Mounting brackets for driving lights higher up.

[UtahPete]

I've been looking to add more lighting both to be seen and to see. From everything I know about driving lights, the higher they are mounted, the greater effective distance a given lamp will throw the light. Many on here mount them on the A-arms or fenders, but for my purpose that is too low to the ground. So, I'm going to try mounting them up higher using existing strong attachment points and hopefully avoiding modification of the body panels in any way.

I decided on the Denali DR2 lights. Got them on sale at Twisted Throttle (they're 2015 models). Great build quality and heavier than I expected. I want to mount them higher than the A-arms and thinking about two locations (see pics). Has anyone used either of these locations and if so, what did you use for a bracket? My metal fabrication skills are practically nonexistent.

 

[SpyderAnn01]

I’m looking st your picture on my phone and I can’t tell exactly where you’re wanting to mount them but I’d warn you to pick a spot that won’t interfere with panel removal for oil changes.

 

[Chupaca]

Ooops...!

I think you forgot to upload the pictures. You would need a solid mounting place and hard to find the higher you go. Most cars run them above the bumper or on a light bar. :thumbup:

 

[JayBros]

I see and understand where you are considering mounting. Is the height on your Spyder where you are thinking about mounting going to cause you any problems with oncoming motorists if the lights are bright enough to be assumed by the motorist to be high beam headlights? What does UT motor vehicle law say about placement of such lights?

 

[Mazo EMS2]

You could mount them directly to those lower deflectors......the ones that are down and behind the windshield. Just pop a couple holes in each one. Then if it doesn't work out there, those are easily replaced....Just not sure how solid those are mounted though

 

[UtahPete]

I see and understand where you are considering mounting. Is the height on your Spyder where you are thinking about mounting going to cause you any problems with oncoming motorists if the lights are bright enough to be assumed by the motorist to be high beam headlights? What does UT motor vehicle law say about placement of such lights?

Good question; I don't have the answer. But, judging from all the jacked-up pickup trucks around here with their super-bright driving and fog lights above where I'm going to be mounting them, I don't think that's an issue!

As far as oncoming drivers go, I will have the ability to turn these off or dim them when I'm in traffic. My big concern is night riding on secondary roads.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

HIGH MOUNTED LIGHTS

You could mount them directly to those lower deflectors......the ones that are down and behind the windshield. Just pop a couple holes in each one. Then if it doesn't work out there, those are easily replaced....Just not sure how solid those are mounted though

:agree: ​, but My first thought , since you didn't want to make any holes in the OEM pieces was to make a 24 Ga sheet metal that would go between the side mirror and the body ..... But imho attaching a bracket to the mirror " underside " would work better and the holes would not be noticed if you removed them ...the led's would have to lightweight tho ..... Mike

 

[Lew L]

KISS principle

HI Pete,

A piece of steel strip about 3.5" with 3 holes and 2 spacers about 3/4" dia an 1" long.

Remove the bolts that hold the wind deflectors below the mirrors and install the strip using the 2 outer holes and spacers.

Install the light mount bracket in the center hole, run electrical.

Rinse, Repeat.

Lew L

 

[Lew L]

To thin

Honestly Pete, I think that the pictured metal is thin and will allow the light to vibrate. I would think a minimum of 1/8" steel or 3/16" aluminum would be much better. I think Lowes has the spacers I mentioned, in plastic. They might also have 1" wide strip metal but there has got to be some scrap around.

I used to have an old pancake griddle ( 1/8" aluminum) that I used for many a project.

Lew L

 

[Peter Aawen]

Like this? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...-Flat-Bar-with-1-16-in-Thick-802067/204225777

That flat strip is only 1/16th thick, & as such is likely to be too light to hold much in the way of weight, ie, single digit grams, not much more; especially not lights that you really don't want to be vibrating like buggery all the time!! :sour:

Look for 1/8th or thicker strap, if you are going that way; or work out how to triangulate it into a braced bracket!! There again, unless you mount it with those holes all perpendicular to the direction of airflow over them, they are probably going to whistle LOUDLY at one speed or another, & probably all on a slightly different note too! :shocked: So going for solid & thicker strap is probably a smarter choice. :thumbup:

 

[Mazo EMS2]

How about a piece of stainless between the headlight bezel, and the upper panel? Stainless is good and strong, and thin too. The proper bends and it might work to use the upper body panel mounting screw just under the mirror. It would be hard to drill and fab with, but it would be thin and strong to slip under body panels......

 

[UtahPete]

How about a piece of stainless between the headlight bezel, and the upper panel? Stainless is good and strong, and thin too. The proper bends and it might work to use the upper body panel mounting screw just under the mirror. It would be hard to drill and fab with, but it would be thin and strong to slip under body panels......

I've considered that. Aluminum is too thick for the strength I need and zinc-plated steel would need painting. Is there a source for stainless steel stock that you know of? Home Depot is where I've been shopping so far.

 

[UtahPete]

How about a piece of stainless between the headlight bezel, and the upper panel? Stainless is good and strong, and thin too. The proper bends and it might work to use the upper body panel mounting screw just under the mirror. It would be hard to drill and fab with, but it would be thin and strong to slip under body panels......

