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There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
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- Thread starter Lively
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PMK
Active member
Fresh fuel is a great plan.
Leaky exhausts can sometimes make the engine lean pop, but not typically pop then die.
More likely the throttle bodies may need a good cleaning. While off, replace the two vacuum hoses known to cause poor running. Also while off, look closely at the rubber spigots for tears or rips. Sometimes not easily seen unless the spigot is flexed.
Consider too, use a volatile, but not harmful to surfaces spray products and check for vacuum leaks.
My bet is on the throttle bodies and a vacuum leak first.
Leaky exhausts can sometimes make the engine lean pop, but not typically pop then die.
More likely the throttle bodies may need a good cleaning. While off, replace the two vacuum hoses known to cause poor running. Also while off, look closely at the rubber spigots for tears or rips. Sometimes not easily seen unless the spigot is flexed.
Consider too, use a volatile, but not harmful to surfaces spray products and check for vacuum leaks.
My bet is on the throttle bodies and a vacuum leak first.
Why would i do that now? It is now starting and running while holding perfect idle. Its just some fine tuning... i dont think a little backfire is worth replacing a whole engine.
PinkRosePetal
New member
Fill it with fresh fuel and give it a good run...get on with it! ...you know you want to!
Too many things that will cause it spit back through intake? As mentioned previously fresh fuel is priority! Then start with easier things first, ignition timing, inspect wires, plugs connections etc. Intake seals and vacuum lines as previously suggested. Leak down test. Cam timing.
PMK
Active member
Agree on ignition leads also.
If it were me, fresh fuel, Visually inspect spigots or spray them while engine is running, REPLACE vacuum hoses. All that is low cost.
Regarding plug wires, on any engine, not just the Spyder, plug wires can deteriorate over time while still looking good. What happens is they leak and cause misfires. The high voltage spark will take the path of least resistance. At low rpm and low loads, it may fire the plug. As you open the throttle, cylinder pressures increase and can be enough the plug will not fire but rather the high voltage jumps through the weakened wires insulation to ground.
Possibly bad wires and an idiot first owner did the original damage.
I believe you are almost there, but as I mentioned, provided the engine does not make metal during normal use.
If it were me, fresh fuel, Visually inspect spigots or spray them while engine is running, REPLACE vacuum hoses. All that is low cost.
Regarding plug wires, on any engine, not just the Spyder, plug wires can deteriorate over time while still looking good. What happens is they leak and cause misfires. The high voltage spark will take the path of least resistance. At low rpm and low loads, it may fire the plug. As you open the throttle, cylinder pressures increase and can be enough the plug will not fire but rather the high voltage jumps through the weakened wires insulation to ground.
Possibly bad wires and an idiot first owner did the original damage.
I believe you are almost there, but as I mentioned, provided the engine does not make metal during normal use.
Yes yes and yes!
Another thing most overlook including myself! Many many years ago, I built a very nice small block Chevrolet for my street race car. Brand new, it wouldn't start just spit back every now and then. I had never had an engine not start right up before. I did the process of elimination, changed ballast resistor, ignition box, distributor, checked valve lash, cam timing and still the same. Remember everything is new! Last thing I checked, In my mind a waste of time as they were new, was the Champion spark plugs. Low and behold everyone was fowled! One too many pumps on the 850 Holley double pumper with 2- 50cc accelerator pumps. I used Autolite in my V8s always after that and never had a problem. Just a FYI I had the center electrode come loose and slide almost all the way out, fortunate it didn't make it out, Champion plugs, I should have switched then.
Freddy
Active member
Perhaps because of this:I did find ALOT of metal in the filter and filter housing which i assume came from the stuck valves and cam bearings.
But I truly hope you're in luck.
krakum1967
New member
Hoping Lively has the exhaust by the weekend, I got it to the PO today and it should make Grand Junction tonight, its all freeway from there.
Did a short 10 mile run, 6 miles of freeway. Got up to 70 and stayed around 70 everything seemed fine. Only thing I noticed was in low rpms in 1st I heard a tick tick that went with the Roma ONLY when moving and it came right near the shifter. On the road the temp is at 4 bars at idle it stays at 5 bars. Totally weird to ride, different from anything I’ve ever ridden before, some sounds are a little different too. Engine sounds different than my bike but I don’t think it’s a bad thing just a little different than what I’m used to. Idle is right about 1400, haven’t figured out how to use reverse yet.
