My Spyder is in LyMp Mode HELP!

[Peteoz]

Now, you've got me worried, AY4B. I'm about to reassemble things. Does anyone ever change a rear tire and NOT have issues like this to deal with. Seems like this happens a lot.
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I had zero problems, Spyderman. After everything was back together, and before I started the Spyder, I applied pressure to the brake for around 5 seconds. This resets everything brake related. I then started it up to check belt alignment, and then took it for a run with no error messages.

 

[Peteoz]

AY4B,

Here is my task list from my wheel replacement where I experienced no problems. Is there anything that stands out as vastly different to what you did? I have edited the list for the sake of brevity.

Pete

WHEEL REMOVAL -




1. Position your bike lift toward the rear of the chassis bar, being careful not to crush the exhaust springs.
2. Place F3 in neutral, park brake on.


10. Unbolt and remove the sensor next to the caliper(remember where each shim goes - I had 4, all between the sensor and the caliper mount plate)


18. Put a cloth inside the wheel to avoid damaging it when the caliper comes off. (Just in case)


20. Remove the brake caliper bolts and the slide the caliper off the disc (tight fit) and bungy to the frame or exhaust to keep the load off it.
21. Avoid touching the brake pedal while the caliper is off as you could create nanny messages when you start the Spyder......which can be fairly easily rectified....... but.....)




WHEEL REINSTALL -




11. Lift the Spyder until the wheel is off the ground to allow access to the upper brake caliper bolt hole.
12. Separate the pads in the brake caliper and slide the brake caliper over the disc (it's a tight fit, make sure the pads are separated in the caliper) and hand tighten the caliper bolts (use loctite).


14. Reinstall the sensor, ensuring shims are in the correct spot (use loctite.)


16. Slide the belt back on the sprocket (it helps to rotate the wheel)
17. Lower the Spyder to stability (meaning the wheel is just touching the ground).


23. Press hard on the brake pedal with the ignition off to reset the pads and ABS.
25. Lift the Spyder rear wheel off the ground. Select first gear and check belt for movement while the tyre is rotating. Brake and try in reverse. The belt should not move from side to side. If it does, you need a belt alignment adjustment. The belt should be 1mm to 5mm gap from the sprocket.
26. Lower the Spyder.
27. Check the tyre pressure.
28. Test ride......hopefully with no nanny messages.

 

[AY4B]

Look at your manual again, that 162 sounds way too high. You should always use a wheel chock when you jack up your Spyder parking brake on or parking brake off!

I just checked the service manual. Page 522 on the blow up diagram of the rear wheel, it shows 166 Ft pounds for the rear axle nut.

 

[AY4B]

AY4B,

Here is my task list from my wheel replacement where I experienced no problems. Is there anything that stands out as vastly different to what you did? I have edited the list for the sake of brevity.

Pete

WHEEL REMOVAL -




1. Position your bike lift toward the rear of the chassis bar, being careful not to crush the exhaust springs.
2. Place F3 in neutral, park brake on.


10. Unbolt and remove the sensor next to the caliper(remember where each shim goes - I had 4, all between the sensor and the caliper mount plate)
I did not remove the sensor, instead i found that if you slide off the rubber gromet that holds the cables to the frame, it gives you more cable play so you have no problem removing the brake caliper.


18. Put a cloth inside the wheel to avoid damaging it when the caliper comes off. (Just in case)

I used painters tape on the wheel instead.


20. Remove the brake caliper bolts and the slide the caliper off the disc (tight fit) and bungy to the frame or exhaust to keep the load off it.
21. Avoid touching the brake pedal while the caliper is off as you could create nanny messages when you start the Spyder......which can be fairly easily rectified....... but.....)

This I think is where I went wrong. The caliper got compressed somehow, I think I may have moved the parking brake cable slightly. Once the caliper gets compressed, you cant just spread it with a screwdriver,or pliers or even a clamp. There is something built into it that prevents that. The tech explained it and he had never had to do this but you have to remove the brake pads, and turn the piston to get it to go back. There are 2 holes for this on the face of the piston. Most probably there is a special tool for this but I used some needle nose pliers to get the job done.






WHEEL REINSTALL -




11. Lift the Spyder until the wheel is off the ground to allow access to the upper brake caliper bolt hole.
12. Separate the pads in the brake caliper and slide the brake caliper over the disc (it's a tight fit, make sure the pads are separated in the caliper) and hand tighten the caliper bolts (use loctite).


14. Reinstall the sensor, ensuring shims are in the correct spot (use loctite.)


16. Slide the belt back on the sprocket (it helps to rotate the wheel)
17. Lower the Spyder to stability (meaning the wheel is just touching the ground).


23. Press hard on the brake pedal with the ignition off to reset the pads and ABS.
25. Lift the Spyder rear wheel off the ground. Select first gear and check belt for movement while the tyre is rotating. Brake and try in reverse. The belt should not move from side to side. If it does, you need a belt alignment adjustment. The belt should be 1mm to 5mm gap from the sprocket.
26. Lower the Spyder.
27. Check the tyre pressure.
28. Test ride......hopefully with no nanny messages.

reply is in your text above

 

[GA_Spyderman]

Thanks, guys, all good information.


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[finless]

I just checked the service manual. Page 522 on the blow up diagram of the rear wheel, it shows 166 Ft pounds for the rear axle nut.

Correct. Earlier models the nut was 98 lbs. Sometime in 2014 they increased the torque of the axel nut to 166.
No one knows why they increased it. At least no reason I could find.

