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My RT 2010 SE5 drive belt is kaput - any links to replace it?

Hi All. Just gotta add my 2 cents worth here.

The way I see it is if the rear of the bike is supported in such a way that the rear suspension is carrying the load, i.e. supported under the shock bolt or the swingarm, the tire can/will be off the ground but the swing arm will have the same angle, w.r.t the frame, resulting in the same belt tension as when the tire is supporting the load, i.e. On the ground.

Thanks for bearing with me. "bearing";););)

If I understand you to mean " there is No difference in belt tension on the ground or off the ground " I dis-agree, I and others have measured it on & off and the tension is different . .... try it yourself .... Mike :thumbup:
 
Hi All. Just gotta add my 2 cents worth here.

The way I see it is if the rear of the bike is supported in such a way that the rear suspension is carrying the load, i.e. supported under the shock bolt or the swingarm, the tire can/will be off the ground but the swing arm will have the same angle, w.r.t the frame, resulting in the same belt tension as when the tire is supporting the load, i.e. On the ground.

Thanks for bearing with me. "bearing";););)

Eckhard - You're right that the swing arm will have the same angle wrt the frame if you jack the machine up by the lower shock bolt. Most don’t do that, rather jack it up by the main framework up forward. That’s the BRP guidance. That allows the swing arm to raise and lower. What changes then, is the angle between the swing arm and the front pulley. I guess you could call it an angle. Maybe more accurately, what changes is the straight line distance between the front pulley and the rear pulley center lines. The swing arm pivots aft of the front pulley centerline. So, as the machine is raised and the swing arm pivots downward, it lossens the belt. If the swing arm moves upward the belt gets tighter. BRP belt tension procedure specifies wheel elevated off the ground and thus every tech does it the same way....hopefully.
 
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Hi all", I replaced my drivebelt on my RT SE5 Spyder. The job wasn't to hard. The only pain in the arse job was the 2 bolts at the rear of the belt gaurd. They were hard to get to the nut on the inside so I put my mobile phone on the ground and set it to camera mode so I could see them to put my small socket wrench on the nuts while I tightened up the bolts on the outside. It was a fiddly job to get the belt tension set, but in the end I got it worked out then set the tension on the belt with my Krikit tool. I took it out for a test ride observed the alignment of the belt all good yet another job done on the Spyder,

Regards Peter RT from Australia
 
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