Not about the oil, about changing the oil

[z_light11]

How does everyone change the oil? F3 Level? Front wheels on a ramp? Entire F3 lifted?

Also, I believe I read somewhere here before the factory plugs are a T45 and a T40? Is that correct? I will be switching to dimple plugs with this oil change, but I still need to get the factory plugs out.

Thanks for the help!

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

ALMOST CORRECT

We both have the 1330 engine ........soooooooooooo the T45 is the large one in the engine. before you attempt to remove it...put the Torx socket in ( w/ extension ) and tap it mod hard with a hammer ....this will break the varnish seal :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack: . The plug is a 6mm HEX ...do the same as above .....it will come out very easy also.........The Torx is a B*tch so I bought a GOLD plug ( less expensive than DIMPLE brand & it has a very strong magnet too ).........good luck,....Mike :thumbup:

 

[Beachbum]

oil change

No need to lift the spyder at all. Aluminum foil baking pans (low profile) worked great for catching the oil. The drain plugs are very easy to get to. A 36mm oil filter socket is also a great investment. I also went to the dimple drain plugs, great product.

 

[Copperman]

I raise mine at all three points. Jack stands on the front and rear wheel goes on a 4 x 4 block of wood. It makes it a little easier getting underneath. Now, this is on an RT. I haven't changed my oil on my F3 yet.

The 36mm socket is a good buy, too. I bought a deepwell, but a standard size will work.

 

[JayBros]

I run the front wheels up on car ramps for more room under the Spyder and get all the oil out of the engine. The proof, 5 qt refill puts the oil level at proper temperature right where it's supposed to be. I agree too with Mike, switch to hex head plugs, Gold Plug or Dimple, your choice. I sprung for Dimples.

 

[Chupaca]

Have to agree...

BLUEKNIGHT911
:agree: He has you covered... I like to do it on the ground....only time I can lay down on the job...:roflblack:

 

[GaryTheBadger]

I do the oil/filter change without lifting the bike and I use Dimple plugs in all my bikes and my customers' bikes.
I actually had a hex bit shatter trying to remove an original oil plug on a customer's RT...it must have been put in with an air wrench.
Highly recommend replacing the OEM soft plugs ASAP.

 

[otter28169]

I use one of the larger paint pans (for rollers) to collect the oil in, it works really well.

Just sayin'............

 

[z_light11]

Thanks everyone. I have the Dimple plugs already and will def be making the switch when I do the oil change tomorrow.

One other quick question I had. The book says to change the oil with the engine warm. Do you guys go for a ride? Just let it idle for a few minutes? Basically, how does everyone warm their engine up before an oil change?

Thanks again for the help!

 

[cmarsala]

OIL Change

Thanks everyone. I have the Dimple plugs already and will def be making the switch when I do the oil change tomorrow.

One other quick question I had. The book says to change the oil with the engine warm. Do you guys go for a ride? Just let it idle for a few minutes? Basically, how does everyone warm their engine up before an oil change?

Thanks again for the help!

Ride it for about 10 miles or so, get all of the particles moving around in the oil, so they drain out..:2thumbs:

 

[JayBros]

Ride it for about 10 miles or so, get all of the particles moving around in the oil, so they drain out..:2thumbs:

Right on!

 

[z_light11]

Update

Well, the oil is changed and Dimple drain plugs installed! I bought an oil change kit from Bajaron. Very easy to do. The only complaint I have is the main engine oil drain plug location. When you pull the plug the oil hits the plastic cover around the engine and kinda sprays oil all over the place. Next time I will need to put some cardboard down before to make sure the little specs of oil aren't all over the garage floor again. Other than that, pretty smooth sailing.

Does anyone else's oil hit the plastic engine cover when draining?