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Mixing two oils both within spec
- Thread starter fas2000
- Start date
wyliec
New member
bmccaffrey
New member
Perfectly fine:thumbup:
KX5062
Active member
Your choice, of course, but for me and technically, yes.
mtdoragary
New member
You can. But since there are two different basic types of pure synthetic oil, I would PREFER to make sure I didn't mix the two different types. That said, if nothing else is available, topping off with ANY oil is better than running too low! I've been using synthetic oil for forty years.
Highwayman2013
New member
Yes
BajaRon
Well-known member
Many years ago the answer would have been much different. (Some of this fueled by oil companies trying to generate loyalty but some truth to it as well).
But those days are long gone. (Well, the problem part, not the brand loyalty part)
Most oils will degrade the performance of Amsoil because Amsoil is a superior lubricant. But even a bit degraded, Amsoil will still outperform most other products.
Be sure you're using a decent quality oil. Blended is ok. BRP blended or synthetic is fine because both are wet clutch rated, etc., and obviously meet all specs. If you are using another brand to top off just be sure the ratings are compatible with your Spyder. The oils will be compatible, no problem.
Really, it's not the big deal it used to be in years gone by.
But those days are long gone. (Well, the problem part, not the brand loyalty part)
Most oils will degrade the performance of Amsoil because Amsoil is a superior lubricant. But even a bit degraded, Amsoil will still outperform most other products.
Be sure you're using a decent quality oil. Blended is ok. BRP blended or synthetic is fine because both are wet clutch rated, etc., and obviously meet all specs. If you are using another brand to top off just be sure the ratings are compatible with your Spyder. The oils will be compatible, no problem.
Really, it's not the big deal it used to be in years gone by.
mtdoragary
New member
synthetic
Like I said, I would stick with one brand such as Mobil1 or Amsoil just to keep the chemistry compatible. It won't HURT to mix, but it might HELP not to mix. .Good synthetic oils often use a combination of up to three different synthetic base fluids, including synthetic esters, polyalphaolefin (PAO) and alkylated aromatics. Regardless of the exact chemical makeup, synthetics share similarities. Whereas conventional oils contain molecules of varying sizes, the molecular structures in synthetics are consistent in mass and shape. This uniformity means those molecules create less friction as they collide, and less friction means less heat.
In essence, each synthetic manufacturer can create designer molecules to create oil with specific performance properties. They also mix in additives and other liquids such as detergents, dispersants,antioxidants, friction modifiers and anti-wear additives, all in varying amounts tweaked to result in an exact blend for specific environmental conditions.
As a result of this control over chemistry, synthetics have a number of significant advantages over conventional oil. You already know that synthetics flow better in cold weather, making engine starts easier and offering better protection. In addition, synthetics resist viscosity changes at extremely high temperatures that can break down or evaporate molecules in conventional oil. When this kind of deterioration happens, metal-on-metal contact may occur, causing permanent damage to the engine.
Because synthetics are slicker than conventional oil, they allow for smoother, cooler engine operation. That means more horsepower and better gas mileage. But in some cases, that same super-slick consistency may exacerbate existing internal or external engine leaks, resulting in blow-by and burn-off. Keep in mind that this happens only in engines where leaks are already an issue.
Like I said, I would stick with one brand such as Mobil1 or Amsoil just to keep the chemistry compatible. It won't HURT to mix, but it might HELP not to mix. .Good synthetic oils often use a combination of up to three different synthetic base fluids, including synthetic esters, polyalphaolefin (PAO) and alkylated aromatics. Regardless of the exact chemical makeup, synthetics share similarities. Whereas conventional oils contain molecules of varying sizes, the molecular structures in synthetics are consistent in mass and shape. This uniformity means those molecules create less friction as they collide, and less friction means less heat.
In essence, each synthetic manufacturer can create designer molecules to create oil with specific performance properties. They also mix in additives and other liquids such as detergents, dispersants,antioxidants, friction modifiers and anti-wear additives, all in varying amounts tweaked to result in an exact blend for specific environmental conditions.
