Non-BRP Trailer Wiring for RT

[2NFrnt]

OK gang please share your ideas. I have a non-BRP trailer with the standard 4 wire harness that I have been trying to wire to my RT. I have the factory hitch and wiring harness including the bike to trailer harness. I have been using a Hopkins 3 to 2 wire converter (2 different ones and they are not powered). When I connect everything as outlined below I get the following results:

• Normal tail lights
• NO brake lights :yikes:
• When I turn on the turn signals (either side) both the RT’s tail lights flash (only the center LEDs, but I do have normal bike and trailer signal lights

Converter has the following wires:
White - Ground
Brown - Tail lights
Green - Right turn
Yellow - Left turn
Red - Brake light

Wiring is connected as follows:
Bike black to trailer white (ground)
Bike brown to trailer brown (tail lights)
Bike green to trailer green (right turn)
Bike blue to trailer yellow (left turn)
Bike red or orange to trailer converter red (brake light)

It doesn’t matter if the bike is running or not I get the above results. I also checked the individual wires on the bike trailer harness and they all seem to be functioning as they should and no fuses are blown or missing. The trailer wiring alone is fine when connected to my Dodge pickup thru the factory “flat 4” connector and all the lights on the trailer are LEDs. At this point I am ready to hang 2 more lights on the trailer and wire up individual turn signals, but I can not see the reason the above isn’t working. Any ideas? ray:

 

[spyryder]

This might help you:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22097&highlight=trailer+connector+wiring

 

[NancysToy]

There is a bit of information missing, before I could help further. You have not said how the Spyder is wired...either permanently to the converter, or via the BRP harness and trailer module, with an adapter cord. It sounds like your converter is not working, and is allowing the turn signals to cross connect through both brake lights. This may be due to the LED lights, which don't pull enough load on some converters for them to trigger properly. Solid-state converters can do some strange things, especially if they are unpowered.

One of the best tools for troubleshooting trailers that I know is a "universal" trailer adapter. This is a set of four separate wires, linked together. There are male and female connectors on each end, one can attach and test one wire at a time, or swap the connections if the plugs are wired differently. I bought mine at the local trailer service, and it has been very handy for stuff like this.

PM me and we'll swap vitals, so we can discuss this offline in more detail.

 

[sierraspyderman]

trailer connector

I had the same results when trying to use a five to four wire converter, so I just bought two amber oval LED lights and wired them for the left and right turn signals. The lights work O.K. now on my Harbor Freight Tag-Along trailer. It seems as if the voltage backfeeds through the adapter. I also have the Spyder RT 622 trailer plug wiring harness that I bought so that it would be a clean connection to the bike.

 

[2NFrnt]

I had the same results when trying to use a five to four wire converter, so I just bought two amber oval LED lights and wired them for the left and right turn signals. The lights work O.K. now on my Harbor Freight Tag-Along trailer. It seems as if the voltage backfeeds through the adapter. I also have the Spyder RT 622 trailer plug wiring harness that I bought so that it would be a clean connection to the bike.

Good to know I'm not the only one who tried this approach and didn't get it to work for them. After getting input from Scotty I arrived at the same conclusion you did. I now have 2 amber lights waiting to be installed for turn signals. BTW, I wonder if it could be something with the trailer now since I am also going with the Harbor Freight Tag-Along. Anyway you can't beat the price on them, got mine on sale and used a 20 percent off coupon and was out the door for less than $265.00. Will advise how it all works out after this weekend.

Sam

 

[clueless]

I guess your not worried about the 55 mph rating:

• 55-MPH maximum towing speed

http://www.harborfreight.com/600-lb-capacity-78-inch-tag-along-trailer-66771.html

 

[sierraspyderman]

You got the same deal I got on the trailer, and I decided tha since I saved so much on the trailer purchase I went ahead and bought the LED trailer light kit for $29.95 on sale. That way the is very little current draw for the lights, and they match the LED look of the bike. I don't think there is any issue with the trailer, just that the converter is not as isolating as it should be. If your amber lights are about the same size as the ones I used you might consider removing the plastic square plugs in the trailer frame on the back end and run the turn signal wires through the frame all the way to the tongue. That way the wires are hidden and protected, and then you can install the amber lights over the trailer frame end to cover everything up. I have used my trailer for the last three months, and we love it. It pulls so easy and looks so good behind the Spyder that many people think it was made for the bike.

 

[2NFrnt]

I guess your not worried about the 55 mph rating:

• 55-MPH maximum towing speed

No I am not worried by the lawyer language. I repacked the wheel bearings with some good high speed/high temp grease. I did a lot of looking on various motorcycle forums and you can't believe how many people are using these trailers without problems.

You got the same deal I got on the trailer, and I decided tha since I saved so much on the trailer purchase I went ahead and bought the LED trailer light kit for $29.95 on sale.

If your amber lights are about the same size as the ones I used you might consider removing the plastic square plugs in the trailer frame on the back end and run the turn signal wires through the frame all the way to the tongue.

I did the same on the LED lights and threw in a spare wheel, tire and mount to boot. I do plan to run all the wiring thru the frame, but I am mounting the 2 amber lights plus a third brake/tail light on the top half of the cargo box. Hopfully they will be in full veiw for the traffic behind me.

Sam

 

[2NFrnt]

For those that might be interested here is the finished project. Took it for a ride today and towed great and the lights work perfect. Plenty of power 2 up with 150 pounds in the trailer. Put some pics in the albums if interested. We don't think this is such a bad way to go especially at about 10 percent of the price of the RT 622 trailer. Would I rather have the RT 622 trailer :dontknow:, maybe, but for the 2 times a year we will use it this makes more sense to us.

Sam

 

[Roadkill]

+Excellent job.

Ride on.
Roadkill

 

[clueless]

+1 :2thumbs: excellent job

 

[Bad Dog6]

2011 RT Limited Bike to Trailer wireing

Has anyone installed a "bike to trailer" wire harness on an RT. Dealer wants about $800 for the harness and hitch installed on my 2011 limited? :dontknow: Is It worth having the dealer do it or is this something I could tackle my self. I am prettty handy with the mechanical things but not to hot on electrical.. Also looking for any videos that might show proper sequence to take the tuperware off. Thanks for any input you may have.

 

[NancysToy]

Has anyone installed a "bike to trailer" wire harness on an RT. Dealer wants about $800 for the harness and hitch installed on my 2011 limited? :dontknow: Is It worth having the dealer do it or is this something I could tackle my self. I am prettty handy with the mechanical things but not to hot on electrical.. Also looking for any videos that might show proper sequence to take the tuperware off. Thanks for any input you may have.

The factory harness is plug-n-play. You will need mostly mechanical skills to install it, not electrical. No videos that I know of on the sequence of panel removal, but the Owners Guide shows/describes the side panel sequence, and the hitch instructions cover the sequence for the hitch and wiring installation. The only thing you have to be careful about is where you run cable to the module. If you don't tuck most of it into the inner fender, you will need to secure it so it doesn't contact the tire.