:agree:
The only things on the Spyder I use the a torque wrench for are the wheels and the front sprocket bolt.
Me too. Several times.I changed my oil without jacking it up. :dontknow:
I hope i dont but i will check if there is a torq speck for it. By the way do you have the info of the bolts you purchased just in case?opcorn:
I just went out and check to see if i could get the allen in it i did get it in but it is over tightened and just started to round out so i'am taking it to the dealer and let them get it out but i have to wait till they get the new plug in should be friday. i will have them take the old one out save the oil put new one in then put the oil back in. I know someone might wonder why not just let them do the oil change and its because i have other things i want to do on the bottom and i bought the material already.
One of the worst things to use is a torque wrench. Especially a cheap one. They cause more headaches than good.
If you have a problem getting a plug let me know--- I have a few here.....
Well i think the reason for the torq spec is because of the copper washer ergo the 15lbs of torq. If mine was done correctly i don't believe i would have had a problem I do own a good torq wrench. Whats that old!!! saying i think scotty penned it :joke: "IF YOU WANT IT DONE RIGHT DO IT YOURSELF" but thank you anyway justin
Thank you firefly i spoke with my dealer told him the problem and he wants to make it right as i knew he would but if i need one i will let you know. :2thumbs:
Actually, I feel the drain plugs are one of the good places to use a torque wrench. I have seen far more drain plugs "freeze" from having an Armstrong torque wrench used, than ones that were tightened to spec with a good torque wrench, that has been properly stored and periodically checked for accuracy. Biggest cause of a faulty ratcheting torque wrench is failure to back off the spring tension before you put it away. The spring can take a set, and it will over-torque.
One of the other problems is reusing the "crush" washer. When used, a copper washer is compressed slightly. If you look at yours carefully, you may see the indentation from the drain plug. After a while, it becomes more dense, and it doesn't give much. This makes it "lock" into place, especially if over-torqued. I don't always replace the copper washers (except on a brake or clutch system), but I always inspect them and replace them if the are noticeably scratched or indented, or if they have been used a few times. They are relatively cheap...cheaper than drain plugs.
Just my 2¢.
I hope i dont but i will check if there is a torq speck for it. By the way do you have the info of the bolts you purchased just in case?opcorn:
By the way we checked Ron's plugs again and they are definitely Torx nojoke
All your panels are held on by #30 torxI have not found any torx on my spyder but my jeep is loaded with them and my can-am outlander has a few.There is nothing good about a torx.
By the way we checked Ron's plugs again and they are definitely Torx nojoke
Yeah, dead meat after that. I don't trust those L-shaped allen wrenches, either. They put too much force in a direction that wants to twist the hex out of the hole instead of turn it. I find a good hex head socket on a ratchet or ratcheting torque wrench to be more positive.:thumbup:
Your right Scotty, But in this case He chewed up the Allen head using a# T40
once it's damaged from the #T40 the 6mm Allen will just damage it more.
Yeah, dead meat after that. I don't trust those L-shaped allen wrenches, either. They put too much force in a direction that wants to twist the hex out of the hole instead of turn it. I find a good hex head socket on a ratchet or ratcheting torque wrench to be more positive.
After my first oil change I went out and bought a set of metric hex sockets.
All your panels are held on by #30 torx