I'm really ignorant when it comes to metal fabrication. Is this thick enough do you think?

https://www.metals4uonline.com/stainless-steel-sheet-metal-304-10ga

Or, should I be looking at plate rather than sheet metal? That probably is not something I could bend with hand tools...

https://www.metals4uonline.com/stainless-steel-plate-304-2b-3_16ths

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

METAL BRACKET

I'm really ignorant when it comes to metal fabrication. Is this thick enough do you think?

https://www.metals4uonline.com/stainless-steel-sheet-metal-304-10ga

Or, should I be looking at plate rather than sheet metal? That probably is not something I could bend with hand tools...

https://www.metals4uonline.com/stainless-steel-plate-304-2b-3_16ths

:yikes: ... OMG, #1....the cost is so over the top ... " ridiculous " doesn't even cover it ----- #2.... at that thickness the light you are mounting could weigh 25lbs. and the bracket wouldn't move ...... I have quite a bit of experience in using / building brackets for various purposes. The bracket only needs to be strong and/or stiff enough to carry the weight of the object. As an example , the stainless steel at .135" is actually twice as thick as the OEM frame that supports the front shocks ( I'm not guessing - I measured it ) which carry the entire weight of the front end of the Spyder .... As long as you aren't sticking the light out from the mounting point ( and you shouldn't if at all possible ) by quite a bit, 20 or 22 ga. galvanized sheet metal would be stronger than necessary .... Home Depot , Lowe's, and even Auto & regular hardware stores have small squares of sheet stock .... If you can't find something in that thickness .....glue two pieces together either after you have made bends or before the glue sets up ......good luck annnnnnnnnnnd Merry Christmas, ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[UtahPete]

:yikes: ... OMG, #1....the cost is so over the top ... " ridiculous " doesn't even cover it ----- #2.... at that thickness the light you are mounting could weigh 25lbs. and the bracket wouldn't move ...... I have quite a bit of experience in using / building brackets for various purposes. The bracket only needs to be strong and/or stiff enough to carry the weight of the object. As an example , the stainless steel at .135" is actually twice as thick as the OEM frame that supports the front shocks ( I'm not guessing - I measured it ) which carry the entire weight of the front end of the Spyder .... As long as you aren't sticking the light out from the mounting point ( and you shouldn't if at all possible ) by quite a bit, 20 or 22 ga. galvanized sheet metal would be stronger than necessary .... Home Depot , Lowe's, and even Auto & regular hardware stores have small squares of sheet stock .... If you can't find something in that thickness .....glue two pieces together either after you have made bends or before the glue sets up ......good luck annnnnnnnnnnd Merry Christmas, ..... Mike :thumbup:

Mike, are you referring to the sheet or plate?
I agree the price is over the top. Where to buy?
What do you use to 'glue' pieces of sheet metal together?

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

BRACKET METAL

Mike, are you referring to the sheet or plate?
I agree the price is over the top. Where to buy?
What do you use to 'glue' pieces of sheet metal together?

YOU - posted a LINK to both !!! ... the SS is " sheet " ...the other is soooo thick it would called " plate " ........... " Where to buy " - re-read my post !!!!!! ............. " glue " their are dozens of types that work with Metal ....read the labels, and pay attention to the DRYING times ................ Mike :thumbup:

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

SS

I haven't been able to find stainless steel sheet metal at my local Home Depot or Lowe's, which is why I was asking about sourcing it.

SS is not normally used for much .... so if you don't have a Metal Yard business in your area ....On-line is probably your only choice .... I have access to a YARD nearby in a City of only 12,000 people !! .... Why do you want to use Stainless, it's pretty brittle, so bending it may be a problem for you ..... Are you concerned about ...RUST .... if so just use a paint for metal - and after it dries to the touch - put the part on a piece of wood and put it your oven at 325* for about 10min ....... this HARD cures the paint, bakes out any AIR moisture from the metal surface, and makes the paint about twice as abrasion resistant.....This also allows you to have your part in any color you want ...... I'm posting this because someone else may benefit from the info ....... annnnnnnnnnnd ....Merry Christmas ....... Mike :thumbup:

 

[Eviltwin]

You won't find any SS at one of the big box stores. Your best bet would be to see if there is a metal fab shop somewhere in the area. I used to own an older Airstream and on several occasions needed parts made that were beyond my journeyman metal skills. They have the machines to cut and bend the metal as well as good supplies of stock material to choose from. The prices I paid were pretty reasonable even considering the cost of materials and my time.

I would look at mounting it with a bracket that sits under the lower clear air deflector or look at fabbing something that lets it mount to the inner side of the front fenders. If you mount to the fenders then the lights would follow the bends in the road which may be better for dark rural roads.

 

[pegasus1300]

Give Dallas Thacker in Oakley a call. Tell him Paul DeGrey sent you. Show him what you want and ask him if will make it and how much. If he wont ask him if he has any suitable metal he will sell you.

 

[Mikey]

I haven't been able to find stainless steel sheet metal at my local Home Depot or Lowe's, which is why I was asking about sourcing it.

Do you have tractor supply stores in your area? they have what your looking for