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Manual vs automatic transmission.

We test drive the bike yesterday and it turned out to be a 2013 instead of a 2014. Neither my wife nor I had any issues with the clutch once we got the feel. That being the case it may come down to dollars since we are now going to buying 2 at the same time. Going to the dealer ship tomorrow and see if 2 new can fit into the budget. This is the most fun work I have had in a while.
 
We test drive the bike yesterday and it turned out to be a 2013 instead of a 2014. Neither my wife nor I had any issues with the clutch once we got the feel. That being the case it may come down to dollars since we are now going to buying 2 at the same time. Going to the dealer ship tomorrow and see if 2 new can fit into the budget. This is the most fun work I have had in a while.

If it was the '13, you should definitely try out the '14 or later model. You'll appreciate the bigger engine. JMHO.
 
With me we're a crowd...:roflblack: I love the control, being able to pull the clutch and coast downhill, use my engine compression and save my brakes (33,000 miles and still within spec's) sliding the clutch for that extra leap to get my butt outta the way. Once rolling upshifting I don't even use the clutch and the asist makes it very easy compared to other bikes....I'm with you guys.....but for a new comer learning to do different things with each limb can be dificult. :thumbup:

Definitely a crowd if you include me! My F3S is a manual and I love it. My RS-S was a semiauto and I loved it too but most of the time wished it was a manual (except when stuck in super bad traffic for a long time). I do recall a number of people (in the beginning) saying that their semi-auto F3s went into limp mode on the freeway. Maybe those bugs had been worked out but I don't think I'd want to risk it. Besides, you have more control with a manual and more fun IMHO... but definitely test ride both and see what you think. If you do get stuck in bad traffic a lot, maybe a semiauto isn't a bad idea though.
 
. . . I can see the attraction of the semi auto for brand new riders. I agree with Chupaca (on most things) about saving brakes with the manual and letting the engine slow the bike down. . .

I'm hardly a 'brand new rider" - been riding since the mid-60's. I love the SE shifter.

As for engine braking, I hate to burst your bubble, but you can do that with the SE as well - all you need do is downshift.
 
:hun: You do all realise that don't HAVE to let the SE change down for you, you can actually change up & down manually via the flappy paddles & even engine brake with the SE, don't you?? :shocked:

In fact, the SE is the same gearbox as the manual, it's just the SE's have a (slightly) different clutch arrangement & an electronic shifter over the manual box, so that you CAN change up & down safer & faster than with a manual & you CAN'T miss a change or blow up a gear (or anything else) cos you stuffed it!! Pretty much anything you can do with a manual except stuff it up can be done with the SE.... :sour:

I really dunno what all the fuss is about - there's no real difference between the 2 gearboxes except that with one you use the thumb & forefinger of your left hand, & with the other you use a couple of left hand fingers & your left foot. Oh, and that the entire transport industry is moving towards Electronic Shifters over manual boxes (like the SE) because overall, they've proven to be far more long lasting & reliable (over millions of miles); they've resulted in better reliability & fuel economy from the engines they are running behind; & the vehicle operator is far less likely to be able to break other parts of the drivetrain.... ;)

But it really is just your choice :thumbup:

(Edit: Damn, you beat me Dan, I shoulda typed faster! :p )
 
The SE always does engine-braking. You don't even have to manually shift down for this, unless you just want even harder braking at higher speeds. (Well, that's with the 1330... manual-downshift braking is much more useful on the V-Twin.)

Conversely, you can never free-wheel with the SE, that I know of. When you idle the throttle, you are engine-braking all the way down to 3-4mph, where the automatic clutch finally disengages to permit a full stop. If I time things just right, I can approach stop-signs at 50-60mph and not use the brake until I'm down to 1st gear, sometimes 2nd gear if I waited too long to release the throttle. I don't see that the SM would have much advantage over the SE in saving brake pads.

For pushing without the engine, the SE is no problem; it's never holding the machine anyway, no matter what gear it's in. However, this is why you must always use the parking brake, and ya gotta turn the key to release the brake (but not to shift to neutral).
For the beepless push: 1) turn key; 2) release brake; 3) push; 4) set brake; 5) turn key back off.
 
