Marvel Mystry Oil

[Bob Ledford]

Perhaps it could be used as cologne? :yikes:

Chris

Only you would think of marketing it as a men's cologne! But your right it would probably be a good market definitely a niche market

 

[MouthPiece]

I use mmo in the engine on my boat both in the crank case and fuel. It solved the problem I had with a lazy ring 3 years ago. My engine is a 1987 Yanmar. I would not use in the Spyder.

I'm not sure if what I use (Bell Performance "Marine MXO") is the same as what you use, but my boat dealership has several vials of popular additives mixed with gas (including seafoam, Stabil, adnauseam). It's a great demonstration of how each separates out the water. It, the Marine MXO has been a miracle for my boat motor. I've used it on my spyder, but because I ride my spyder all the time, I can't say I see much difference.


Chris

 

[prmurat]

I am using MMO in all of my vehicles including the Spyder: it keeps all the gas lines /jets (as in injectors) clean and "greasy" which IMHO is good with the gas offered now.

 

[SpyderFun]

Cost of Engine Rebuild?

I would be willing to bet that if anyone who adds an "unauthorized oil additive" to their Spyder, BRP (Rotaxx)would consider that engines warranty null and void. nojoke

Something to think about BEFORE adding anything to your fuel or oil systems....

 

[pro10is]

I'm not sure if what I use (Bell Performance "Marine MXO") is the same as what you use, but my boat dealership has several vials of popular additives mixed with gas (including seafoam, Stabil, adnauseam). It's a great demonstration of how each separates out the water...

I hope this boat dealership is trying to show you how bad some additives actually are because the -last- thing you want any fuel additive to do is to separate out the water. That's called phase separation and it can be destructive to an engine especially on a boat where water is a real problem. A proper fuel additive should do exactly the opposite and keep the water suspended with the fuel so it can pass harmlessly through the engine in tiny amounts where it is then vaporized. Some additives like Seafoam are out of date and use ethanol or isopropyl alcohol to try to hold the water (alcohol is hygroscopic, it attracts and holds water). Most gasoline today already has 10% ethanol, if you add even more it may attract so much water that phase separation occurs. When this happens the water, which is heavier than gas, will sink right to the bottom of the tank. That's where most fuel intakes are. Now the engine will start sucking in water and sludge instead of fuel. You can imagine what happens next. If the manufacturer positioned the fuel intake up higher (to avoid this problem) the water will sit permanently at the bottom of the tank causing rust and sludge to build up. It will continue to accumulate until there is so much it finally reaches the fuel intake.

Bottom line is that additives can either be useful or they can actually be quite harmful. There are just too many older formulations around which are no longer compatible with modern fuels and oils or are downright useless. Never decide on an additive solely by word of mouth, people just don't know enough about additives and go by gut feelings or bad advice. That's not good enough information to risk damaging your motor. If you're going to pour some chemicals in your very expensive modern engine know exactly what it contains and the science behind how it works.

 

[MMcc]

MMO

Used it often on the old bikes and cars in the collection. Never tried it in the spyder. I had a 1961 Zundapp that continued to have carb problems no matter how many times I rebuilt it. On day on a whim I started the bike let it warm up and idle was rough and would bog down on acceleration. Added some MMO to the tank and splashed it around. Started the bike and rode up the driveway. About 2 miles down the road the bike engine kind of stumbled and then smoothed out. Turned around to head back as I did not want to get stranded. Made it home without problems. The bike idled the best I can remember. Took it for another drive about 5 miles out this time. Acceleration was good with no hesitation. Don't know if the MMO cured the problem but for the next 5 years I owned the bike it would get a dose of MMO 2 or 3 times a summer. Problem never came back. Again old engine, ethanol gas, who knows. I still use it in my 50's era cars.

 

[n7wol]

MMO and Star-tron usage

I use MMO in my F250 Diesel to lub the injector pump now that lubrication has been removed from Diesel. On the Spyder I use Star-tron or Sol-tron. I get the Concentrated version then use a turkey baster with a tube on it to put the .25 oz in the 5 gal fill-up. I also try to get non-ethynol fuel when I can http://pure-gas.org to find where to find it

 

[MouthPiece]

I hope this boat dealership is trying to show you how bad some additives actually are because the -last- thing you want any fuel additive to do is to separate out the water. That's called phase separation and it can be destructive to an engine especially on a boat where water is a real problem. A proper fuel additive should do exactly the opposite and keep the water suspended with the fuel so it can pass harmlessly through the engine in tiny amounts where it is then vaporized. Some additives like Seafoam are out of date and use ethanol or isopropyl alcohol to try to hold the water (alcohol is hygroscopic, it attracts and holds water). Most gasoline today already has 10% ethanol, if you add even more it may attract so much water that phase separation occurs. When this happens the water, which is heavier than gas, will sink right to the bottom of the tank. That's where most fuel intakes are. Now the engine will start sucking in water and sludge instead of fuel. You can imagine what happens next. If the manufacturer positioned the fuel intake up higher (to avoid this problem) the water will sit permanently at the bottom of the tank causing rust and sludge to build up. It will continue to accumulate until there is so much it finally reaches the fuel intake.

Bottom line is that additives can either be useful or they can actually be quite harmful. There are just too many older formulations around which are no longer compatible with modern fuels and oils or are downright useless. Never decide on an additive solely by word of mouth, people just don't know enough about additives and go by gut feelings or bad advice. That's not good enough information to risk damaging your motor. If you're going to pour some chemicals in your very expensive modern engine know exactly what it contains and the science behind how it works.

And that was exactly my point. The XMO had liddle biddy teeny weeny beads (for lack of a better term) of water in the gas. The others looked like big globs of water that had been separated out. Almost what you saw in the legendary Gulf spill.

Chris

 

[pro10is]

And that was exactly my point. The XMO had liddle biddy teeny weeny beads (for lack of a better term) of water in the gas. The others looked like big globs of water that had been separated out. Almost what you saw in the legendary Gulf spill. Chris

Bell Performance XMO is a modern formulation (2009) that does not use alcohol. You were fortunate to have seen a visual demonstration showing an effective additive as opposed to some others. We all need to be well informed about any additives we choose to use. There are great ones, good ones, and unfortunately some real klunkers out there. Choose wisely.

 

[Mad Mike]

Marvel Mystery Oil

For what it's worth, I'm far from a mechanical expert. I started using Marvel Mystery Oil (appx. 2 oz +/-) in each tank just before the Owners Event in Maggie Valley. The Rotax in my RT runs with less vibration, accelerates smoother, and maybe just fixes the 7" gap between my ears. Whatever the case may be, I have noticed a HUGE difference in regard to vibration reduction and the engine runs very, very smooth. It never ran this smooth prior to using Marvel Mystery Oil. I may be killing my engine, I don't know how, but I paid for it. I, for one, know it works...