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New Spyder Sea to Sky and Trailering - will I be able to tie my Spyder down properly?
- Thread starter srd9711
- Start date
safecracker
Well-known member
This is my setup when I haul the Spyder. This setup has been to Yellowstone and back, and NH and back...
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- ThanksGood luck today srd9711, we'll need a report!
Sarah
will do
Snoking1127
Well-known member
If you fold up the extra length of strap and place it under the handle, push the handle down against the bundle of extra strap and the handle will hold it in place.
mecsw500
Well-known member
Typically small trailers like my Spyder specific Kendon have little or no suspension.
Strapping the Spyder down through the rear wheel and the front lower suspension A-arms allows the Spyder to act like it's sprung, rather than unsprung, weight.
If the trailer has a wooden deck, screwing a piece of two by two or two by four on its side, across the deck for a stop to give the Spyder something to stop up against when loading helps when securing the front straps and ensuring the Spyder always parks in the optimal place for the correct tongue weight for trailer hitch to the tow vehicle. A sort of chock if you will. Or you can screw in a couple of RV wheel chocks if you prefer. This way, you can load the Spyder, strap it by the front against that stop, then tension things with the rear strap.
On my Kendon trailer, you just load the Spyder up against the front rail which acts as a chock.
If the trailer is used for other things, just remove the wood or chocks and mark the screw holes with a sharpy so you can find them again when needed. Don’t use more than two inches height of wood if you just have one piece across the trailer as the Spyder has only about four inches of clearance on a good day. Or use just two pieces of wood aligned with each front wheel when you can go larger. If things are permanent, then a couple of chocks from your RV store or Harbor Freight screwed down are good, as it helps you align the trike left to right. Adding a piece of duct tape along the middle of the trailer at the front helps with that, as you can align the BRP badge on the front with that line. A piece at the back also helps you get the trike centered whilst loading it initially.
Strapping the Spyder down through the rear wheel and the front lower suspension A-arms allows the Spyder to act like it's sprung, rather than unsprung, weight.
If the trailer has a wooden deck, screwing a piece of two by two or two by four on its side, across the deck for a stop to give the Spyder something to stop up against when loading helps when securing the front straps and ensuring the Spyder always parks in the optimal place for the correct tongue weight for trailer hitch to the tow vehicle. A sort of chock if you will. Or you can screw in a couple of RV wheel chocks if you prefer. This way, you can load the Spyder, strap it by the front against that stop, then tension things with the rear strap.
On my Kendon trailer, you just load the Spyder up against the front rail which acts as a chock.
If the trailer is used for other things, just remove the wood or chocks and mark the screw holes with a sharpy so you can find them again when needed. Don’t use more than two inches height of wood if you just have one piece across the trailer as the Spyder has only about four inches of clearance on a good day. Or use just two pieces of wood aligned with each front wheel when you can go larger. If things are permanent, then a couple of chocks from your RV store or Harbor Freight screwed down are good, as it helps you align the trike left to right. Adding a piece of duct tape along the middle of the trailer at the front helps with that, as you can align the BRP badge on the front with that line. A piece at the back also helps you get the trike centered whilst loading it initially.
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I bought a 7x14 tandem axle enclosed trailer with a ramp door and flush mounted d rings in order to haul my Spyder home from a dealer in Alabama that was a 4 hour drive away so I have never attempted to load it on the Aluma trailer. I needed a place to keep the Spyder so that's why I got the enclosed trailer. I keep it parked under a carport awning shelter then wired the trailer with 110 in order to have led interior lights and a receptacle for a dehumidifier.
canamjhb
Well-known member
Glad to read that you have boarding ramps. You'll need them and may even need to get creative with loading and unloading. Also, very important, as Snoking mentioned, be sure to place heavy cloth (or something) in the rear wheel before using any tie down through it. If not, even normal road bouncing and movement will abrade even the heaviest of nylon straps on the edges of your wheel. Congratulations and good luck...
Nicknamed "the Stormtrooper"
Bfromla
Well-known member
…. Ummm but can it “hit” the road?¿(NOT roadkill). Have the appropriate helmet?
As long as I don't "hit" anything else, I will be ok!
Did my 1st 100 mile ride today!!!
Thanks everyone for support on the forum.
Looking for an Empire emblem, I've seen some vinyl items on Etsy.
Bfromla
Well-known member
racoon
Well-known member
I found a website that sells 68mm replacement emblems that fit CAN-AM Spyders (and CAN-AM Renegades, apparently).
Custom Can Am® Renegade® and Spyder® Emblems - 68mm
These custom medallion style BRP® replacement emblems are the perfect final touch to your Renegade or Spyder! 12 designs available; Baby Carlos, Panty Dropper, Oil Rig, Maple Leaf, Texas Outline, American Flag, Don’t Tread on Me, Autobot, Circle Game, Rifle, Custom Text and the Main Event Logo...
maineventemblems.com
The description says:
Color options, too.
No Empire emblem, but they have a Contact Us link that says they can do custom designs.
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