Definitely a crowd if you include me! My F3S is a manual and I love it. My RS-S was a semiauto and I loved it too but most of the time wished it was a manual (except when stuck in super bad traffic for a long time). I do recall a number of people (in the beginning) saying that their semi-auto F3s went into limp mode on the freeway. Maybe those bugs had been worked out but I don't think I'd want to risk it. Besides, you have more control with a manual and more fun IMHO... but definitely test ride both and see what you think. If you do get stuck in bad traffic a lot, maybe a semiauto isn't a bad idea though.

Did you have the New Clutch valving put in the SM6 because my 2015 F3 Clutch is a pain in the Rear compared to my 2012 SM5?
 
F3 or F3 S - auto or manual?

I know this is an old tread but I have the same question now. I read all the answers here. So rather than a new thread since this one is not closed, I am asking my question here.

I ride a H-D Tri Glide and have been riding trikes for many years. Thinking about getting a second trike (something different). Found H-D Freewheeler a poor fit. About 2 - 4 inches too close to bars from as far as I could go back in seat.

Waiting for nearby dealer to put a F3 (base) together so I can give it a test ride. Other than the fancier gauge cluster which I like, what what make F3 S worth the extra money? :dontknow:

Resigned to giving up hand brake but I think I would prefer a manual since I am use to riding motorcycles with manuals. :dontknow:

New F3, F3 S, and used F3 with manuals seem hard to find in East Tennessee.

Opinions requested.

Coastie
(a newby to Spyders)

CG.GIF
 
Seeing that my wife and I are new riders I need thoughts on one vs the other.
The clutch I tried on a new F3 not running was almost to hard to use.

You kind of answered your own question. Go with the SE.
 
I know this is an old tread but I have the same question now. I read all the answers here. So rather than a new thread since this one is not closed, I am asking my question here.

I ride a H-D Tri Glide and have been riding trikes for many years. Thinking about getting a second trike (something different). Found H-D Freewheeler a poor fit. About 2 - 4 inches too close to bars from as far as I could go back in seat.

Waiting for nearby dealer to put a F3 (base) together so I can give it a test ride. Other than the fancier gauge cluster which I like, what what make F3 S worth the extra money? :dontknow:

Resigned to giving up hand brake but I think I would prefer a manual since I am use to riding motorcycles with manuals. :dontknow:

New F3, F3 S, and used F3 with manuals seem hard to find in East Tennessee.

Opinions requested.

Coastie
(a newby to Spyders)

View attachment 188711

Test ride both of them. I have an F3-S with manual and I love it, but I also test rode a semi-auto. I can see the allure, but I still prefer manual just out of habit. I also like the fact that I can leave the bike in gear and not HAVE TO put on the parking brake if I don't want to. Good luck with your choice!
 
IMO, the parking brake is a minor inconvenience that is far outweighed by the ease of shifting the SE. Quite a few new owners whose experience has only been with manual shifting and who have posted here have said it took them only minutes (slight exaggeration) to make the change and would never go back to a manual shift. I can think of no good reason to stick with manual shifting. And just so you know, the SE model does not have an automatic transmission, per se. It is the same transmission as the manual shift. The only difference is the clutch and shifting mechanism are electro/hydraulic. You can manually make the shift up or down. Down shifting as you come to a stop is automatic but you can also manually downshift if you want to before the auto downshift occurs. You will always be in 1st gear when you come to a stop.
 
After 60+ years on two wheels, i test rode the SE6 ('auto') and fell in love! That was in '15. Still love it! Admittedly, sometimes i miss the leans AND i absolutely LOVE that is does NOT fall over. AND i do not have to avoid gravel parking lots. The only thing i 'miss' (sort of) is the front brake handle. I may have to find a job, tho - fell in love with the 20 RT, but the pandemic trashed the income.
 
I seem to be on the odd side - I have an RTS with the semi-auto and wish I'd gone for the standard RT with the manual. There are things I like to do when riding that I can't do with the auto - when merging on the highway, sometimes I like to wind out second, hit third, then when I'm up to speed, ease off and bypass the gears to sixth. Can't do that with and SE. Also when riding back roads and coming to and stop, intersection, or what have you, just downshift to neutral and coast up. Again, not with the SE. dropping the clutch when taking off doesn't work either, the SE slips the clutch to get you going.

Overall it's a nice system, but I'm a bit confused. If it's down shift for you, why no go all the way with a full DCT/Auto?

As always, my opinion is worth everything you paid for it.
 
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