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Loud Hindle

Tripod

New member
I bought a used Hindle with real low miles on it and installed it yesterday. I like the bark of it, but here's my problem. I have a SE5 and when it downshifts and blips the throttle, the muffler pops...pretty loud. And winding it out is pretty raucous. I like it but I will be riding through a lot of "noise controlled" cities. They use decibel meters and I think I may have a problem. Has anyone installed a slip in baffle to quite their Hindle? If so, could you give me a brand, model #, source, etc.

Have a safe, sane and sober New Years...well, shoot for two out of three.

Tripod :joke:
 
Check your Spyder Y gaskets; make sure that you have the second ECM update; disconnect the battery for 20 min, reconnect and let her run on idle for 5 min, restart and rYde; readjust the clock. The Hindle is under 78 db. :thumbup:
 
Also check you got it on there correctly and it has a good seal. I have had several issues each time I mess with it and not getting it on correct and leaving a small leak which will cause the popping. RV silcone around it and let it cure and you should be all good. I believe Lamont even took his which did not have the slots, made slots. I have not since it seems be have gotten a good seal since the last time I put it on. Just replaced my gaskets today actually so we should see if I got a good seal or not.
 
Check your Spyder Y gaskets; make sure that you have the second ECM update; disconnect the battery for 20 min, reconnect and let her run on idle for 5 min, restart and rYde; readjust the clock. The Hindle is under 78 db. :thumbup:

Thanks for the advice. Question...the manual isn't very clear about disconnecting the battery, a lot of info on charging it, that's about it. What I need to know is this. If I disconnect the ground side and positive side which do I do first? And, I assume, they go back in the same sequence.
My Spyder has had every update and the slots were cut in the muffler and it was Permatexed with the Copper seal. I'm not hearing any leaks, it just seems loud. One more question...Does the Hindle mellow out with mileage?

Thanks everyone,

Tripod :thumbup:
 
Plus out and plus in. Yes, the Hindle mellow with miles but only after 25-30K. First sign: loose rivets.
 
Thanks for the advice. Question...the manual isn't very clear about disconnecting the battery, a lot of info on charging it, that's about it. What I need to know is this. If I disconnect the ground side and positive side which do I do first? And, I assume, they go back in the same sequence.
My Spyder has had every update and the slots were cut in the muffler and it was Permatexed with the Copper seal. I'm not hearing any leaks, it just seems loud. One more question...Does the Hindle mellow out with mileage?

Thanks everyone,

Tripod :thumbup:
When disconnecting the battery, or any electrical connection, always disconnect the ground first. BTW, tou only need to disconnect one battery cable for this purpose. While you're at it, though, you might want to do both, and clean them before you tighten them again.
 
I think it is time to get a deifinitive answer to this whole battery disconnect thing. From what I have read, as well as heard from some techs, there is no basis for this doing anything. I believe there was a post a while ago from someone with a strong electrical background and that after a review of the schematics saw no reason why disconnecting the battery is any different than turning off the key. Is this all just an illusion or is there a real benefit?
 
I think it is time to get a deifinitive answer to this whole battery disconnect thing. From what I have read, as well as heard from some techs, there is no basis for this doing anything. I believe there was a post a while ago from someone with a strong electrical background and that after a review of the schematics saw no reason why disconnecting the battery is any different than turning off the key. Is this all just an illusion or is there a real benefit?

The directions from BRP specifically say to disconnect the battery and then reconnect and let idle for 15 minutes...this resets the map and conditions the exhaust...I go with what BRP says...don't really care about a lot of opinions from others...
 
Battery

The directions from BRP specifically say to disconnect the battery and then reconnect and let idle for 15 minutes...this resets the map and conditions the exhaust...I go with what BRP says...don't really care about a lot of opinions from others...

My directions said nothing about disconnecting the battery. They did say to let it idle for 15 min. nojoke

Michael:doorag:
 
CPU

I think it is time to get a deifinitive answer to this whole battery disconnect thing. From what I have read, as well as heard from some techs, there is no basis for this doing anything. I believe there was a post a while ago from someone with a strong electrical background and that after a review of the schematics saw no reason why disconnecting the battery is any different than turning off the key. Is this all just an illusion or is there a real benefit?

Talked to the dealer about disconnecting the battery in order to re-set the CPU ect. After talking to his Tech Support contact at BRP, he was told it did nothing to re-set anything, and the action is discouraged unless any maintenance service actually says to do so in the shop manual.

