• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

No Headlights, but no blown fuses! What am I missing?

frank sanchelli

New member
Hey guys I think this might be my first thread since being on spyderlovers. anyhow with that being said I have a 2014 limited. I now have no low beam headlights or high beam headlights, I cannot find any fuse issues I went over them twice. could I be missing something here. Does not seem like it should be that confusing. any ideas?
 
You may have a burnt out bulb. There is only one per side as the Spyder uses a shutter system to block some light output for the low beam. Good time to upgrade to LED lights!
 
You may have a burnt out bulb. There is only one per side as the Spyder uses a shutter system to block some light output for the low beam. Good time to upgrade to LED lights!

Amen Amen (needs at least 5 characters to post!)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Curious...🤔

Is the engine running? Very strange that both would go out at the same time? :dontknow: If engine is off, the only function for them is the flash button. At least on the RS.... :thumbup:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
If you have a '14 and it has any kind of mileage on it both bulbs may be gone. Both of mine went out within a couple of days of each other. Pages 152-153 of your operator's guide explain in pretty good detail how to change the bulbs. The most annoying part of the process is removing and installing all the Tupperware to get at the headlamps themselves. I suggest you do the right side first because the headlight adjustment cable is easier to snake back into its mounting hole IMO than the left one, and here are several points to remember: 1. When you start removing bolts, be sure to put a shop cloth under any recessed one so none go falling into a black hole. 2. The headlight adjustment cable (pg 153) can fit in either of two mounting holes and the one it was installed in at the factory is marked with a grease pencil; make sure you put it back on the original hole. 3. Note when you remove the headlight that there are two rubber vent tubes on each side of the back of the housing. Be careful not to knock any of them off during the process, particularly on the left side as it's a little tighter working that side IMO. 4. The top center headlight retaining bolt (pg 153) can be a bit iffy getting started because you need a long extension on the socket; an easy way to do it is wrap a bit of painter's tape around the head of the bolt and the socket. Once you have the bolt seated the tape will come off with the socket.

I agree with those who recommend switching to LEDs. IF you elect replace with halogen bulbs get the number off the base of a burned out bulb and purchase replacements from an auto parts store. They are cheaper than from a dealership and, most important, the come in a sealed package where the dealership bulbs come in a box that a greasy handed parts guy can grab the bulb from and destroy its life with his grubby paw.
 
Problem reinstalling headlight adjustment cable.

Soooo, I am upgrading to LED headlights. After more than a minute of work I got the left headlight off, and the new bulb installed. I paid attention to where adjustment cable came out. But - that was more than an hour ago and I have totally forgotten how to route it down to its hole. All help appreciated.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Soooo, I am upgrading to LED headlights. After more than a minute of work I got the left headlight off and the new bulb installed. I paid attention to where adjustment cable came out. - but - that was more than an hour ago and I have totally forgotten how to route it down to its hole. All help appreciated.

Look at how the other side is routed as you slowly remove that one. Put tape or something near the correct entry point.
 
Use your phone and or camera and take a picture at each step. When indexing plugs for example I use a silver sharply. You will see it the next time you swap out or decide to change the light or have to adjust it. I put a silver mark on housing and adjuster so I know where the original setting was. Same with clutches etc.
 
The problem with the left cable is it has to be routed under and past the air filter box. With the left side panel off try looking forward toward where the cable would be coming from. If you have some kind of drain snake try to feed it upward and forward and see if it comes out about where the cable mounts to the headlight. Then tape the drain snake to the cable and feed it downward and rearward. Four hands might make it easier.
 
I have a 2014RTS-SE6 the right side of my headlights did not work( in 2017) and I up graded to LED headlights/fog lights.

The LED headlights/fog lights work very well for me, they give a wider view on side of the road, also, the on coming traffic can see me.


Deanna
 
Just a quick note of thanks to all who helped. What should have take 4 hours took 4 days. As usual, I was over thinking the problem. As it turns out the cable goes over everything and thru a hole in the plastic guard, then straight down to its mounting hole. Again thanks.
 
Back
Top