New Power Distribution System

[Trickie Dick]

I ran across this review of the Dispatch 1 power distribution system on webbike world. http://www.webbikeworld.com/r4/dispatch-1/
It really looks interesting and does alot of things. It allows you to control all your devices, auxiliary lighting and heated clothing(without a controller). It also tracks system voltage as well as the ambient temperature. Another nice thing for you multi-biker owners, the control module can be removed for security purposes as well as transferred to other bikes. The vendor is here http://www.arborealsystems.com/Dispatch_1.html

 

[pjp623]

opcorn: Thanks, looks interesting, but I'm a bit concerned about the size and how it might look on the :spyder2:.

 

[Dochands]

Very interesting.

 

[IWN2RYD]

That looks promising. The part I like the most about it is the idea of only one power wire to run from the battery. Then everything plugs in on the unit that is mounted on or near the Handlebar. This makes our lives with SPyders much easier to work with when we have to remove all the Tupperware... Not to mention it makes the dealers hapier with less wires all over the place when the do our valves and such... :thumbup:

 

[NancysToy]

I don't see many advantages over a conventional auxiliary fuseblock. Nifty features, but they seem to be mostly technology for the sake of technology. I sure don't need a remote to adjust heated gear, when I can just turn a knob, for instance. I may have missed it, but there was no mention of any diodes in the circuit to prevent spikes that could goof up the CanBus. I also do not like the use of audio-type connectors for electrical connections. I'll stick with the Eastern beaver fuseblocks, or continue to build my own...but that's just me. This may work for the techies out there. Maybe we'll see a report on SpyderLovers later this year?

 

[wyliec]

I don't see many advantages over a conventional auxiliary fuseblock. Nifty features, but they seem to be mostly technology for the sake of technology. I sure don't need a remote to adjust heated gear, when I can just turn a knob, for instance. I may have missed it, but there was no mention of any diodes in the circuit to prevent spikes that could goof up the CanBus. I also do not like the use of audio-type connectors for electrical connections. I'll stick with the Eastern beaver fuseblocks, or continue to build my own...but that's just me. This may work for the techies out there. Maybe we'll see a report on SpyderLovers later this year?

Agreed. And, for those that need to charge using a USB port:

http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-F8Z446-Charger-Charge-iPhone/dp/B00280BDM4

You can plug that into a powerlet to cigarette lighter outlet adapter.

 

[WackyDan]

I don't see many advantages over a conventional auxiliary fuseblock. Nifty features, but they seem to be mostly technology for the sake of technology. I sure don't need a remote to adjust heated gear, when I can just turn a knob, for instance. I may have missed it, but there was no mention of any diodes in the circuit to prevent spikes that could goof up the CanBus. I also do not like the use of audio-type connectors for electrical connections. I'll stick with the Eastern beaver fuseblocks, or continue to build my own...but that's just me. This may work for the techies out there. Maybe we'll see a report on SpyderLovers later this year?

Yeah... This thing may be cool... But you can rig a power bag like someone did here for much cheaper if you really need bike to bike portability. Some people like to over think and over engineer everything.

 

[Eraser]

I'm with you Scotty.Technology for the sake of technology does not make sense to me.

 

[Lamonster]

I don't see many advantages over a conventional auxiliary fuseblock. Nifty features, but they seem to be mostly technology for the sake of technology. I sure don't need a remote to adjust heated gear, when I can just turn a knob, for instance. I may have missed it, but there was no mention of any diodes in the circuit to prevent spikes that could goof up the CanBus. I also do not like the use of audio-type connectors for electrical connections. I'll stick with the Eastern beaver fuseblocks, or continue to build my own...but that's just me. This may work for the techies out there. Maybe we'll see a report on SpyderLovers later this year?

:agree:
I looked at it and as much as I love new fangled gizmos I can't see any real reason to have one of these as much as I tried. :dontknow:

 

[NancysToy]

:agree:
I looked at it and as much as I love new fangled gizmos I can't see any real reason to have one of these as much as I tried. :dontknow:

:roflblack: Well, if that picture of all the gizmos on the handlebars of that BMW didn't scare you, nothing would. I'm not much of a gadget junkie, though, so I am certainly not a good judge.

 

[Eraser]

:roflblack: Well, if that picture of all the gizmos on the handlebars of that BMW didn't scare you, nothing would. I'm not much of a gadget junkie, though, so I am certainly not a good judge.

I just noticed that!!!Yikes!!!

 

[pierrelogic]

Upgrading the capacity of the existing relays couldn't hurt. 35 Amp

 

[Campverdefela]

I just noticed that!!!Yikes!!!

:yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes:

 

[pierrelogic]

While it's true plugging in a relay whose contact points are rated at 35 amps won't hurt, it won't do any real good either.

In a well designed electrical system (like the Spyder) relay failures due to burned contacts are extremely rare. Usually the coil opens causing the relay to be inoperable.

The only way upping the relay's contact point rating would have any effect would be if you were using the circuit to handle more current (like lighting) than it was intended.

Which would probably mean upping the fuse value which could cause the wiring harness to overheat resulting in a barbecued Spyder.

Respectfully I disagree. Relay failures are not extremely rare, they just don't get the publicity. As you even stated the harness is well designed so it's rated to handle more than 30 amp from the factory. BRP errs on the side of caution. Not sure how you concluded it would potentially overheat. To each their own. :dontknow:

 

[pierrelogic]

Uh, I didn't say that plugging in a 35 amp relay (versus 30) would do any harm, I said it would do no good and relay failure a'int contact related.

So anyway-pass the beer.:2thumbs:

Would you rather replace a $14-$20 relay or a $1-$2 dollar fuse? Going from 30amps to 35 gives more breathing room for the entire electrical system which can become an issue as more after-market accessories are added. How would that be no good on any level? Ever seen a fried relay? Not healthy on the connection points whereas a fuse generally blows contained within itself. Not going to argue a moot point. I agree to disagree.

Forget the beer, I'll take a shot of Tequila. hyea:

 

[Trickie Dick]

Interesting to read the comments here. I have the
Eastern Beaver and am quite happy with it. But technology marches on. As I read it, this device replaces the relays that we are arguing about. It allows us to directly power and charge all the new USB 5v devices that we use. It allows you to redistribute power among the devices, lights heated clothing, etc. as need be. You can program delayed power or continuous power with the ability to shut it down if the battery starts to become low. AFter its set up once, it allows us to do all these things without stopping taking the tupperware off and playing with wires to all the things we have added to our spyders. To me, whats not to like,:dontknow: except the price.