Michael:doorag:
 
Talked to the dealer about disconnecting the battery in order to re-set the CPU ect. After talking to his Tech Support contact at BRP, he was told it did nothing to re-set anything, and the action is discouraged unless any maintenance service actually says to do so in the shop manual. Michael:doorag:
The original map is erased from the eprom and overwritten by the new map. We did that in VW Golf III and IV (R32). :read:
 
I hate to throw fuel on a fire, but even if, and I say if, disconnecting will remap the EEPROM, any remapping during idle conditions will affect the fuel mixture at idle only. All it could possibly provide is a base, which would only affect possible emissions numbers, not part or full throttle performance. Running the Spyder with the new exhaust for 15 minutes (without disconnecting the battery) should be sufficient to do the remapping...alone. Disconnecting, then running a shorter time or not at all, might be effective, but I would be surprised. I am a fossil that understands carbs far better than fuel injection, but I do understand electronic instrumentation and emission controls, and the disconnect/15 minute combination makes little sense. HDX, help me out here, brother. You understand these new-fangled toys.
 
Logical

I hate to throw fuel on a fire, but even if, and I say if, disconnecting will remap the EEPROM, any remapping during idle conditions will affect the fuel mixture at idle only. All it could possibly provide is a base, which would only affect possible emissions numbers, not part or full throttle performance. Running the Spyder with the new exhaust for 15 minutes (without disconnecting the battery) should be sufficient to do the remapping...alone. Disconnecting, then running a shorter time or not at all, might be effective, but I would be surprised. I am a fossil that understands carbs far better than fuel injection, but I do understand electronic instrumentation and emission controls, and the disconnect/15 minute combination makes little sense. HDX, help me out here, brother. You understand these new-fangled toys.

Scotty--Sounds very Logical to me.:thumbup:

Michael:doorag:
 
Dealer

Talked to the dealer about disconnecting the battery in order to re-set the CPU ect. After talking to his Tech Support contact at BRP, he was told it did nothing to re-set anything, and the action is discouraged unless any maintenance service actually says to do so in the shop manual.

Michael:doorag:

I'm not agreeing or disagreeing with the above statement--Just reporting what I was told.
It makes a lot of sense, however, that if the CPU has the ability to "LEARN" that you would want it to learn a normal driving mode, not just idling in the garage.nojoke

Michael:doorag:
 
I've asked the head tech for Spyders about the battery thing and he said it does nothing other than making you feel like you did something. I fell for this at first too but this is a myth and has no basis in fact. Sorry

Ask these guys :D
mythbusters-episodes.jpg
 
Resetting and reflashing the ECM are total different ball game. The last reflashing used by BRP was in the Update #2. JIMO.
 
Also check you got it on there correctly and it has a good seal. I have had several issues each time I mess with it and not getting it on correct and leaving a small leak which will cause the popping. RV silcone around it and let it cure and you should be all good. I believe Lamont even took his which did not have the slots, made slots. I have not since it seems be have gotten a good seal since the last time I put it on. Just replaced my gaskets today actually so we should see if I got a good seal or not.

Resealing with RV silicone cured my popping :thumbup: The first time I let it cure about 30 seconds before I fired it up! The second time I followed the directions on curing time.
 
I hate to throw fuel on a fire, but even if, and I say if, disconnecting will remap the EEPROM, any remapping during idle conditions will affect the fuel mixture at idle only. All it could possibly provide is a base, which would only affect possible emissions numbers, not part or full throttle performance. Running the Spyder with the new exhaust for 15 minutes (without disconnecting the battery) should be sufficient to do the remapping...alone. Disconnecting, then running a shorter time or not at all, might be effective, but I would be surprised. I am a fossil that understands carbs far better than fuel injection, but I do understand electronic instrumentation and emission controls, and the disconnect/15 minute combination makes little sense. HDX, help me out here, brother. You understand these new-fangled toys.

Whoops, I think I got it wrong...I put on the hindle some time ago and might be a little fuzzy on the install...lemme try again...I was instructed by the dealership to disconnect the battery during the install...the directions from BRP were to idle for 15 minutes...
 
Myth Buster

I've asked the head tech for Spyders about the battery thing and he said it does nothing other than making you feel like you did something. I fell for this at first too but this is a myth and has no basis in fact. Sorry

Ask these guys :D
mythbusters-episodes.jpg

Ditto!!!


Michael;)
 
Don't know about disconnecting the battery ? / Can't hurt if you're careful = ground off first.
The 15 minute run time is too / condition / season the exhaust.
Very important if you're using chrome pipes, this will :pray: stop most bluing.
 
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