• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Making the 2013 Spyder RT-S "Perfect"

While I was installing the new BajaRon spark plug wire set, I noticed that the OEM plugs that I've run for the last 4500 miles, did not look the same. The plug on the right is from the rear cylinder and it looks to be running a little rich. The plug on the left is from the front cylinder and I'd say that it is running perfect. The left plug looks lean, but I think that is only because the right plug makes you think that. This is one reason why I am adding the dual channel AutoTune - so that I can get a map specific for each cylinder. Any thoughts or comments?

Plugs.jpg
 
Another small enhancement that I have done is to apply reflective tape to the gas tank. I've stated before that I have never had boiling gas or even a hot gas cap, but I am all about preventive maintenance and this should definitely reduce the amount of heat absorbed by the gas tank.

ReflectiveTape-1.jpg ReflectiveTape-2.jpg ReflectiveTape-3.jpg
 
While I was installing the new BajaRon spark plug wire set, I noticed that the OEM plugs that I've run for the last 4500 miles, did not look the same. The plug on the right is from the rear cylinder and it looks to be running a little rich. The plug on the left is from the front cylinder and I'd say that it is running perfect. The left plug looks lean, but I think that is only because the right plug makes you think that. This is one reason why I am adding the dual channel AutoTune - so that I can get a map specific for each cylinder. Any thoughts or comments?

View attachment 81092

My comment is more of a question. When are you going to open up your own shop so that many of us can come use your services? <smiles>

​Chris
 

My comment is more of a question. When are you going to open up your own shop so that many of us can come use your services? <smiles>

​Chris

Well, I am a software engineer by day and just tinker with my bikes on my off time. If you lived closer or want to make the drive to NY, I'd be happy to help you with what I can. Until then, just ask questions as there are more than enough people here who can help you :)
 
While I was installing the new BajaRon spark plug wire set, I noticed that the OEM plugs that I've run for the last 4500 miles, did not look the same. The plug on the right is from the rear cylinder and it looks to be running a little rich. The plug on the left is from the front cylinder and I'd say that it is running perfect. The left plug looks lean, but I think that is only because the right plug makes you think that. This is one reason why I am adding the dual channel AutoTune - so that I can get a map specific for each cylinder. Any thoughts or comments?

View attachment 81092

That is interesting. I would be sending that picture to both BRP and my dealer and asking why they look the way they do. It should be an interesting answer.:thumbup:
 
That is interesting. I would be sending that picture to both BRP and my dealer and asking why they look the way they do. It should be an interesting answer.:thumbup:

From what I know and from what I've researched, this is not uncommon for V-Twin engines. Especially for air cooled engines where the rear cylinder gets less air flow to it. With a liquid cooled V-Twin, I have seen where there are still other factors that can have the same effect, but are not as prominent due to the liquid cooling. I wonder if that is what is going on with mine. Either way, the AutoTune will fix it :)
 
While I was installing the new BajaRon spark plug wire set, I noticed that the OEM plugs that I've run for the last 4500 miles, did not look the same. The plug on the right is from the rear cylinder and it looks to be running a little rich. The plug on the left is from the front cylinder and I'd say that it is running perfect. The left plug looks lean, but I think that is only because the right plug makes you think that. This is one reason why I am adding the dual channel AutoTune - so that I can get a map specific for each cylinder. Any thoughts or comments?

View attachment 81092

Actually I would be surprised if they both looked like the left plug; I was expecting both plugs to close to the one on the right. I say this because of the heat - I think the engine is set to run a bit rich to help keep things cooler.

The plugs, as shown in the pic, remind me of all air and water cooled V twins that are carburetored. When you look at the jets, the rear cylinder is always jetted with a bigger jet because it tends to run hotter.

I think the PC-V with auto tune will allow greater precision to maintaining an optimal F/A ratio for each cylinder whether tuned for max power, best MPG, or somewhere between. That said, to realize this potential, I think you have to get as much of the heat out of the engine within the tupperware so it doesn't affect parts like the vacuum hoses (so these areas do not adversely affect F/A).

Jerry
Edit: the power curve comparing the 2014 and 2013 engine shows just how much more stout the 2014 engine is across the entire RPM range (there is no substitution for cubic inches): http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/96773...y-Photo/2014-Can-Am-Spyder-RT-First-Look.aspx

2 other thoughts:
- I applaud all efforts to improve the V-twin platform. It is still a very capable ride worth the investment and effort, just be mindful of the investment amount. At some point, the 2014 with more capable engine is the better "investment".
- I expect the triple to run cooler because of the routing of the exhaust pipes. The pipes exit the top cylinder front, go down and under the engine, and out the back. They do not route up under the bodywork, by the gas tank and out the back.
 
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Can't wait to see

I am new to this. I just purchased MidLifeCrisis's 2010 RT-S SM5. He has done lots of mods, but I am extremely interested in the removal of the Cat and the addition of the PC-V.
 
