Are you learning yet how to do some? Not hard.

.

I like seeing the mods...although one of them was way over my head. I've been on a spending spree since Doru, Forest and Mike came to help me put them all on. And they are even coming back to finish the project. Cool.hyea::2thumbs:

 

[0228lisa]

Thanks. Glad the guys are getting some of your's done. Are you learning yet how to do some? Not hard.

.

Let's see...."learning how to do some".....does refilling their drinks, grabbing my hair dryer and learning what a 1,1/8 hole saw count???pps:pps:pps:

I am totally dependent on them.:bowdown: Although I think I am going to attempt putting on the decals myself.:thumbup:

I left out Tim and Christie on the last post....Sorry Tim.

 

[ataDude]

The No Magic Neon LED brake lights are installed and they are awesome! They are considerably brighter than the stock incandescents (don't know by what factor)... and they're apparently designed to never trigger the nanny... even if the LEDs go south... which is highly unlikely for a very, very long time.

See the pic below... daylight in the garage... my buddy, the weed eater, is holding down the brake pedal.

Install hints... total time required was less than 30 minutes:

1. Remove the seven #30 Torx screws which hold the under-the-seat / over-the-tire plastic pan in place. Set the pan aside.

2. Remove the rear two plastic rivets (under seat) for both black side covers... the ones with the "Spyder" decals... if you still have the decals. Lightly pull the side covers away from the bike and block them to keep them away using rags or anything else you have handy.

3. Release the securing tabs and flip the tail cover up (you've already removed the one screw in (1) above).

4. Remove each tail light by removing the two #30 Torx screws. Both extend up with the Torx head facing down.

a. One is very easy to get to... the rear most, in the center... exposed by removing the cover in (3) above.

b. The second #30 Torx screw is a little harder to find... in the front of the taillight, somewhat high. I used a small mirror and flashlight to position the screwdriver with the Torx bit.

5. If you purchased just the LEDs (and not the entire assembly as I did), follow the NMN directions for bulb removal and LED insertion.

6. Reassemble in reverse order... except if you don't have extra hands to help, install the rear-most, center screw first on each side. There are two small positioning prongs which fit in a slot extending from the screw hole. I tried to re-install the forward/high screw first (to make it easier) and couldn't get the positioning prongs to then fit the slot on the rear/center screw.

Update: At night, these lights are really bright... very visible.

 

[0228lisa]

.... I've had these on for a month or more. I can only say:

How did I live without 'em? :clap: :clap:

.

Are they hard to put on? There isn't much visibility with the stock mirrors and when I have a 2 wheel motorcycle following directly behind me, I can't see him. :gaah: One of these days I'm gonna lose him accidently.

 

[ataDude]

Are they hard to put on? There isn't much visibility with the stock mirrors and when I have a 2 wheel motorcycle following directly behind me, I can't see him. :gaah: One of these days I'm gonna lose him accidently.

Nahh.. pretty easy. Follow the instructions that comes with them.

The "hard" part is grinding/filing on the little plastic "gap fillers" on the front to make them fit. They also have to be glued (RTV) back in. Some folks leave them off.
.

 

[0228lisa]

My wife and I are new here. Our spyder is on order. This is good stuff. Please keep posting.:shocked:

You'll love the forum for good information, good laughs and good friends.:congrats:welcome

 

[vt228]

FUZZ BOX

.I WANT TO NO WHERE TO GET THE FUZZ BOX SET UP AND HOW MUCH
MOST OF US WANT TO NO WHERE TO PICK IT UP PLEASEray: LET US NO THANK YOU DONNY VT228 :thumbup:

 

[ataDude]

I WANT TO NO WHERE TO GET THE FUZZ BOX SET UP AND HOW MUCH
MOST OF US WANT TO NO WHERE TO PICK IT UP PLEASEray: LET US NO THANK YOU DONNY VT228 :thumbup:

I had it for several years for another bike project before I used it on the Spyder. Don't remember where I purchased it from.

However, google "Blue Sea Fuse Box" and I'll bet you'll find it. It was originally designed for marine use.

.

 

[baldev]

Love your set up. Brilliant.

 

[vt228]

Accessory wiring:

To ensure that I didn't make the computer nannies mad, I ran an entirely new set of circuits (front to back) from the battery, through a relay, to a 30-amp Blue Sea fuse block mounted in the front compartment. The relay is activated by fuse three in the Spyder's standard front fuse block... therefore, all of my new circuits are on only when the ignition is on. An advantage to using fuse #3 is a built-in 15 second delay after the ignition is switched off.

As with all of these mods, I had the parts already "in stock" from other past bike projects. The Blue Sea box accommodates six fused circuits and six ground points. I'm only using three at this point... the Corbin heated seat will make four. All handlebar stuff (V1, GPS, etc) are low amperage and running on one circuit.

All wiring is run through plastic wiring looms available almost everywhere. I buy the looms from JC Whitney in boxes containing 100' each. :

Update: If I were to do this again, I'd mount the Blue Sea box not IN the front box but immediately behind it. Reason - if the luggage "box" needs to be removed, the "though-the-firewall" wiring complicates matters tremendously.
.

where did you get the box and could you get me one asap,,, pleaseray: