my oil can mod - finally done

[brutus450]

ok, heres the deal with the catch can. Yes I am running the hose from the engine into the IN port on the dryer. If you take apart the dryer you will see that the IN port goes directly into the air space of the can THEN through the stone filter. This first will collect any liquids. Then as it passes through the stone filter it will seperate the oil mist from the air. The oil wil them collect INSIDE the stone filter as a liquid and run out though the stone filter into the can. I have tested aitflow with and without the stone and there really isnt any difference how much airflow is changed by leaving the stone in. The problem with ltaking the stone out is that the mist will go out the OUT port and to the mini ait filter. I am having great sucess with my set up and highly recommend it. I am collesting oil in the can, no oil is coming out the mini airfilter and my bike is oil mess free.

For those who think different - try taking in Kobalt dyer apart and you will see what I mean.

I hope this helps anyone who had questions. It working for me so I am a happy camper:2thumbs:

 

[Neez]

I got one of those plastic air cans home, this one made by Husky, and read the instructions that came with it. It said not to subject the bowl to synthetic oil. And the bowl would be above the exhaust pipe.Hmmm. So I considered the foam-in-hose fix. I'm about 95% sure that this is the best and easiest fix, but suppose I'm wrong? Suppose the foam deteriorates and is injested by the engine. Could be expensive. Hmmm. At the moment HDXBONES road draft tube idea looks not too bad. It is ungreen, but that system worked for ages. No worse than doing a canisterectomy. I mean everybody wants to save the environment, but who wants to straddle a potential fire hazard?

 

[NancysToy]

I got one of those plastic air cans home, this one made by Husky, and read the instructions that came with it. It said not to subject the bowl to synthetic oil. And the bowl would be above the exhaust pipe.Hmmm. So I considered the foam-in-hose fix. I'm about 95% sure that this is the best and easiest fix, but suppose I'm wrong? Suppose the foam deteriorates and is injested by the engine. Could be expensive. Hmmm. At the moment HDXBONES road draft tube idea looks not too bad. It is ungreen, but that system worked for ages. No worse than doing a canisterectomy. I mean everybody wants to save the environment, but who wants to straddle a potential fire hazard?

Even if the foam were to go through the engine, what harm is it likely to do? It can't put a hole in the piston or bend a valve. It would either be pushed through the combustion chamber or melted during the combustion process. It is not like getting it into the lubrication system. The BF-1 foam is made to handle oil, gasoline, and a fair amount of heat. It could deteriorate, but I doubt it would be very fast. Inspecting it when you inspect your air cleaner at specified maintenance intervals should take care of any worries. Just be sure to put it in the hose in such a way that it is neither overly compressed (jammed in) or too loose, and put it in such a place that the hose nipple on the airbox will prevent movement toward the engine. JMHO

 

[bjt]

Even if the foam were to go through the engine, what harm is it likely to do? It can't put a hole in the piston or bend a valve. It would either be pushed through the combustion chamber or melted during the combustion process. It is not like getting it into the lubrication system. The BF-1 foam is made to handle oil, gasoline, and a fair amount of heat. It could deteriorate, but I doubt it would be very fast. Inspecting it when you inspect your air cleaner at specified maintenance intervals should take care of any worries. Just be sure to put it in the hose in such a way that it is neither overly compressed (jammed in) or too loose, and put it in such a place that the hose nipple on the airbox will prevent movement toward the engine. JMHO

I put a piece of a loose woven plastic pad in the hose yesterday. Previously, I had soaked the pad in used motor oil for about a week and it appears that it's not breaking down or becoming weaker by the oil exposure. I'll try it for a while to see if it's limiting the oil in the airbox or if it appears to be gumming up in the hose.

 

[Bulldogger]

I run the evoluzione race air intake. This system replaces the factory air box with a small stack and filter. It takes the pcv line and runs it back into the engine splitting the flow into both cylinders. The set up makes cleaning the air filter a breeze and also takes away the heat trapped by the factory box on the front cylinder. It is a nice system especially for servicing the bike. Some people complained of noise under heavy throttle but I have noticed it. Also some people stated it won't pull cold air but it is very close to the top upper vents on the panels. Down side is the cost but I think the ease of working on the bike and seeing everything really helps justify the cost.

 

[RYDRS]

Warranty

Just wondered how all these mods would effect the factory warranty? :dontknow:

 

[Bulldogger]

Neither should especially an oil catch can. Where as a performance filter could always be used as a scape goat by a lazy dealer. In Florida one of the dealers I visited was installing performance filters, juice boxes, and exhaust with no issues and stated it doesn't effect warranty. I would expect it too be more individual dealer based.

 

[Buelldog]

Synthetic Oil In Plastic??

I got one of those plastic air cans home, this one made by Husky, and read the instructions that came with it. It said not to subject the bowl to synthetic oil. And the bowl would be above the exhaust pipe.Hmmm. So I considered the foam-in-hose fix. I'm about 95% sure that this is the best and easiest fix, but suppose I'm wrong? Suppose the foam deteriorates and is injested by the engine. Could be expensive. Hmmm. At the moment HDXBONES road draft tube idea looks not too bad. It is ungreen, but that system worked for ages. No worse than doing a canisterectomy. I mean everybody wants to save the environment, but who wants to straddle a potential fire hazard?

Not familiar with the Husky Trap but The statement not to subject the bowl to synthetic oil throws a wondering question, as synthetic oil comes in a thin plastic jug???Wonder what grade of plastic their bowl is made of??Anyway, my catch can is similiar to Lamont's with an open nipple in place...no stone filter and the oil residue is staying right in the bowl....not even climbing the side toward the mini air filter on the exit port.Have dumped the collected oil(about 3/8 ths of an inch in the bottom of bowl once at 1200 miles).So far working dead on o-k.I do keep an eye on the can about every month.

 

[Neez]

Not familiar with the Husky Trap but The statement not to subject the bowl to synthetic oil throws a wondering question, as synthetic oil comes in a thin plastic jug???Wonder what grade of plastic their bowl is made of??Anyway, my catch can is similiar to Lamont's with an open nipple in place...no stone filter and the oil residue is staying right in the bowl....not even climbing the side toward the mini air filter on the exit port.Have dumped the collected oil(about 3/8 ths of an inch in the bottom of bowl once at 1200 miles).So far working dead on o-k.I do keep an eye on the can about every month.

I don't think it's a question of "grade" or quality of the plastic. There are a vast variety of plastics, each with it's correct use application. The plastic used in a synthetic oil container is probably very different from that used in air compressor filters. The bowl on the one I have reads "Avoid synthetic oils, chemicals, solvents, paints and fumes". It also says "Max. Temp. 125 F." I would not expect this bowl to fail immediately under these conditions, but it might deteriorate over time. Your bowl may be made of different stuff. I dont know. It will probably be OK, especially if you are checking it every month. As for myself, I will be giving this particular mod a miss.

 

[NancysToy]

Keep in mind that this filter is designed for use under high pressure. Under those conditions, oils, solvent, or heat could weaken the bowl until it failed unexpectedly, creating a safety hazard. Under ambient pressure conditions, for use as a catch can, I would not expect any problems.

 

[bjt]

Keep in mind that this filter is designed for use under high pressure. Under those conditions, oils, solvent, or heat could weaken the bowl until it failed unexpectedly, creating a safety hazard. Under ambient pressure conditions, for use as a catch can, I would not expect any problems.

+1. They are designed to remove water and oil from compressed air.

 

[Neez]

Keep in mind that this filter is designed for use under high pressure. Under those conditions, oils, solvent, or heat could weaken the bowl until it failed unexpectedly, creating a safety hazard. Under ambient pressure conditions, for use as a catch can, I would not expect any problems.

Yes, I'm sure that the manufacturer's concern is explosion at 150 psi. Also, while the corrosive or embritteling ( or whatever) factors are still present at ambient or crankcase pressures, they are unlikely to cause any leakage in this usage, at least for a long while. So, I believe it will be a satisfactory mod for Buelldog and others. The reason that I am am going to give it a miss is that I believe either the foam-in-hose or road draft tube to be simpler and better solutions, and that is only my humble opinion.

 

[GaryTheBadger]

I echo Buelldog...no stone filter, the oil drips off the exposed center tube of the Kobalt device and collects neatly at the bottom of the clear plastic cup,about 1/4" after 500 miles. No oil is reaching the added small air cleaner.

However, I am getting dripping from the bottom of the valve at the bottom of the cup, even with a rubber hose cap fitted tightly on the end, so I filled the black valve completely with silicone. Next ryde will tell if that worked.

 

[wyliec]

I echo Buelldog...no stone filter, the oil drips off the exposed center tube of the Kobalt device and collects neatly at the bottom of the clear plastic cup,about 1/4" after 500 miles. No oil is reaching the added small air cleaner.

However, I am getting dripping from the bottom of the valve at the bottom of the cup, even with a rubber hose cap fitted tightly on the end, so I filled the black valve completely with silicone. Next ryde will tell if that worked.

Did a 768 mile trip this weekend. I have the stone filter in place and will pull the panel tonight and see how things are doing. I think I will go with the 1/4 npt nipple in the center of the Kobalt. Just wondering if that nipple just presses in or do you have to use something like JB weld to keep it in place?

 

[Buelldog]

Screw In Nipple

Did a 768 mile trip this weekend. I have the stone filter in place and will pull the panel tonight and see how things are doing. I think I will go with the 1/4 npt nipple in the center of the Kobalt. Just wondering if that nipple just presses in or do you have to use something like JB weld to keep it in place?

It should screw right in.....I don't have the Kobalt but the 2 other trap assemblies I have both have threaded center port!!

 

[wyliec]

It should screw right in.....I don't have the Kobalt but the 2 other trap assemblies I have both have threaded center port!!

It doesn't have a threaded port. The only threads are those for the screw that hold the stone filter.

 

[Waynel]

Error

 

[MikeinGA]

I don't think it's a good to put an oil catch can close and above a header. If it leaks it could start a fire. That's IMHO.

Mike