Thanks

Thanks for the informative reply. I'm spending this long cold Ohio winter straddling the fence between a heavily discounted 2013 which I could easily afford to do mods as neeeded or antying up full or nearly full MSRP for a 2014. Time will tell whether or not the new 1330cc motor and six speed tranny are reliable or not. I'm content to just wait things out for a few months or even to the 2015 models. At any rate the 2013s will seem like bargains compared to the new ones when the dealers up here start getting shipments of new 2014 RTs. How big of a discount will determine to me whether spending a few grand on modifications would be worth it or not. Thanks for your explanations and I'll keep on following your progress.
 
Edit: the power curve comparing the 2014 and 2013 engine shows just how much more stout the 2014 engine is across the entire RPM range (there is no substitution for cubic inches).

Coming from the MX world, graphs and charts don't always reflect what you feel on the track, or in this the case, the street. There is no doubt that the 2014 has more everything according to the numbers, but is it enough to dump a new bike when the seat of the pants differences might not be that huge? I say this because of two different reviews I have read about the 2014. Here is the link to one of them and some quotes that stood out in my mind:

http://www.ridermagazine.com/top-stories/2014-can-am-spyder-rt-first-ride-review.htm/

"Can-Am says it makes 96 lb-ft of torque vs. 80 in the V-twin, and 115 horsepower vs. 100. Not exactly eyeball-flattening in a machine that weighs a claimed 1,012 pounds dry—about 60 pounds more than the 2013 RT—but the curve is such that the bike has about 40 percent more low-end torque than before, the better for cruising, climbing hills and carrying a passenger and gear as well as towing a trailer."

"While roll-on testing back-to-back with a 2013 RT V-twin at the 2014 launch last week in Florida showed the new RT triple is not appreciably quicker at lower speeds, BRP Project Leader Michael Tissier said the goal was to improve roll-on acceleration from 80-120 kph, or 50-75 mph, and there it does feel stronger and less busy than the revvier twin."

It's funny because the first quote by BRP and the second quote by the reviewer contradict themselves - this is what I am talking about. There was a second review that actually said the 2013 felt quicker out of the hole. If the changes are focused to be most noticed between 50-75 MPH, or towing a trailer, then that does not fit my riding. In addition, it is still a new and unproven engine which is why I decided to stick with the 2013.


I applaud all efforts to improve the V-twin platform. It is still a very capable ride worth the investment and effort, just be mindful of the investment amount. At some point, the 2014 with more capable engine is the better "investment".

Agreed. Any time you make changes to any bike, you are unlikely to ever get that money back out of it. I typically keep my bikes for a long time (5-10 years) so that is the justification I use for doing so. If I was looking to turn this over in a couple of years, then I would really be in the hole. At this point, I am not sure the 2014 is a better investment, again, it is unproven, and the engine size does not obsolete the V-Twin. If they had gone to maybe a 1600cc or 1800cc engine, then it would be different story. Based on the reviews I have read, and the modifications I am making, I think the V-Twin will be pretty close to a stock 1330 - and maybe better on the low-end / off the line department.


I expect the triple to run cooler because of the routing of the exhaust pipes. The pipes exit the top cylinder front, go down and under the engine, and out the back. They do not route up under the bodywork, by the gas tank and out the back.

Yes, I do too. For those with a 2010-2013, there are plenty of things that can be done to alleviate the heat and move it out of the tupperware. It all boils down to how committed people are to wanting to resolve issues that they perceive as real for themselves.
 
As a follow-up to the evap canister removal, a friend of mine on this forum called me out for using a plastic fuel filter as opposed to a steel one. When I bought the parts needed, I actually bought both and had decided to install the plastic one. Since there is more room in there than I had anticipated and to be as preventative as I can, I swapped out the plastic fuel filter for the steel one.

EvapCanister-4.jpg

Here is a great shot from the backside that again shows how much room has been opened up by removing the canister.

EvapCanister-5.jpg
 
I'm REAL glad that you're only a touch over three hours away from me!! :2thumbs:
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3_3_102.gif
NOTE TO SELF: Get his address and phone number quickly!)
 
Since it has been below zero for the last few days, I decided to start spending my time indoors chipping away at what I could. I ended up getting the Spyderpops Bump Skid installed. I don't believe that it is required to remove the frunk, but I already had mine off for all of the other work that I'm doing. Besides, due to gravity, I'm sure it is much easier to install the bump skid with the frunk off rather than on. Here is what the stock front end looks like.

Bump Skid - 1.jpg

Once you flip over the frunk, you will need to remove the stock skid plate - if you can really call it that :)

Bump Skid - 2.jpg Bump Skid - 3.jpg

The next step was to remove the 4 plastic rivets at the top part of the wings - 2 on each side. You replace them with 4 of the provided threaded clips, and secure the bump skid with the 4 provided screws. By securing the bump skid using the 4 screws, it allows you to use the bump skid as a template to drill the 8 holes across the nose as seen below. Drill them out to 1/4" and then remove the bump skid. You then need to insert the 8 threaded clips.