As a result of this control over chemistry, synthetics have a number of significant advantages over conventional oil. You already know that synthetics flow better in cold weather, making engine starts easier and offering better protection. In addition, synthetics resist viscosity changes at extremely high temperatures that can break down or evaporate molecules in conventional oil. When this kind of deterioration happens, metal-on-metal contact may occur, causing permanent damage to the engine.
Because synthetics are slicker than conventional oil, they allow for smoother, cooler engine operation. That means more horsepower and better gas mileage. But in some cases, that same super-slick consistency may exacerbate existing internal or external engine leaks, resulting in blow-by and burn-off. Keep in mind that this happens only in engines where leaks are already an issue.
OwnerOfHarriet
New member
all good oils are compatible -- no problem mixing them
I've done and will continue to do it if the need arises
I've done and will continue to do it if the need arises
Thanks for all the replies. No I was meaning to say it was not going to be just an ounce.
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SNOOPY
Active member
With the question answered here, let me ask another...
It was stated here that Amsoil is a superior oil compared to others...why?
Why would we think that Amsoil is superior to (let's say) Mobil who spends millions of dollars on development and consistency?
I know lots of places that sell Amsoil and know they have been around awhile, but why do we think their oil is worth twice as much in some cases than other major brands?
Personally I think quality oil has reached its limit. I don't particularly care if they say I can go 10,000 miles between changes (or in BMWs case 15,000 miles), I'm changing my oil every 3,500-4,000 miles like I always have. Oil gets dirty, it needs to be changed.
Great that we say it lasts longer, that pleases the environmentalist, but it still needs to be changed when dirty. :dontknow:
.
It was stated here that Amsoil is a superior oil compared to others...why?
Why would we think that Amsoil is superior to (let's say) Mobil who spends millions of dollars on development and consistency?
I know lots of places that sell Amsoil and know they have been around awhile, but why do we think their oil is worth twice as much in some cases than other major brands?
Personally I think quality oil has reached its limit. I don't particularly care if they say I can go 10,000 miles between changes (or in BMWs case 15,000 miles), I'm changing my oil every 3,500-4,000 miles like I always have. Oil gets dirty, it needs to be changed.
Great that we say it lasts longer, that pleases the environmentalist, but it still needs to be changed when dirty. :dontknow:
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Your right snoopy. Which is why I stopped over thinking oil quite a few years ago. I always say, run what works for you and puts a smile on your face.
BajaRon
Well-known member
Why is bottled water better than tap? They look identical. And tap water is much cheaper and easier to get!
Why is billet better than pot cast metal? (as in the windshield arm on the RT). You will have people say 'I've run my windshield up and down for 50,000 miles and it's fine. You don't need a better windshield arm. While at the same time these broken arms are causing a fair number of riders a great deal of grief.
They say 'The proof is in the pudding' and they are right.
I'm not saying that Amsoil is the best possible oil, nor am I saying that we are all going to die if we don't use it. It's just a very good option for lubricating your Spyder. And 'Why' is a very good question.
It is a proven fact that an Engineered oil (ie. Amsoil and a few others) is a better lubricant than a doctored mineral oil (ie. most so called 'Synthetics'). The additive package in these 'Synthetics' is not designed to lubricate, it is designed to protect the weak oil chains from damage and breakdown. Once the additives go away (which they do) then the oil breaks down pretty quickly and your lubrication goes away.
I don't want to bore people by rehashing the details. And they are readily available if you want to do the research. Everyone has an oil opinion, but how many are based on fact and actual testing? Not that I blame people. Research takes time and it's a hassle to have your oil tested. Very few do either.
As far as 'Dirty', that is what filters are for. I've run as far a 6,400 miles of very hot, very hard, somewhat torturous miles and had my oil tested. Not only was it not 'Dirty' but the parameters were well within specs.
You can change your oil as often as you like, it's your Spyder. And if you're not using a true, engineered at the refinery stage synthetic oil like Amsoil, and you're not having it tested, I highly recommend changing it at 3,000-3,500 miles. Especially if you're riding 2 up and or pulling a trailer. Not because it will be dirty, because it's probably not. But because it's almost certainly going away and you're no longer getting the required protection.
Highwayman2013
New member
So the tests done by a member of this site that amsoil lost viscosity by 4000 miles means nothing? All oil breaks down better or best? Superior? Doubt it!
