NMN risers and cable routing

[mrb]

I am sure no one else was as silly as I was (in hindsight) pps: but I am interested in where people routed their reversing cable when they fitted the risers?
All my other cables reached , after cutting some cable ties, but I had to do a major reroute of the reverse interlock cable. Of course it moved and touched the exhaust (I know dumb move) - consequently it locked up.
I have ordered a new one ($99 ) and was wondering where other people routed them.

 

[dltang]

Hey Martin,
I didn't have to do any re-routing on mine. I guess I was just lucky, I only had to snip one zip tie as well, all the cables reached. I wish I could be more informative for you.

 

[pphantom538]

Martin,
I had to re-route as well. Bith the reverse and SE5 cable. Snipped the ties and routed them to the left side of the tunnel with zip ties. Gives plenty of room.

 

[effgjamis]

I am sure no one else was as silly as I was (in hindsight) pps: but I am interested in where people routed their reversing cable when they fitted the risers?

I just removed cable from switch and routed the cable through the hole in the riser and re-connected..

No re-route of cable needed, at least for me.

 

[Putt-Putt]

I had to re-route and cut plastic ties. Even with that the wires just barely reach. I'm still concerened with the 2 wires that come out of the clutch lever pulls them snug at full turn. And thats with the risers mounted almost straight up. I would really have liked to turned the risers back toward the driver some more.

 

[jeuchler]

I am sure no one else was as silly as I was (in hindsight) pps: but I am interested in where people routed their reversing cable when they fitted the risers?
All my other cables reached , after cutting some cable ties, but I had to do a major reroute of the reverse interlock cable. Of course it moved and touched the exhaust (I know dumb move) - consequently it locked up.
I have ordered a new one ($99 ) and was wondering where other people routed them.

mrb

Look at my post #9 (not so good routing) and then post #10 after advice from Lamont and other spyderlovers (much more betterer routing!)

Edit: Not so goodly:

Way more bestest:

Those are 3" NMN risers, BTW...

 

[Rokonman]

I have the same concern with the two clutch wires. I may cut and extend to avoid tension on them. Any comments?

 

[dltang]

mrb

Look at my post #9 (not so good routing) and then post #10 after advice from Lamont and other spyderlovers (much more betterer routing!)

Edit: Not so goodly:

Way more bestest:

Those are 3" NMN risers, BTW...

I think Barb needs to proof ready your posts from now on. Your grammar is rapidly going downhill

 

[jeuchler]

I think Barb needs to proof ready your posts from now on. Your grammar is rapidly going downhill

Ha!

Deb, at my advanced age, I treat myself to making up wordifications whenever I feel it necessararily.

To do. :joke:


(Anyhow, that poor kid is too tired from her own workifying to worry about helping me out!)

 

[Putt-Putt]

I have the same concern with the two clutch wires. I may cut and extend to avoid tension on them. Any comments?

Well any comments anyone?

 

[Lamonster]

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6890

 

[Putt-Putt]

Thats got to be right behind the trunk right? Do You gota take the trunk off to do it?

 

[Spanky]

Thats got to be right behind the trunk right? Do You gota take the trunk off to do it?

No trunk removal required. You only need to take off the sides and middle panels.

 

[Tonga]

I have the same concern but everything is working well so far. One thing I think about it cutting the plastic handle bar cover about an inch to narrow the bars back to the oem spacing to give those cables some relief and then get the bars angled back some more. Anyone done that and if so send a pic.

 

[Rokonman]

Confused

I have the same concern but everything is working well so far. One thing I think about it cutting the plastic handle bar cover about an inch to narrow the bars back to the oem spacing to give those cables some relief and then get the bars angled back some more. Anyone done that and if so send a pic.

Confused regarding your reference to "oem spacing." The risers do not alter the spacing from original bar specs as far as I can see.

 

[Putt-Putt]

I think he is talking about the cover the one that has your P/E # that covers the handle bars.

 

[spyderbitten]

Just finished my install of 4" NMN risers. Major pain in the butt. Had to remove trunk to snip harness ties and also rerouted reverse cable, and seat latch cable. Reverse cable is still pretty snug. Only saving grace was I was also installing the 12 volt power plug in the trunk, which required removal anyway. Drove to work this am and everything seems good. I felt more comfortable driving and gained more leverage with the risers. Steering b-4 the mod really didn't seem that bad.......until you drive with the new risers :thumbup:. I would like to see the risers polished, think that would really set them off. Will try doing that next time I have some free time. Good product, works well, just more install time than i anticipated.

 

[Putt-Putt]

Just finished my install of 4" NMN risers. Major pain in the butt. Had to remove trunk to snip harness ties and also rerouted reverse cable, and seat latch cable. Reverse cable is still pretty snug. Only saving grace was I was also installing the 12 volt power plug in the trunk, which required removal anyway. Drove to work this am and everything seems good. I felt more comfortable driving and gained more leverage with the risers. Steering b-4 the mod really didn't seem that bad.......until you drive with the new risers :thumbup:. I would like to see the risers polished, think that would really set them off. Will try doing that next time I have some free time. Good product, works well, just more install time than i anticipated.

Ya it took me 5 - 1/2 hrs. to do mine. I even had to disconnect the trunk release cable & reroute it. Made me feel like a idiot when I here other people only took 2 hrs. to install.

 

[mrb]

It seems amazing that there are some many differences in cable routing. Some people report no change needed, some just have to snip a few ties, some have to remove the whole trunk, some, like me, had to reroute the reverse cable and some even had to reroute the trunk release??

Can it be that they change the way they route the cables and tie them off on the production line??:dontknow:

 

[retread]

It probably depends on who on the production line is doing the job. If there isn't a set layout, or if they don't follow it, anything goes as long as it works.