Bump Skid - 4.jpg Bump Skid - 5.jpg

OK. I just realized that you can only upload 5 pictures per post, so I'll continue this in the next post .....
 
After the clips are in place, all you have to do is insert all 12 screws and tighten. Here is the finished product.

Bump Skid - 6.jpg Bump Skid - 7.jpg

This was an incredibly easy install and I am very happy with the quality of the material. It is very thick and is no doubt extremely durable. In addition, I think it enhances the look of the front end. It gives it some "attitude" :)
 
From what I know and from what I've researched, this is not uncommon for V-Twin engines. Especially for air cooled engines where the rear cylinder gets less air flow to it. With a liquid cooled V-Twin, I have seen where there are still other factors that can have the same effect, but are not as prominent due to the liquid cooling. I wonder if that is what is going on with mine. Either way, the AutoTune will fix it :)

Question: on the original bodywork below the frunk exposed to the road - did you see any sign of scraping?

i like the look of the bumpskid addition too.

Jerry
 
Question: on the original bodywork below the frunk exposed to the road - did you see any sign of scraping?

i like the look of the bumpskid addition too.

Jerry

Thanks Jerry.

And yes, I did notice scraping / scuffing on the OEM skip plate under the frunk. I am perplexed at to where it came from or how it happened. I have never run anything over or even hit anything on the road for all that matters. Unless it is was from the typical cinders or stones that get kicked up - that is all I can figure.
 
Unsafe Brake Comment

For the sake of clarity, the Spyder brakes are on all three wheels, not just on the rear. You referred to the foot brake pedal as the rear brake and complained that there were no front brakes. That is an old way to phrase the brakes as they apply to the Spyder as there are front and rear brakes. The difference is that there is only one method to engage them, the foot lever.

Now, you called the brakes 'unsafe'. Out of curiosity, do you also install a hand brake lever on your automobiles and trucks, or do you drive those vehicles in an 'unsafe' brake condition, only having the foot pedal to engage all four wheel brakes?

I know I'm nitpicking, but it's a matter of perspective. You learned to brake properly on your two wheelers, as you should have, by applying both the front and rear brakes at the same time. When the front brake is controlled only by the hand lever & the rear brake is controlled only by the foot lever, you have to learn to brake properly by using both controls. On the Spyder, the brakes are linked, so there is no way to brake only the front wheels or the rear wheel short of major modification to the total braking system.

As illustrated in normal driving of cars and trucks, we would never consider it 'unsafe' to have only a foot brake. As such, I would disagree that it is 'unsafe' having the same arrangement on the Spyder.
 
Thanks Jerry.

And yes, I did notice scraping / scuffing on the OEM skip plate under the frunk. I am perplexed at to where it came from or how it happened. I have never run anything over or even hit anything on the road for all that matters. Unless it is was from the typical cinders or stones that get kicked up - that is all I can figure.

My theory - the bike is bottoming out on stock suspension; for sure if you ride 2 up likely if you are more than 210lbs. That puts front down 5.9''; hit a pot hole on one side and you scrape.

You have changed front shocks so heavier springs will keep you out of trouble.

Perhaps others reading this will go look it they have stock suspension. I bet all have scrapped front underside if they have stock shocks

jerry
 
For the sake of clarity, the Spyder brakes are on all three wheels, not just on the rear. You referred to the foot brake pedal as the rear brake and complained that there were no front brakes. That is an old way to phrase the brakes as they apply to the Spyder as there are front and rear brakes. The difference is that there is only one method to engage them, the foot lever.

Now, you called the brakes 'unsafe'. Out of curiosity, do you also install a hand brake lever on your automobiles and trucks, or do you drive those vehicles in an 'unsafe' brake condition, only having the foot pedal to engage all four wheel brakes?

I know I'm nitpicking, but it's a matter of perspective. You learned to brake properly on your two wheelers, as you should have, by applying both the front and rear brakes at the same time. When the front brake is controlled only by the hand lever & the rear brake is controlled only by the foot lever, you have to learn to brake properly by using both controls. On the Spyder, the brakes are linked, so there is no way to brake only the front wheels or the rear wheel short of major modification to the total braking system.

As illustrated in normal driving of cars and trucks, we would never consider it 'unsafe' to have only a foot brake. As such, I would disagree that it is 'unsafe' having the same arrangement on the Spyder.

When I say "unsafe", I am referring to my perspective on how I ride a bike. I am not saying that the rear brake does not work. I am coming off of 2 wheels and my last bike had linked brakes just like the Spyder. With that said, with the motorcycle, I would do 80% of my braking using the front brake lever only - which actuated the front and rear brake calipers. The benefit of having the front brake lever is that you can keep your finger on it and be ready to brake in an instant. You cannot do that with the rear brake as you cannot ride it with your foot. It takes way more time to react with a foot break alone than it does with a hand brake - when your finger is right there on it. Therefore, for myself, having a rear brake only is indeed "unsafe" which is why I am adding the front brake. I think that people who have ridden 2 wheels prior to riding the Spyder will know exactly what I'm talking about.
 
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