Bob

 

[AY4B]

I just got back from Richardson Motorsports. Turns out the sensor cable is damaged. I ordered a new one and will get here in about a week. He said those sensor cables are very delicate and break easily. Sounds like an easy fix except for the hundred dollars for the cable I had to pay for. Always take care not to damage them. I did not remove it and probably should have just to protect it better.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

SENSOR CABLE

I just got back from Richardson Motorsports. Turns out the sensor cable is damaged. I ordered a new one and will get here in about a week. He said those sensor cables are very delicate and break easily. Sounds like an easy fix except for the hundred dollars for the cable I had to pay for. Always take care not to damage them. I did not remove it and probably should have just to protect it better.

Please provide the part number for this cable so we all know what it is and where it is ...... thanks ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[AY4B]

Please provide the part number for this cable so we all know what it is and where it is ...... thanks ..... Mike :thumbup:

They called it the speed sensor but if it is broke then how is my speedometer still showing my speed??
Anyway the BUDS system said it was broke so I need to replace it.
its the black cable that comes off the brake assembly and it runs to somewhere under the rear seat and plugs in I assume near the brake reservoir.
Part # 706200506 106.99

They give me a 15% discount for being a Spyder Ryders of east Texas member so my price was 90.94 plus tax and shipping to my house.

 

[Peteoz]

Correct. Earlier models the nut was 98 lbs. Sometime in 2014 they increased the torque of the axel nut to 166.
No one knows why they increased it. At least no reason I could find.

Bob

Ahhhhhhhh. I now understand how you were able to remove to rear axle nuts with half a spanner, Bob. Believe me, from 2015 on, that is an impossibility....:thumbup:

Pete

 

[Peteoz]

They called it the speed sensor but if it is broke then how is my speedometer still showing my speed??
Anyway the BUDS system said it was broke so I need to replace it.
its the black cable that comes off the brake assembly and it runs to somewhere under the rear seat and plugs in I assume near the brake reservoir.
Part # 706200506 106.99

AY, is it the part shown with the black cable in this photo just to the left of the Brembo stamp on the caliper, or am I in the wrong spot?

Pete

 

[AY4B]

AY, is it the part shown with the black cable in this photo just to the left of the Brembo stamp on the caliper, or am I in the wrong spot?

Pete

View attachment 144974

Yes thats it. You take off that bolt next to it to remove it. It looks like rubber on the end with some shims in between. Be carefull to replace the shims on the new cable to keep the same spacing.

 

[AY4B]

Correct me if I'm wrong but the other end plugs into something under the rear seat but he said you have to remove the black plastic splash fender guard to get to it from underneath . Isn't that where the computer is?

 

[Peteoz]

Yes thats it. You take off that bolt next to it to remove it. It looks like rubber on the end with some shims in between. Be carefull to replace the shims on the new cable to keep the same spacing.

I took it off and taped it out of the way. I didn't treat it ALL that carefully though. Looks like it is quite sensitive and I might just have been lucky. I'll add a comment in bold to to my instructions to ensure you handle it with kid gloves.

That doesn't help you though AY. Good luck with the replacement. If it makes you feel any better, I recently stripped the thread in one of the little brass nuts that the plastic side body panel screws into. No....you can not buy another knurled nut to tap/glue in....you have to buy the complete internal plastic piece with the nuts already installed........that'll be $150 thanks. :shocked::gaah:

Pete

 

[Peteoz]

They called it the speed sensor but if it is broke then how is my speedometer still showing my speed??
Anyway the BUDS system said it was broke so I need to replace it.
its the black cable that comes off the brake assembly and it runs to somewhere under the rear seat and plugs in I assume near the brake reservoir.
Part # 706200506 106.99

They give me a 15% discount for being a Spyder Ryders of east Texas member so my price was 90.94 plus tax and shipping to my house.

There is a sensor on each wheel, each of which is used for the ABS, the EBD (Electronic Brake Distribution), and the TCS (Traction Control System). I would say that your speedo reading is coming from the front sensors. (but I can not categorically say that those sensors are where your speedo reading comes from).

 

[Warlock]

They called it the speed sensor but if it is broke then how is my speedometer still showing my speed??
Anyway the BUDS system said it was broke so I need to replace it.
its the black cable that comes off the brake assembly and it runs to somewhere under the rear seat and plugs in I assume near the brake reservoir.
Part # 706200506 106.99

They give me a 15% discount for being a Spyder Ryders of east Texas member so my price was 90.94 plus tax and shipping to my house.

I think the part number is 706200560. Shows $80.24 at Powerhouse Warehouse. Still not bad at $90.94.
David

 

[AY4B]

I think the part number is 706200560. Shows $80.24 at Powerhouse Warehouse. Still not bad at $90.94.
David

Richardson Motorsports is one of our sponsors. They pay for expenses of the group and gave me a lot of free advice and also hooked up the BUDS to it to diagnose the problem without charging me a penny. Going to another supplier would not have been very nice of me. I will pay whatever they charge and say thank you for their help and 15% discount. Our sponsors are why you can be a member of Spyder Ryders without paying dues. They are also providing a meeting room so we can have monthly meetings with free Dunkin Donuts and coffee.:thumbup:
The bad part is that I missed a Ryde they had yesterday.

 

[AY4B]

Not to mention they are one of only a couple of dealers that will install Car tires. I paid only 35 dollars to have them mount and balance my Yokahama S drive but I brought in just the wheel.

 

[GA_Spyderman]

Wow, you've got a good dealer there.


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[AY4B]

Wow, you've got a good dealer there.


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I have a dealer here in Greenville but its worth it to drive a hour to one who will do all that.