Next I’m going to do another oil change or at least filter it out to check for contamination. Every no and the I do get a hiccup in the air box that stuffers the idle when blipping then throttle but not consistent. Overall I think everything’s looking good IMO. Let me know if anything I mentioned is not normal and I’m wrong haha, and let me know what you guys think I should do or what idk lol I feel like I’m nearing the finish line.
Next I’m going to do another oil change or at least filter it out to check for contamination. Every no and the I do get a hiccup in the air box that stuffers the idle when blipping then throttle but not consistent. Overall I think everything’s looking good IMO. Let me know if anything I mentioned is not normal and I’m wrong haha, and let me know what you guys think I should do or what idk lol I feel like I’m nearing the finish line.
PMK
Active member
Very cool. Yes, keep an eye on the oil drains for metal, filter too until you get some hours on it. As for the acceleration lag, not sure if you did or did not replace the vacuum hoses, but that should be done, is easy and low cost. Upgrade to silicone for longevity.
The rolling noises, they will share what they are over time. Guessing brakes, but check the lug nits and rear axel for tightness. Might even verify the belt is tracking well. Other than that, fingers crossed you get to enjoy it, and the effort was worth it.
Okay one little thing @pmk. Figured out to get in reverse to put it in garage without pushing up steep driveway. after i got it inside i noticed some white smoke coming from exhaust. Wasnt super thick or anything, bike was left off a little over an hour and only had 2 bars on the gauge. Could that have just been precipitation like you get from a car? Its 55 degrees outside. i think it is just want an opinion as it did it earlier but not while riding and warm, just not 100% since it never cooled completely but did cool to the touch as i was able to put my finger in the exhaust to see what it smells like which was nothing.
stevencovert
Member
Ticking near the shifter may mean front pulley going bad?? On mine it ticked when accelerating, stopped when decelerating. Got worse and REAL loud after only 100 miles. Splines on pulley were worn off. Pulley covered in red dust. Just a thought.
krakum1967
New member
Hey Lively!!! Great news and progress, and I hope you were pleased with the exhaust. The RSS in my shed does have exhaust condensation steam if that's what you are describing, and yes, they ride like a Snowmobile on the road. If you have not ridden a Snowmobile, I could never explain the Can AM ride other than its something you have to do to experience....lol....I would also do the canister removal if you have not done it, it cut down on my exhaust condensation.
hope all is going well, and it was nice to read the updates.
hope all is going well, and it was nice to read the updates.
krakum1967
New member
Oh, and you might want to change the vacuum lines on the injector bodies. I have to do it to mine yet, but I am waiting on my new CNC Air Intake to come in to tear it down, I guess you have to pull the air box to replace the vacuum lines. My friends here and the dealer recommend doing this to smooth out idle on the 998 as well.
krakum1967
New member
@lively, I have my next project in the batters circle....
https://spyderstore.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_68&product_id=50
I have one on my trike, but I helping a friend with his....
He has HEAT in his shop....lol, I am a carport guy, so its my "off season"
Ohhh, I found a LED deal, the are a cheaper brand, but I got a pack of four 6 inch single row LED Drivers light (with 6 LEDs per light bar). 25 dollars with free shipping. I am putting one on the BMW Funduro On/Off Bike I have, than I will put the second one on my 2013 Triumph Thruxton, and two on the Can Am. I can mount them on the A-arms like the ones on there now. Once I do that, the LED Spotters will be moved onto the nose. I want to mount them in the empty fog lamp areas on the RS-S. I Might opt for a single light on the front spoiler on the nose of the bike, I can easily put one there, but not two.
I cant wait for warmer weather, we are two weeks out. I also have OEM parts going up for sale, I will have the Can Am ones listed here.
https://spyderstore.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_68&product_id=50
I have one on my trike, but I helping a friend with his....
He has HEAT in his shop....lol, I am a carport guy, so its my "off season"
Ohhh, I found a LED deal, the are a cheaper brand, but I got a pack of four 6 inch single row LED Drivers light (with 6 LEDs per light bar). 25 dollars with free shipping. I am putting one on the BMW Funduro On/Off Bike I have, than I will put the second one on my 2013 Triumph Thruxton, and two on the Can Am. I can mount them on the A-arms like the ones on there now. Once I do that, the LED Spotters will be moved onto the nose. I want to mount them in the empty fog lamp areas on the RS-S. I Might opt for a single light on the front spoiler on the nose of the bike, I can easily put one there, but not two.
I cant wait for warmer weather, we are two weeks out. I also have OEM parts going up for sale, I will have the Can Am ones listed here.
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